Clay bar use question ?

[Floridian Mustang]

I have a question about clay bar use that i'm sure most people could answer. I have used it before in the olden days when I worked in a body shop for over spray. and also when I reconditioned cars at a dealership. i hear they say that it actually takes a small amount to clear coat off to. I saw a show on velocity about it helping with hard water. I do have some hard water spots on my trunk and Hood due to the Florida heat and showers in the summer. My question is should I shy away from using it too much? or is the amount of clear coat it takes off insignificant? Should I only do it once a year or is that even too much.

 

[LSNAutoDetailingLSNAutoDetailing is verified member.]

Yes and no... Clay comes in different grades. Fine/Med/etc... and is used to remove "above bonded contaminants". As you mentioned you used clay to remove overspray, which would be micro-fine particles bonded to the clear coat. The medium or harder clay's tend to have an abrasive, but will leave marring, thus you will more than likely have to polish the area.

In your case, water spots, there are three types:
3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III

In your case, I would determine what type of water spot you have and start with least aggressive (a spot remover) such as Car Pro's Spotless, then move up from there to a more aggressive approach, such as DA with a polish and or compound and match the appropriate pads as well.

 

[Goonie75]

Yes and no... Clay comes in different grades. Fine/Med/etc... and is used to remove "above bonded contaminants". As you mentioned you used clay to remove overspray, which would be micro-fine particles bonded to the clear coat. The medium or harder clay's tend to have an abrasive, but will leave marring, thus you will more than likely have to polish the area.

In your case, water spots, there are three types:
3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III

In your case, I would determine what type of water spot you have and start with least aggressive (a spot remover) such as Car Pro's Spotless, then move up from there to a more aggressive approach, such as DA with a polish and or compound and match the appropriate pads as well.

Hey LSN... can you speak real quick to the other part of that question as to clay bar removing clear coat? and if so would that that amount depend on the 'level of clay bar' used?... or does it not really remove clear coat and one is fine to clay bar once or twice a year?...

thanks

 

[Floridian Mustang]

Yes and no... Clay comes in different grades. Fine/Med/etc... and is used to remove "above bonded contaminants". As you mentioned you used clay to remove overspray, which would be micro-fine particles bonded to the clear coat. The medium or harder clay's tend to have an abrasive, but will leave marring, thus you will more than likely have to polish the area.

In your case, water spots, there are three types:
3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III

In your case, I would determine what type of water spot you have and start with least aggressive (a spot remover) such as Car Pro's Spotless, then move up from there to a more aggressive approach, such as DA with a polish and or compound and match the appropriate pads as well.

Actually the bar I use is like a plastic. you spray the panel down and use the plastic side down to wipe the panel. its not actually clay. I guess like a neoprene material.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

i hear they say that it actually takes a small amount to clear coat off to.

That does not sound accurate to me.

Clay and clay substitutes are supposed to be rubbed over the surface with a lubricant. When used this way the ABRADE off the offending contaminants ON the surface, they don't remove the surface.

It's possible clay or a clay substitute could mar or scratch paint if dirty, contaminated or used carelessly, and scratches are "voids" in the paint so in this context they would "remove" paint in practical use they are not "paint removers".

I saw a show on velocity about it helping with hard water. I do have some hard water spots on my trunk and Hood due to the Florida heat and showers in the summer.

Hard water is a term thrown around VERY LOOSELY. Technically what it means is water with dissolved MINERALS in it. Then when this "hard water" dries on a surface, (like car paint), the water evaporates and leaves behind the minerals which technically would be sitting ON TOP of the paint.

IF the water dries and it leaves an imprint ring or a crater etching, then this wasn't caused by the minerals but by other CORROSIVE substances in the water here on Earth.


Make sense?

Then if this is the case, that is you're are seeing imprint rings or crater etchings, then rubbing a clay bar or a clay substitute like a Nanoskin clay block, towel, wash mitt or pad, over the paint will not remove these types of defects. You must use a comound, polish or cleaner/wax and ABRADE the paint surface to level it to make these types of spots or defects visually and physically disappear.


Make sense?

Actually the bar I use is like a plastic. you spray the panel down and use the plastic side down to wipe the panel. its not actually clay. I guess like a neoprene material.

Here's an example of a clay substitute...

Sounds like you're going to need to machine polish to remove these spots.

 

[Floridian Mustang]

That does not sound accurate to me.

Clay and clay substitutes are supposed to be rubbed over the surface with a lubricant. When used this way the ABRADE off the offending contaminants ON the surface, they don't remove the surface.

It's possible clay or a clay substitute could mar or scratch paint if dirty, contaminated or used carelessly, and scratches are "voids" in the paint so in this context they would "remove" paint in practical use they are not "paint removers".




Hard water is a term thrown around VERY LOOSELY. Technically what it means is water with dissolved MINERALS in it. Then when this "hard water" dries on a surface, (like car paint), the water evaporates and leaves behind the minerals which technically would be sitting ON TOP of the paint.

IF the water dries and it leaves an imprint ring or a crater etching, then this wasn't caused by the minerals but by other CORROSIVE substances in the water here on Earth.


Make sense?

Then if this is the case, that is you're are seeing imprint rings or crater etchings, then rubbing a clay bar or a clay substitute like a Nanoskin clay block, towel, wash mitt or pad, over the paint will not remove these types of defects. You must use a comound, polish or cleaner/wax and ABRADE the paint surface to level it to make these types of spots or defects visually and physically disappear.


Make sense?





Here's an example of a clay substitute...

Sounds like you're going to need to machine polish to remove these spots.

Thank you so much for your imput. So I can clay away as much as I want and not worry about thinning out my clear coat.

 

[SWETM]

As long as you use great quality clay or clay alternatives and also great clay lubrication. When you have done correction to get those etching spots away. I throw in some products that are as safe as possible. Then it's important to don't use the same clay more than 2-3 times depending on the amount of contaminants you get off. The clay lube I link to is one of the best lubricant you can find which is dodo juice born to be slippy concentrate. It's gets economic also when buying the concentrate. Then use the right aggressive of the clay. From aggressive to ultra fine clay. Sonüs and Pinnacle has some great ultra fine clay. And 3M and Meguiars has some great aggressive grade clay. Just have you eyes on the clay or clay alternatives to fold or clean it regualary when they pic up contaminants. And keep the surface well lubricated.

Dodo Juice Born Slippy Clay Lubricant Concentrate, born slippy clay lube, detailing clay lubricant, clay lube concentrate

Pinnacle?s Ultra Poly Clay is the single finest clay composition available today. Use auto Detailing clay to deep clean car paint, glass and chrome.

Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay, clay bars, auto clay, paint cleaning bar

Aggressive clay.

3M Perfect-It III Cleaner Clay, 3m 38070, a paint-cleaning detailing clay that grabs foreign particles as it glides across the paint.

Meguiars Professional Detailing Clay Aggressive - C2100

If you can get to the water spots early a QD or a water spot remover can be the least aggressive way to take care of them.

 

[fightnews]

That does not sound accurate to me.

Clay and clay substitutes are supposed to be rubbed over the surface with a lubricant. When used this way the ABRADE off the offending contaminants ON the surface, they don't remove the surface.

It's possible clay or a clay substitute could mar or scratch paint if dirty, contaminated or used carelessly, and scratches are "voids" in the paint so in this context they would "remove" paint in practical use they are not "paint removers".




Hard water is a term thrown around VERY LOOSELY. Technically what it means is water with dissolved MINERALS in it. Then when this "hard water" dries on a surface, (like car paint), the water evaporates and leaves behind the minerals which technically would be sitting ON TOP of the paint.

IF the water dries and it leaves an imprint ring or a crater etching, then this wasn't caused by the minerals but by other CORROSIVE substances in the water here on Earth.


Make sense?

Then if this is the case, that is you're are seeing imprint rings or crater etchings, then rubbing a clay bar or a clay substitute like a Nanoskin clay block, towel, wash mitt or pad, over the paint will not remove these types of defects. You must use a comound, polish or cleaner/wax and ABRADE the paint surface to level it to make these types of spots or defects visually and physically disappear.


Make sense?





Here's an example of a clay substitute...

Sounds like you're going to need to machine polish to remove these spots.

Ive used a lot of diffrent extra fine clays and they all seem to marr my paint.

 

[Floridian Mustang]

As long as you use great quality clay or clay alternatives and also great clay lubrication. When you have done correction to get those etching spots away. I throw in some products that are as safe as possible. Then it's important to don't use the same clay more than 2-3 times depending on the amount of contaminants you get off. The clay lube I link to is one of the best lubricant you can find which is dodo juice born to be slippy concentrate. It's gets economic also when buying the concentrate. Then use the right aggressive of the clay. From aggressive to ultra fine clay. Sonüs and Pinnacle has some great ultra fine clay. And 3M and Meguiars has some great aggressive grade clay. Just have you eyes on the clay or clay alternatives to fold or clean it regualary when they pic up contaminants. And keep the surface well lubricated.

Dodo Juice Born Slippy Clay Lubricant Concentrate, born slippy clay lube, detailing clay lubricant, clay lube concentrate

Pinnacle?s Ultra Poly Clay is the single finest clay composition available today. Use auto Detailing clay to deep clean car paint, glass and chrome.

Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay, clay bars, auto clay, paint cleaning bar

Aggressive clay.

3M Perfect-It III Cleaner Clay, 3m 38070, a paint-cleaning detailing clay that grabs foreign particles as it glides across the paint.

Meguiars Professional Detailing Clay Aggressive - C2100

If you can get to the water spots early a QD or a water spot remover can be the least aggressive way to take care of them.

Thank You