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I want to clay my car before winter sets in and was wondering if I am going to clay it do I need to use an iron remover. I thought that is what claying was for.
I used an iron remover last week on my fathers white rogue it was littered with these little rust spots which the iron remover turned purple and most where rinsed off but a few days prior to that i just used the clay, it took twice as long to get all the little rust spots off with clay only.
I detailed the car in sections. It was my first real good experience with an iron remover on paint work.
I found the iron remover really helped to remove this light looking rust spots. I assume its iron or something. T
They were all over certain sections of the car. I used a fine clay and they would come off relatively quickly but when i broke out the iron remover it certainty got rid of a lot of the little spots before i put the clay back on the paint.
I used iron remover on my blue car few times before and i never seen a difference only wheels.
Did you notice a difference with the iron remover in the sections you used the clay beforehand? Was there still iron that needed removing? Or had the clay pretty much removed it all?
I'm sensing you have a dog in this fight?![]()
Not at all, but it’s making me want to do some 50/50 tests to see whether the claybar can do everything the iron remover can do.
Not at all, but it’s making me want to do some 50/50 tests to see whether the claybar can do everything the iron remover can do.
I'd be interested in the results if you ever go ahead with that test.
Ok so here I’ll be testing claybar vs. iron remover to see if the claybar can do everything the iron remover can do. Lets begin.
1st I get the panel prepped by giving it a quick wash. Tape it off, now I’m ready to begin claying the left side of the hood.
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I want to point out that this was a very easy claying. So much so that I thought it would render this test a dud. This is what the claybar looked like afterwards.
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Ok, so I remove the tape and spray down the entire hood with Meguiars Ultimate Wheel Cleaner.
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After 1 min.
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After 4 min.
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After 5 min.
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Just to make sure it wasn’t a fluke, I washed the entire rear of the vehicle, and clayed only the left side. This time there was a significant amount of contaminants on the claybar.
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Sprayed the entire panel with iron remover.
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5min. later.
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Notice the difference in the left side of the emblem where I had clayed.
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Conclusion: Are iron removers overrated? I’d say they are. It could be argued that they’re pointless if the claybar is going to do what it does and more.. It’s not as if an iron remover can do what the claybar can do.
Btw, this test cost me $14 dollars. I feel like I could’ve just saved the money and simply used my claybar.
I think you should buy more iron removers lol I don't think we overly care about your "tests".
I seen them work with my own eyes, it was difficult to clay a 3 year old car, with the iron remover it helped considerably. I don't need no "tests" or "experts" to tell me otherwise.
So yeah you have a dog in this fight.
Ok so before the next bucket wash, I decided to try the DUB Wheel Cleaner on the paint again in order to see if there was any more iron particles in the paint, and also to see if the whole color changing deal was just for looks... As we can see it didn’t change colors the 2nd time around. No gimmicks. The DUB did a thorough job the 1st time around.
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Now lets have a close look at this paint... After 2 washes, 2 iron decontaminations, and an intensive claying with a med. grade claymitt, this is what it looked like.
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Pretty crazy huh?
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So at this point I realized the claymitt was nowhere near as effective as I thought for all the time I spent with it on the paint... I decided to use the claybar for round 2.
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After 4 times thoroughly going over it with the claybar... The paint was finally decontaminated. This was among the dirtiest paint I’ve ever seen.
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The hood is now fully prepped for polishing. That’s not clay marring, that’s just plain oxidation.
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Here’s a look at the roof, fully decontaminated. No reflections. I couldn’t see the reflection of sun or my super bright led flashlight on any of the horizontal panels. This is as bad as paint can get!
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Can it be restored? Lets try some Megs D300 w/Lake Country HDO Microfiber Cutting Pad.
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Here’s a 50/50 shot after 1 round of D300, followed by 1 round of Megs M205.
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I did the other half of the hood with Griots Fast Correcting Cream and a Lake Country Blue HDO Foam Cutting Pad and followed it up with M205 and once I was done it went from this...
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To this!![]()
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Before.
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After.
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I restored the shine all around..
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Including the taillights.
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Detailed every last bit, including the keyholes.
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I detailed underneath the door handles, all the rubber trim, inside the trunk, door jambs, I bought new license plate trims, and applied new emblems..
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I also got brand new window pillars.
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All done. I’m happy.
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Thanks for checking it out.
I'd be interested in the results if you ever go ahead with that test.
Without ever doing such a test here is how I think it will turn out... Like the OP has said, I think using an iron remover first will make the claying step easier/faster (assuming there is iron contamination to begin with). But if you were to only clay the car (no iron remover), the end result would be the same, although it will be more work and time for the clay process.
Another way of looking at it... As long as you do a thorough job during the claying process step, you can skip the iron remover altogether. The end result will be the same.
Done.
Thanks for the effort. And the 14 bucks![]()
So yeah you have a dog in this fight.