Ceri-glass risk?

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AZpolisher15

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I've had the ceriglass and carpro rayon pads for about a year now... I've since read horror stories about making glass worse with these products. Is there inherent risk if I'm not doing correction work but just want to give my windshield a "deep clean"?
 
As long as you're using the CarPro rayon polishing pads you should have no problem. There were some other brand polishing pads that caused some issues. I've used Ceriglass on those pads on several vehicles, no problem.
 
I used it along with the rayon pads. Very pleased with the results by removing much of the pitting. No problems.
 
I tried to remove a scratch from my passenger side window using Ceriglass and CarPro pads, and all I did was swirl up the glass around the scratch. Other's don't have the problem, so it's probably glass dependent. I would recommend a test spot.
 
DaveT435 said:
As long as you're using the CarPro rayon polishing pads you should have no problem. There were some other brand polishing pads that caused some issues. I've used Ceriglass on those pads on several vehicles, no problem.
Click to expand...

^^ this.

I used Ceriglass early on thinking the Griot's glass polishing pads would work well. WRONG, use the CARPRO Brand pads as while the two seem similar, they perform completely different.
 
Harpolith said:
I've had the ceriglass and carpro rayon pads for about a year now...

I've since read horror stories about making glass worse with these products.

Is there inherent risk if I'm not doing correction work but just want to give my windshield a "deep clean"?
Click to expand...


There shouldn't be but we've all heard of Murphy's Law.


Here's what I recommend,


1: Only use a "System Approach"

This means if the company that sells the polish also sells matching pads, then get both and use the "system".



2: NEVER start on glass that the driver looks through.

Always test on the passenger side of the windshield or on a side or back window. Just like doing a Test Spot on car paint, do a test section on the glass of the vehicle you want to do the glass polishing to.

Make sure your selection of,

  • Product
  • Pads
  • Tools
  • Technique


will work to make one small area look GREAT before buffing out all the glass.


Here's one of my articles on glass polishing,


Glass polishing - How to remove scratches in glass


In the picture below you will see the pads, products and tools you need to remove scratches from glass.

Glass is very hard and in order to abrade it in a way to remove scratches without at the same time instilling scratches you need a polish specifically made for glass that contain

Cerium Oxide


Cerium_Oxide_Glass_Polishing_Tools.jpg





And note the FIRST paragraph under the step-by-step directions...


IMPORTANT
Never start by working on the glass in front of the driver field of view. Just in case something goes wrong you don't want to impair the view of the driver.


Full article with lots of pics and info here,

Glass polishing - How to remove scratches in glass


Also, scroll down the page and look for the technique I came up with and share called,


The Buddy System


:)
 
I'm not sure I can be of help here but I have used Ceriglass and CP Rayon pads on a pals Kia MPV glass which was badly water etched all round with a PC24 and the results were less than satisfactory. I then pulled the pad off the PC and stuck it onto the PE-14 rotary and that seemed to do the trick. My experience with glass correction and in particular Ceriglass and Rayon pads are they prefer the circular or rotary type polishers, just be careful to tape up rubbers around the glass.
 
Ronin47 said:
I'm not sure I can be of help here but I have used Ceriglass and CP Rayon pads on a pals Kia MPV glass which was badly water etched all round with a PC24 and the results were less than satisfactory.
Click to expand...


When you say,


Ronin47 said:
the results were less than satisfactory
Click to expand...


1: Was it because the process with the PC was too slow?

Or


2: Was it because the process with the PC put scratches into the glass the same time you were trying to remove defects?



:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
When you say,





1: Was it because the process with the PC was too slow?

Or


2: Was it because the process with the PC put scratches into the glass the same time you were trying to remove defects?



:)
Click to expand...


Oh yes, really good question. The PC was slow in removing defects or barely making a dent. The rotary on the otherhand worked beautifully. I should have been more comprehensive in my response. I haven't had Ceriglass and Rayon pads instill scratches ever, quite possible the glass wasn't clean or contaminated which resulted in the machine action scratching, a test spot first always.
 
Ronin47 said:
Oh yes, really good question. The PC was slow in removing defects or barely making a dent.
Click to expand...


Gotcha...

Just to note, when I wrote my article showing how to do it with a PC it was because I know a LOT of people don't own a rotary buffer but since the late 1980s millions of Porter Cables have been sold plus all the copies of the PC.

So while I normally use a rotary buffer because it's a lot more powerful and this shows up as "speed" to you and I, I purposefully tested using a Porter Cable to see

If it could be done

And "yes" it can be done. This opens the door to millions of people being able to polish out scratches from glass using the tool already in their garage.


Then in my how-to article here,


Glass polishing - How to remove scratches in glass


I included this comment....

Mike Phillips said:
My comment....
 You can remove scratches out of glass using either a rotary buffer or a dual action polisher like the Porter Cable type. With the dual action polisher it will take a little longer but in my opinion the glass polishing process is easier on you when using a dual action polisher versus using a rotary buffer.
Click to expand...


I agree any free spinning orbital will be slower than a rotary buffer but lots of people don't own a rotary buffer but they do own a,

PC
Meguiar's G100
Meguiar's G110
Griot's 6" DA
DAS 6
HF

Etc. etc. etc.

So if they don't mind taking more time they too can polish glass - but "yes" it will be slower.


:)
 
Thanks for all the advice, guys. The System Approach it is. I've got the ceriglass and the carpro pads. I'll be diving in with a GG6. Being my first time, Deep Cleaning is my goal, rather than correction. I'll get a technique dialed in and maybe "dig deeper" next time. We'll see how it goes! Thanks again.
 
Harpolith said:
Thanks for all the advice, guys. The System Approach it is. I've got the ceriglass and the carpro pads. I'll be diving in with a GG6. Being my first time, Deep Cleaning is my goal, rather than correction. I'll get a technique dialed in and maybe "dig deeper" next time. We'll see how it goes! Thanks again.
Click to expand...
If your not removing defects (real messy) and just want to deep clean, try Duragloss Nu Glass.
 
I used it on a 50k truck of mine brand new with the wrong pad. It left weird marring in the windshield.

I admit I wasnt educated enough and just dove in feet first...
 
JeffM said:
I used it on a 50k truck of mine brand new with the wrong pad. It left weird marring in the windshield.

I admit I wasnt educated enough and just dove in feet first...
Click to expand...

Get the right pad (Car Pro) and re-do it.
 
Harpolith said:
Thanks for all the advice, guys. The System Approach it is. I've got the ceriglass and the carpro pads. I'll be diving in with a GG6. Being my first time, Deep Cleaning is my goal, rather than correction. I'll get a technique dialed in and maybe "dig deeper" next time. We'll see how it goes! Thanks again.
Click to expand...

If you're just going to use Ceriglass to clean, use a stiff-arse yellow or gray pad. THat's my combo for extremely etched in water spots. I also used them to fix the marring I caused. Got it about 80% corrected, then hit it with the CarPro ones to fix it the rest of the way.
 
I bought both the CarPro Rayon and LC glass cutting pad, should I not use the LC one? Thanks.
 
AZpolisher15 said:
I've had the ceriglass and carpro rayon pads for about a year now... I've since read horror stories about making glass worse with these products. Is there inherent risk if I'm not doing correction work but just want to give my windshield a "deep clean"?
Click to expand...
I used it 1X recently but I never read any of that stuff? I used it very heavy (had to) to make it work. I used the 6" griots glass pads. I used the flex 3401 on speeds 1-3 i think. Treated it like a polish except that I did 1/2 the windshield as 1 section.

It came out good I don't notice a huge difference but it definitely got it clean. I would do it again.
 
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