Clear Coat Failure or Chemical
I was recently asked to look at a paint problem for a potential customer. They showed me the car but could not tell me any clues as to why this rear trunk top surface looked so bad. They asked if I could do anything as their co-worker said I might be able to correct their car.
Photo-1
Since I was running an errand at their business I took a look but had to schedule a time to return. I first reached out the Spikey Mike as I knew he did painting plus detailing and he might have a hunch. I returned with my paint thickness gauge and a selection of Griot's Garage BOSS creams. Based upon my earlier trip and Spikey Mike's comments I was doubtful that the paint was even worthy of paint correction (needing a new paint job).
I took the time to measure the bad and good sections and to my surprise the bad section was thicker than the good sides? That told me that the clear coat was still present or at least something was still on that trunk lid. I inspected the drip channels below the trunk (Mike's tip) and those were normal (very little signs of failure nor chemical drips). So something had to be placed on the trunk to destroy the clear layer.
Next I grabbed out the GG Perfecting Cream (Yellow) and a white cotton terry towel. I place a small amount on the terry towel and hand buffed to see if the panel would return clear or paint color (red). It was clean! That meant to my limited experience that what was on the surface still held the clear coat layer. If it was gone then I should have return the base color, so things were getting interesting.
Next I stepped up and used the GG Correcting Cream (Orange) with the same white towel. Still making some improvement but still clean towel.
Next I grabbed the GG Fast Correcting Cream (White) with the towel and rubbed hard. Still clean but it was taking off the outer layer and giving me a smoother feel.
I did not have anything more aggressive but dug into my kit and pulled out my KXK RID STICKS with a 2500-grit sandpaper. I used my water solution and did a light sanding to see if the slurry was white or colored. This was same as others and showed that the surface still had clear coat. Yet my problem is that I only had a small sample of sand paper and did not want to work in sanding the trunk in the parking lot! Yes, the owner had luckily parked in the shade and it was a pleasant afternoon temp of 80-degrees.
So what started out in my assumption of clear coat failure was in fact something chemical in nature (still an unknown).
Thankfully I brought along my new FLEX CBEAST and my orange pads and yellow from Griot's line. With nothing to lose, I grabbed the Fast Correcting Cream and Orange pad. Results in the first section pass were encouraging and that outer layer was abraded and starting to show the under lying metallic ruby color. I continued this process over the entire trunk lid. I switch over and did the same thing again this time dropping down to the Correcting Cream. I switched pads to a yellow polishing pad and finishing out with the GG Perfecting Cream.
Did this remove the defects in the paint? Client was impressed and the surface took on a completely newer look which was acceptable. I did not have anything more agressive in the pads with me but doubted that it would have mattered anyway. I suspect this was a chemically caused blistering of the clear coat much like bug or bird droppings etching into the sub-layer.
Anyway perfection is in the eye of the beholder and even in the case a 50% improvement was a win!
I give thanks to Mike Phillips for his constant teaching and preaching of test spots and the least aggressive approach. From him I have learned and will continue to learn, so tune in or watch the re-runs from his Thursday Live Detailing classes.
Photo-2
Close up
PS; I also had the chance to use the Blackfire One Step to correct another section of the car due to paint transfer in the number area. It was easy and was a quick one-step buff and protected and DONE.
I was recently asked to look at a paint problem for a potential customer. They showed me the car but could not tell me any clues as to why this rear trunk top surface looked so bad. They asked if I could do anything as their co-worker said I might be able to correct their car.
Photo-1
Since I was running an errand at their business I took a look but had to schedule a time to return. I first reached out the Spikey Mike as I knew he did painting plus detailing and he might have a hunch. I returned with my paint thickness gauge and a selection of Griot's Garage BOSS creams. Based upon my earlier trip and Spikey Mike's comments I was doubtful that the paint was even worthy of paint correction (needing a new paint job).
I took the time to measure the bad and good sections and to my surprise the bad section was thicker than the good sides? That told me that the clear coat was still present or at least something was still on that trunk lid. I inspected the drip channels below the trunk (Mike's tip) and those were normal (very little signs of failure nor chemical drips). So something had to be placed on the trunk to destroy the clear layer.
Next I grabbed out the GG Perfecting Cream (Yellow) and a white cotton terry towel. I place a small amount on the terry towel and hand buffed to see if the panel would return clear or paint color (red). It was clean! That meant to my limited experience that what was on the surface still held the clear coat layer. If it was gone then I should have return the base color, so things were getting interesting.
Next I stepped up and used the GG Correcting Cream (Orange) with the same white towel. Still making some improvement but still clean towel.
Next I grabbed the GG Fast Correcting Cream (White) with the towel and rubbed hard. Still clean but it was taking off the outer layer and giving me a smoother feel.
I did not have anything more aggressive but dug into my kit and pulled out my KXK RID STICKS with a 2500-grit sandpaper. I used my water solution and did a light sanding to see if the slurry was white or colored. This was same as others and showed that the surface still had clear coat. Yet my problem is that I only had a small sample of sand paper and did not want to work in sanding the trunk in the parking lot! Yes, the owner had luckily parked in the shade and it was a pleasant afternoon temp of 80-degrees.
So what started out in my assumption of clear coat failure was in fact something chemical in nature (still an unknown).
Thankfully I brought along my new FLEX CBEAST and my orange pads and yellow from Griot's line. With nothing to lose, I grabbed the Fast Correcting Cream and Orange pad. Results in the first section pass were encouraging and that outer layer was abraded and starting to show the under lying metallic ruby color. I continued this process over the entire trunk lid. I switch over and did the same thing again this time dropping down to the Correcting Cream. I switched pads to a yellow polishing pad and finishing out with the GG Perfecting Cream.
Did this remove the defects in the paint? Client was impressed and the surface took on a completely newer look which was acceptable. I did not have anything more agressive in the pads with me but doubted that it would have mattered anyway. I suspect this was a chemically caused blistering of the clear coat much like bug or bird droppings etching into the sub-layer.
Anyway perfection is in the eye of the beholder and even in the case a 50% improvement was a win!
I give thanks to Mike Phillips for his constant teaching and preaching of test spots and the least aggressive approach. From him I have learned and will continue to learn, so tune in or watch the re-runs from his Thursday Live Detailing classes.
Photo-2
Close up
PS; I also had the chance to use the Blackfire One Step to correct another section of the car due to paint transfer in the number area. It was easy and was a quick one-step buff and protected and DONE.
