Clearcoating Headlights

lexusgs

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I tried Opti Lens a few times and it does not last very long on my headlights, a few months at most before they start discoloring again. I am going to try spraying my headlights with a 2K aerosol clear I will also be using when painting other parts of my car. Has anyone tried this?You are supposed to first spray a plastic adhesive promoter or primer before spraying clear on poly carbonate headlights but I am not exactly sure what grit sand paper you sand down to before applying the adhesive promoter before spraying the clear. Some people say 800grit while others say you can go much finer, I would rather go finer, 800 grit seems to be too rough. Has anyone had experience using a clear coat for headlights and what products/method did they use.
 
I've had good luck with OL. For clear coating, I think 2000 is more appropriate. 800 is WAY too rough.
 
I've had good luck with OL. For clear coating, I think 2000 is more appropriate. 800 is WAY too rough.


I wanted to go to 2000 grit but most manufactures and people say it needs to be 800 grit for the adhesion promoter, I am kind of worried you will see those scratches when the lights are on even if the adhesion promoter and clear cover up the sanding scratches. I am thinking of going down to 1000grit and maybe 1200 and see what happens. Might try a quick trial spray with the adhesion promotor partially on one that is sanded to 1000 grit and then sand that off before I do it.
 
You can go without doubt with 800 sandpaper, but wetsand.
The plastic primer needs to be sprayed, left a couple of minutes(any producer has different times so be careful to read or ask this) and then you spray the clearcoat. Don't worry, the scratches left by 800 sandpaper will be leveled by the clearcoat.
if you choose a finner sandpaper you will not get the same mechanicall adhesion and maybe after a while it will chip-off.
As a painter almost everytime I go with 800, sometimes 1000 but this is just for waterbased base.
 
I wanted to go to 2000 grit but most manufactures and people say it needs to be 800 grit for the adhesion promoter,Why would you doubt the manufacture? I am kind of worried you will see those scratches when the lights are on even if the adhesion promoter and clear cover up the sanding scratches. I am thinking of going down to 1000grit and maybe 1200 and see what happens. Might try a quick trial spray with the adhesion promotor partially on one that is sanded to 1000 grit and then sand that off before I do it.
:props:
 
I'm guessing these are the headlights on the Lexus?? For some reason Opti-lens hasn't lasted on any Toyota headlights I have done. Works great on other vehicles.
 
I was too as the first two vehicles I used in on we're both Toyotas. I've used it on other vehicles with great success. I did an Eclipse for a neighbor about a year ago. The car is outside 24/7 and they still look great. I put it on 1/3 of another neighbor's car before I realized it wasn't Gloss Coat. lol I'll let you know how it does on paint. I called Optimum and they told me the formulas are actually very similar. The Opti-Lens has more UV protectant and a couple other small tweaks
 
It may be Toyota/Lexus vehicles with Opti Lens. I did not get good results with it on my Lexus. I tried a adhesive promoter from Dupli color and had poor results, it went on cloudy and stayed cloudy and then crackled so I had to remove it. I decided to just wetsand back down with 800, I did a very quick light once over with 1000 to get down deeper scratches a little more and then I sprayed the lights with the remaining Spraymax 2K. The 800 grit sanding scratches immediately disappeared and turned pretty much crystal clear once clearcoated with a very slight bluish tinge in certain lights. I added 3-4 coats, there was some orange peel but it went on pretty good. The drivers side light is more hazy then the passenger because there is haze on the interior of the light I have never got. I notice when the lights are on there is some haze on the lens but I had that haze previously right after wetsanding and polishing them, light pattern has some bright streaks but is still normal. I did not wetsand the orange peel out. I will wait to see how the finish is holding up and if I really care to do it, I just went them to look good and clear, not obsessed with a perfect finish if it effects durability. So far the lights are crystal clear after about 3 weeks, giving it a month before applying a sealant for the cc to outgas, will likely do remaining Opti Lens if it has not dried out by now just for a little added protection. So far I am happy, wish I was able to apply a adhesive promoter but I did not have time due to cc pot life and the one I tried failed so I might not get as good durability but we will see. I am happy so far.
 
do you have pictures? close ups?

orange peel on a headlight will cut down on light output.

When I tried clear coating headlights on my other car years ago, I could see the fine scratches at night when the light was on.


My GS lexus headlights are all yellow too, but a light buffing every month with Meguiars Ultimate Polish gets rid of all the yellow with no elbow grease.

It's very easy to maintain, and none of the troubles of painting them, which is less durable than the original factory UV silicate coating.
 
I sanded up to 3000 grit and then applied the headlight coating David Sylican sells. Turned out great and he's probably one of the most knowledgeable guys in the HLR business.







 
Well... I learned the hard way with 2k Glamour High Gloss clear coat. I just did my headlights and the clear coat is cracking like mad. First time doing this, so certainly rookie mistakes and reading this thread after searching for what I did wrong...
- Used 2000 grit as final wet sand
- DID NOT use plastic adhesion promoter
- Probably over sprayed as well

I'll let you know how the rework job goes after it cures enough for me to sand off and give it another go!
 
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