Ceramic coating brnd new car?

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StPaulJeep

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First off hello to all im a long time lurker, first time poster.

I have a brand new 2017 chrysler 300c it has 700 miles on it sense i bought it.

So my questions i want to put a ceramic coating on it either opti clear coat, or durgloss enviroshield. Do I need to polish the car first, to me it looks good. It had two washes from the dealer through a soft touch unfortunately but i dont really see any swirls or scratches. After that its been washed with foam cannon has durgloss 105 on it.

If i did need to/o4 it is recommended to polish for minor touch up would say a ChemGuys orange pad and megs 205 be good enough, i have the harbor freight dual action and i have never done much paint correction.

If so my plan was to

Wash and clay
Clean off remaing sealent with isopropyl alcohol
Polish with 205
Wash and clean to remove residue/ or use prep cleaner recommended by coating
Ceramic coat car

Also any tricks on applying the coating and is it really worth it. Its not a daily driver just on weekends because my wife hates my jeep lol.

Thanks
 
StPaulJeep said:
First off hello to all im a long time lurker, first time poster.
Click to expand...

Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:

Always great to see lurkers join in the action.


StPaulJeep said:
I have a brand new 2017 chrysler 300c it has 700 miles on it sense i bought it.

So my questions i want to put a ceramic coating on it either opti clear coat, or durgloss enviroshield.

Do I need to polish the car first, to me it looks good. It had two washes from the dealer through a soft touch unfortunately but i dont really see any swirls or scratches. After that its been washed with foam cannon has durgloss 105 on it.
Click to expand...

I would strongly suggest doing at least one machine or even hand polishing step first to ensure the paint is absolutely clean and free of any foreign substances that won't and don't wash or wipe off.

PLUS a light polishing will perfect the paint and amp up the gloss before the coating does its magic. You will appreciate the final results.


StPaulJeep said:
If i did need to/o4 it is recommended to polish for minor touch up would say a ChemGuys orange pad and megs 205 be good enough, i have the harbor freight dual action and i have never done much paint correction.
Click to expand...

Yes that will work.

I'm not a fan of pads with a design to them, flat pads are the way to go. I was one of the first people to use M205. The head chemist personally walked from his office to the Meguiar's garage and hand me a lab sample bottle of M205 which I then used on my friends black 1966 Batmobile. So I've been using it as long and in most cases longer than most people. It's not my favorite fine cut polish but it is a good fine cut polish. It can tend to cause micro-marring on soft paints and there are lots of fine cut polishes that simply don't care what kind of paint you use them on and they finish out great. But for what you're trying to do it should work fine.

What color is your car?



StPaulJeep said:
If so my plan was to

Wash and clay

Clean off remaing sealent with isopropyl alcohol <-- Not necessary and a waste of time and IPA

Polish with 205 <-- This will do what you're trying to do with the IPA and do it better

Wash and clean to remove residue/ or use prep cleaner recommended by coating

Ceramic coat car

Also any tricks on applying the coating and is it really worth it. Its not a daily driver just on weekends because my wife hates my jeep lol.

Thanks
Click to expand...


No matter what coating you go with, my step-by-step directions shared here will apply to just about any coating on the market


Review & How-To: Wolfgang Uber Ceramic Paint Coating


:)
 
Awsome thanks for the welcome, and the awsome info.

I will get some meguiars polishing pads, and give it a shot.

The car is granite metalic.

Again thanks for the response this sight is great.
 
We also suggest polishing the car to prep for a coating, even if it does not appear there are defects, a light machine polish is the only real way to ensure the surface is completely clean (in addition to the proper cleaning and decontamination steps prior to polishing).

Keep in mind, if you are not doing any correction, the polishing process should be quite quick and painless. When we get new cars in that have not been abused (which is unfortunately rather rare), we do a quick polish with a polishing pad and finishing polish (like M205). This consists of just 2-3 relatively quick passes over a larger area than we would normally use when correcting paint. Follow up with a thorough solvent wipe down, and the car is all ready to be coated.

Metallic greys do an excellent job at hiding defects, and are a fabulous color to own. You should have one great looking car when you're all finished.
 
I used enviroshield last week on my Mazda 6 (dark gray) and it looks great even without going through a minor polish beforehand. It also comes with a pre-cleaner polish so you won't need to hit it with IPA.

I did my Mustang (competition orange) about a month ago and while it is way too early to tell longevity, it beads well and seams to clean up easier than just a wax coat. However, I don't know that it worth the effort over waxing a couple of times a year and using spray wax from time to time. I didnt bother polishing it at all because this color just doesn't show marring unless you really look for it.
 
You need to make sure the car is completely decontaminated/cleaned before applying the coating. I'm not sure what everyone here recommends for coating but be careful with who you choose. Some companies seem to be selling snake oil.
 
I am either going to do optimum clearcoat, or duragloss enviroshield. Im leaning duragloss as they have never sold me a product i didnt like.
 
Also, before polish, decontaminate with Iron X or similar product. Even on a new car. It's easy.
You can thank me later.
 
Wouldn't be a bad idea to first perform the "plastic baggie test" immediately after a wash, and then "feel" what condition the paint is in before going further. Mike Phillips explains, and I believe even has a video explaining this test procedure.

You might be surprised.

It's why others have mentioned the possible need of products-processes like Iron-X or Claying first prior to polishing.

Waxes and Sealants are one thing IMO, but Coatings are a bit different, and you want to do your homework well first and not make any decisions in haste.
 
StPaulJeep said:
I am either going to do optimum clearcoat, or duragloss enviroshield. Im leaning duragloss as they have never sold me a product i didnt like.
Click to expand...

If you go with the DG, just use the Squeaky Clean included in the kit for your prep polish, rather than M205.
 
MarkD51 said:
Wouldn't be a bad idea to first perform the "plastic baggie test" immediately after a wash, and then "feel" what condition the paint is in before going further. Mike Phillips explains, and I believe even has a video explaining this test procedure.

You might be surprised.

It's why others have mentioned the possible need of products-processes like Iron-X or Claying first prior to polishing.

Waxes and Sealants are one thing IMO, but Coatings are a bit different, and you want to do your homework well first and not make any decisions in haste.
Click to expand...


I plan on claying the car as i stated , i have never used iron x but for 20 bucks ill pick up some. Is there a ceramic coating you or others prefer, people keep hinting be careful i would think duragloss or optimum would make a good one, but im always open to recommendations.
 
While im all finished took about 5 hours to do everything, iron x, wash, clay, polish with 205 and buff n shine white pad, used duragloss squeaky clean, then applied coating. Thanks to all you guys for the help it turned out awesome, just a matter of finding those little high spots you see in different light seems like after you think you got them all you find one more lol.


I am assuming just use durgloss's quick detailer for wipe downs?


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