Clear coat after wetsanding

Rsurfer

Rsurfer

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Is shooting clear after wetsanding and polishing neccessary? On smaller rock chips, I don't, but on longer and bigger repairs I alway's shoot 3 coats of clear. Most detailer's dont take this extra step, but I think it's neccessary to get a good protected finish. What's your thoughts?
 
I have no clue as to what you are saying, but I am interested. I have painted cars and never have shooted clear after wetsanding?
 
LincolnZephyr2006 said:
I have no clue as to what you are saying, but I am interested. I have painted cars and never have shooted clear after wetsanding?
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Sorry, I'm speaking about using oem touch up paint and then wetsanding. I feel the paint is naked and should have clear over it to protect it. Or, is a sealant enough protection?
 
Well... as far as oem touch up paints go... they obviously can be applied as "one-step" since there is gloss to it and not just a "base coat" of paint. Although, I have seen auto parts stores sell clearcoat in a touch-up bottle, but I would think it defeats the purpose of putting it on the already gloss oem paint. IMO, I would say that it wouldn't hurt to put clear on it to give it additional protection as long as the "dab" of the clear does not "rise" above the factory clear on the car. Is this what you mean?
 
LincolnZephyr2006 said:
Well... as far as oem touch up paints go... they obviously can be applied as "one-step" since there is gloss to it and not just a "base coat" of paint. Although, I have seen auto parts stores sell clearcoat in a touch-up bottle, but I would think it defeats the purpose of putting it on the already gloss oem paint. IMO, I would say that it wouldn't hurt to put clear on it to give it additional protection as long as the "dab" of the clear does not "rise" above the factory clear on the car. Is this what you mean?
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What I'm saying is that gloss in touch up paint doesn't take the place of several coats of clear coat. After applying touch up paint to a deep scratch or deep chip with several coats to build up the area. Then wet sand smooth and polish out. I use 3 coats of rattle can clear to build back the clear lost to wetsanding the area. The taped off area is now higher than the surrounding area and needs to be wetsanded again to level off. Polished and sealed or waxed. My question is, am I over doing it by applying clear coat or is just touchup paint, wetsand, polish and seal/wax enough. IMO if you want to do a good job shooting clear is a must. Just wanted to get other opinions especially Mike P.
 
I understand. As for my opinion then, I would definitley say that putting clear over would have more durability than just putting alone the OEM. Hey, as long as it looks subtle and hard to look for, I would say keep on doing what you are doing. I wouldn't necessarily say that your over doing it since you have an extra added layer of protection, especially when it comes to your own car. Just think... you are going to wetsand either way of applying the OEM and/or added clear, so what you are doing is added layer of protection for better durability IMO.
 
Rsurfer,

Can you tell me where one can buy some "rattle can" clearcoat? I've been looking for some for a correction project I have coming up in a week or so. I've checked PepBoys, Home Depot, Ace - nothing yet. I think your process is logical. 3 coats might be a little more than I was planning but this would depend on how long each coat takes to dry for wetsanding purposes and how "thick" each coat is. I'll be doing a similar project with a similar process. I would have thought a coat or two of clear would accomplish the protection you are after as the "paint" is making up most of the depth. Maybe that is not enough clear to wetsand again. Anyway, I'll be finding out myself soon as I've not ever done it before.

I appreciate your help,

Martin
 
mfortier said:
Rsurfer,

Can you tell me where one can buy some "rattle can" clearcoat? I've been looking for some for a correction project I have coming up in a week or so. I've checked PepBoys, Home Depot, Ace - nothing yet. I think your process is logical. 3 coats might be a little more than I was planning but this would depend on how long each coat takes to dry for wetsanding purposes and how "thick" each coat is. I'll be doing a similar project with a similar process. I would have thought a coat or two of clear would accomplish the protection you are after as the "paint" is making up most of the depth. Maybe that is not enough clear to wetsand again. Anyway, I'll be finding out myself soon as I've not ever done it before.

I appreciate your help,

Martin
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mfortier, i'm in Hawaii and found dupi color at Napa Auto. They have 2 types, one for later models and for earlier models. Spray one tack coat and let dry for 15 mins. and then a second thin coat. After an hour spray a heavier 3rd coat. I let the final coat sit for a week before wetsanding with 2000 and 3000.
 
Rsurfer said:
My question is, am I over doing it by applying clear coat or is just touchup paint, wetsand, polish and seal/wax enough.

IMO if you want to do a good job shooting clear is a must.

Just wanted to get other opinions especially Mike P.
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3 things,

1. If you can successfully sand and then re-paint a factory finish with the Dupli-Color spray can paint and not see any adhesion problems long term then that's great.

2. If you can successfully sand and then re-paint a factory finish with the Dupli-Color spray can paint and successfully blend your repair so it's not noticeable then that's even better!

3. If you can do both of the above and then document your procedure from beginning to end with text, pictures and a list of necessary products so others can follow in your success then that's the best of all worlds.


:dblthumb2:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
3 things,

1. If you can successfully sand and then re-paint a factory finish with the Dupli-Color spray can paint and not see any adhesion problems long term then that's great.

2. If you can successfully sand and then re-paint a factory finish with the Dupli-Color spray can paint and successfully blend your repair so it's not noticeable then that's even better!

3. If you can do both of the above and then document your procedure from beginning to end with text, pictures and a list of necessary products so others can follow in your success then that's the best of all worlds.


:dblthumb2:
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I have some RIDS on the bottom of my bumper that I will attack shortly and will post as you suggested. Hurt my back so can't do it right now, but itls bugging me... so will do it asap. Thanks Mike P.
 
Rsurfer-

I used this technique as you suggested In my http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/20048-deep-scratch-repair-3.html thread, in which I did document the work. I was very satisfied with the results. I recently re-shot some clear on the hood of my friends mustang where the original clear was peeling and got good results there too.

Blending the tape lines was a learning experience but is very doable. I found the best way was instead of just sanding the tape line to blend, to sand all the way through the new clear just inside the tape line, then remove the remaining new clear along the tape line (this way you don't sand too much on the factory paint side of the tape line). Then polish. Any of that make sense?

All in all I think shooting the clear is a great idea and I thank you for the suggestion, it has treated me well. :dblthumb2:

Edit: I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the two-part rattle cans? I saw these recently, you pop a seal in the can and it mixes the two parts (paint and hardener or reducer?) The guy at the shop said it was tough to keep any on the shelves, it all get bought up so quickly.
 
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A4 1.8tqm said:
Rsurfer-

I used this technique as you suggested In my http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/20048-deep-scratch-repair-3.html thread, in which I did document the work. I was very satisfied with the results. I recently re-shot some clear on the hood of my friends mustang where the original clear was peeling and got good results there too.

Blending the tape lines was a learning experience but is very doable. I found the best way was instead of just sanding the tape line to blend, to sand all the way through the new clear just inside the tape line, then remove the remaining new clear along the tape line (this way you don't sand too much on the factory paint side of the tape line). Then polish. Any of that make sense?

All in all I think shooting the clear is a great idea and I thank you for the suggestion, it has treated me well. :dblthumb2:
Click to expand...

I see what you mean.... and it certainly is a good way of not sanding too much of the factory clearcoat!
 
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