Clay and paint prep? What are the steps for sealing a new Toyota highlander

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Alpha123

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Hi all. New here. Been doing some research (too much) and figured I should just ask the experts.

Have a new 2013 Highlander and I want to put a paint sealant for the Chicago winter. Im getting ready to place an order and here's what I'm thinking:

1. Wash using good soap
2. Griot's paint prep to remove wax (dealership tells me the cars come off the truck already waxed?)
3. Wolfgang poly clay bar and lube (or Maguiars clay kit)
4. Wash again?
5. Wolfgang deep gloss sealant 3.0

The question is do i really need to do the paint prep or strip the old wax if the car is new?

Fyi...Doing this all by hand for now as I don't have a DA tool at the moment.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
 
Your game plan is a good and the truck may or may not be wax i would still strip whatever up there by using a car soap like Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss Concentrated Car Wash why because it can strip wax and be use as a maintenance wash Wolfgang and megastars clay bars are the same just might be different colors
 
Thanks for the info. So I can strip with chem guys before and then use it after the sealant? Basically it will strip top coat wax (if I put one on later) but not sealant right?
 
If you want to strip wax or any last step products off the paint work use one ounce of CG Citrus Wash & Gloss with one gallon of water if your trying to preserve the wax or sealant then use one ounce of CG citrus was with three or four gallons of water.
 
If you got the Highlander new I doubt they waxed it. New cars usually have white vinyl applied to the horizontal surfaces and the sides left open to the air. Once they hit the lot some dealers will remove them and wash the cars. By the time they hit the lots after cargo they are filthy. Washed yes wax doubt it. Get them in and on the lot yesterday. So the clay will get the embedded dirt out.
Spray some water on it. Clean unwaxed paint will sheet with minor beading. A waxed car will bead like crazy.
You game plan sounds good. Citrus Wash and Gloss may not be enough to strip anything they put on the car, but your game plan sounds good.
Use two bucket method with Grit Guards. Get quality microfiber towels and appilicator pads and your good to go.
New car I would pull the rims and tires off scrub them and seal them it will save you headaches in the future trying to get baked on road grime and brake dust off
 
Member PiPUK has pretty much shown that using almost any wash product will not strip existing LSPs. See this thread http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/66896-lsp-stripping.html If you want to remove any existing LSPs you will need something like Duragloss Squeaky Clean or the new DP Coating Prep, or PrepSol, Griots Paint Prep etc, etc---basically a product designed to remove anything on the paint and leave nothing behind.

Your steps look good, but you might want to add an IronX treatment after the wash and Paint Prep and before claying. Depending on how much contamination you may not need to clay at all or maybe just a light clay.

I use Optimum ONR at detail spray dilution as my clay lube and then just dry the surface--no need to rewash.
 
I doubt they come off the truck waxed because I doubt the factory applies any. However, where I work, they do apply wax to vehicles and even polish them if necessary, so just start with a strip wash to be safe.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. So based on the replies I've adjusted my steps.

Added info: the color of the vehicle is blizzard pearl.

1. Wash with chemical guys wash and gloss diluted
2. Apply iron X
3. Griot's paint prep to remove wax
4. Wolfgang poly clay bar and lube (or Maguiars clay kit)
5. Wolfgang deep gloss sealant 3.0
6. Wax

Questions:
1. Is this overkill? Should I remove any steps?
2. What kind of wax is suggested to top WGDGS?
3. Do I have to apply the wax immediately or can I do a week later?
 
Alpha123 said:
Thanks for the feedback guys. So based on the replies I've adjusted my steps.

Added info: the color of the vehicle is blizzard pearl.

1. Wash with chemical guys wash and gloss diluted
2. Apply iron X
3. Griot's paint prep to remove wax
4. Wolfgang poly clay bar and lube (or Maguiars clay kit)
5. Wolfgang deep gloss sealant 3.0
6. Wax

Questions:
1. Is this overkill? Should I remove any steps?
2. What kind of wax is suggested to top WGDGS?
3. Do I have to apply the wax immediately or can I do a week later?
Click to expand...
I think you'll be better off with this plan:

1) Wash with your favorite car wash soap, two-bucket method.
2) Iron-X paste
3) Nanoskin Autoscrub Fine grade (sponge, mitt or towel - your choice)
4) Apply Opti-Coat 2.0 or DP Paint Coating.

This may be quicker, and you will not have to worry about applying a sealant at least 2 years. The paint coatings are semi-permanent and will take the place of a sealant or wax.
 
Your game plan is perfect , what kind of wax you want to try paste wax or liquid wax you can apply a wax a week later if you like but make the paint work mut be clean
 
Alpha123 said:
1. Wash with chemical guys wash and gloss diluted
2. Apply iron X
3. Griot's paint prep to remove wax
4. Wolfgang poly clay bar and lube (or Maguiars clay kit)
5. Wolfgang deep gloss sealant 3.0
6. Wax
Click to expand...

After washing use the Griots Paint Prep to remove old LSP so the IronX can get at the paint then the IronX then light claying if needed.

Most sealants need 12 hours to cure before adding wax so you can apply the wax anytime after that.

Just something to think about: Megs ULW is a sealant that has a very carnuba look to it and lasts a long time--you can get it here or at Walmart. I use HD Poxy -- a sealant/Montan wax hybrid for the protection of a sealant and wax look in one step.
 
Great info guys. Thanks for the feedback. Now I can feel confident in placing my order for these products.
 
So I finally got this done. Thanks for all the tips. It was nice to know I had some the best products available to do this job. I think it turned out great although pearl white isn't exactly a satisfying color for this type of project. At the same time, the color made it hard to mess up. I have a few follow up questions.

Recap of what I did and the scenario:

2013 highlander with 1000 miles. Pearl white. No garage. Chicago winters.

1. Washed with concentrated chem guys wash and gloss. 1 oz to 1 gallon. The hood completely sheeted water so I think it did a pretty good job of stripping. Consequently, I skipped the Griot's paint prep.

2. After the wash, immediately applied iron x all over. Let it sit 5 minutes. Power rinse.

3. Dried car

4. Applied Maguiars smooth finish clay kit (came with the quick detailer spray (clay lube).

5. Applied Wolfgang deep gloss 3.0 with a griot's 6" random orbital ..orange polish pad...on speed setting 3.

6. Buffed with micro fiber towel.

Questions:
1. When I applied the WGDG I meant to use the red wax pad but grabbed the orange polish pad instead. Is the difference worth worrying about?

2. When I used the clay it seemed to work well. Got the little specs off the paint and made it really smooth..I did the plastic bag test. I'm wondering though if it felt so smooth because of the quick detail wax/lube?

3. I'm still curing the WGDG. Can I wash again (just wash) next weekend and apply Griots best of show wax (since I already have some). Or is there a better top coat to consider?

Any feedback is appreciated.
 
You didnt do much harm by picking up orange pad instead of red one only thing you did was maybe brighten the paintwork or took the lightest swirls away if any clay lube or quick detail do make paint smooth but if the paint is contamenated in anyway you will still be able to feel little bumps with your hands or baggie test next weekend you can wash your truck and if you want put a wax if you like
 
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