Clear Bra Correction

[crxman2010]

I put opti-coat over my clear bra in hopes of being able to polish the swirls out of the opti-coat later instead of looking at the swirls in the plastic. But what do you guys do when you have a car with a swirled clear bra? I was told never to use polish on these so I am drawing a blank.

I saw reference to correcting the clear bra in:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-turbo-correction-immaculate-reflections.html
but he never said how he did.

 

[crxman2010]

Bump for beautiful weather.

 

[Blk5.0]

I would like to know as well

 

[Mike lambert]

I have never had a problem with polishing 3m film,using m205 on a finishing pad. I would recommend calling the film company

 

[FUNX650]

Here's some related posts...More to found by typing clear bra into this Forum's search function.

@Twister: No, XPel is not a 3m company. YET
They suggested a "least aggressive" method for your stain removal. I'm glad it worked for you. It has worked for me on occasion, also.

Quote:
The best solution is going to be to use 3M Perfect -It part# 06064 Machine Polish, with the coordinating buffing pad part# 05738. #Use a an Orbital buffer at the lowest speed and then gradually progress up as needed. #This must be done very carefully so that you don't burn through the film. #I usually hit the area a few times for about 15-30 seconds each time. #If this doesn't work the stain might have seeped through the pores under the top coat and could be perminent.

@CrownCoat: All PPF manufacturers recommend Premier Protection Films International's PF-1 T.T.R. for removing "scuffs". It's the best, IMO.
If so interested for future usage:
510.406.1500
510.623.1308
sales@premiermobilegroup (add a .com)

I've also had success with 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material (3M # 05928) on a foam polishing pad, speed 2-3 on the PC, with very light pressure. Make sure to not linger more than 15-20 seconds on any area. You can always go back if needed..don't want to overheat the PPF. Apply a clear sealant when finished.

Sometimes "scuffs" and other blemishes just won't come out. Relay the message to the customer that solace can be taken that the underlying paint has not been compromised, Afterall, another piece of PPF is less costly than a re-spray...moreso than the painter's "Corvette Tax" that he undoubtedly would impose.

Hope this helps some.

Bob

@CrownKote:

First:
Chris, sorry about the earlier reply where I mispelled your avatar.
Second:
The reason I added this statement in my post (#4 of your thread).....

"Sometimes "scuffs" and other blemishes just won't come out. Relay the message to the customer that solace can be taken that the underlying paint has not been compromised, Afterall, another piece of PPF is less costly than a re-spray...moreso than the painter's "Corvette Tax" that he undoubtedly would impose".

...was to share some information regarding the removal process (buffing) of the PPF. To me, it is similar to buffing a bc/cc paint's top-coating in the cautions one must take.

There are three layers to PPF: The "protective polyurethane" top-coating; the middle layer of polyurethane; and the lower layer of adhesive baking.

There are also two versions of PPF. One version has a "protective" PU top-coating of an aliphatic polyurethane. The other version has a "protective" aromatic polyurethane top-coating.
Long story short: Aliphatic PU is non-yellowing; has the best UV/color stability and weathering protection; excellent chemical resistance; and resists staining. It is the best for exterior applications. Aromatic PU, although excellent in some of the above categories, is more susceptible to yellowing, less UV/color stability, and is recommended for indoor/underground applications. The PPF with the aliphatic PU top-coating is, of course, more expensive. It is also the best for automotive purposes.

Herein lies the comparison I make between PPF's top-coatings and clear-coat top-coated paint. We are told by OEMs, and others, to not remove more than .5 mils total of 2-2.5 mils of this clear-coat paint's top-coat because there is where the majority of the UV protection/inhibitors lay. With PPF the "protective" top-coating layer, that has the UV protection and other inhibitors, is usually only between .3 and .5 mils thick.

To me, this would mean an adjustment in ones buffing process thinking. Whereas removal of .5 or less mils from the clear-coat may be acceptible, removal of that same amount of the PPF's "protective" PU top-coating may make the PPF look good now, but would surely increase the possibility for the PPF to start yellowing and "fail" prematurely....and, thusly, would void any warranties.

Note: There are some blemishes on sections of my PPF that I'm going to live with until the warranty expires.....I put it on to better enjoy my ride without so many worries of paint blemishes occuring...We have FUN in it!!!

Just some thoughts I had regarding PPF.

Bob


Edit:

Chris...Sorry you had no luck....If you want to, relay the above message to your customer. It may help his thinking process on this matter. I bet you probably enjoy him being a customer. I'd also bet he wants you as his detailer!

Also:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...96-cquartz-not-compatible-xpel-clear-bra.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...65-clear-bra-installed-how-remove-swirls.html

Hope these articles help some.



Bob

 

[pjp98z]

The method for removing swirls from clearbra, largely depends on the brand/composition of the film, but most can be buffed. I would call the manufacturer direct to make sure that you get the best info.

Typically, our company has used the 3M Perfect-It Machine Polish (part number 06064) used with their color coded buffing pad (Part number 05738). Not only will it take out any scratch or stain on PPF, it's about as foolproof as I have ever seen on paint.

If you really want to go the extra mile, follow that with 3M Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish (part number 06068) used with the blue pad (part number 05733). This stuff just puts the finishing touch on and makes the gloss (on paint or PPF) look incredibly deep and swirl free.

On a related note, try a search for "self healing paint protection film" on Google or YouTube. There some pretty nifty new technology out there in films.