Clown car driver from Dayton, OH

flatlander937

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Hey guys, I've been heavily lurking/searching the forum for the past few weeks, what led me here was looking into waterless washes since my wife and I moved from a house to an apartment where hose washing isn't available.



I've got a 2011 Mazda2 in black... it was my least wanted color(aside from the super bright green... not a fan)... but the car was an original FL car it's whole life with zero rust anywhere at 40k miles... it just looks like the previous owner was slow to remove some bird dookey in some spots and the dealer I got it from did a shoddy job buffing the car.

It had some horrible swirl/holograms initially, they took care of some of them but it was still quite noticeable.. I'll mention I work at the huge used car dealer and I know the guy who did it is capable of quality work, but it's somewhat production based and it was OK to the common person but I knew stuff was still there.


It was better but still some present(no pics but imagine about 1/3 of the holograms from the first 3 pics... lol)



So I used this as an excuse to buy all the Meguiars stuff I could find locally to do a bit with it, found that working by hand was downright crazy, I bought the DA system drill attachment which sped things up using UP, and I used UC in a few worse areas, like some bird poop etchings on the roof which helps a lot, but I didn't go too crazy on it due to 1) lack of time and 2) I have a (nearly)2yo son so he keeps both me and my wife pretty busy. Then we had to make some plans to move due to some unforeseen circumstances, so cleaning up the paint got put on the backburner for a while.


I got the hood looking about how I want it, it's overall acceptable now. The sides I had a hard time getting by hand/with the Meguiars DA system, and I didn't want to start using too aggressive of stuff without having the time to do everything the whole way through. So this is why I joined AGO, taken are some pics with a basic LED flashlight highlighting the minor swirls/spiderwebs I want to get rid of/improve on.

Something I've learned is that it's probably silly for me to try and fix everything in it's entirety because 1) Mazda paint is horrible and chips easily 2) It's a daily driver, albeit garaged at night and 3) I autocross it... so cone hits will be somewhat frequent and it's usually covered in weird brake/tire dust at the end of an event.

So yeah, that's my intro.

What I'm planning on doing is removing most of the swirls, then going to do a one step and longer lasting sealant to get it looking good(leaning towards the Klasse twins in the Forum Favorite kit) from about 10ft. When I get a set of dedicated auto-x wheels that actually deserve a cleaning(unlike my crap steelies which will be relegated to winter use eventually), I'm hoping to get them Opticoated while still brand new and flawless to get a head start on keeping them looking great.

Also my name is Tony and I'm a master auto technician(work on all makes and models, the shop I work at I generally get all the German stuff)... so if you're in the Dayton area and am in need of some diag/some repair work I might be able to help you out if you know how to do good detail work:xyxthumbs:
 
:welcome: ...to AGO!

Is it still cold enough for a hooded sweatshirt in Dayton!!

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Bob
 
:welcome: To Autogeek Online Tony! :props:

Autogeek is the 1-stop shop for all your detailing needs. Autogeek's customer service is 2nd to none and their goal is to assist you in achieving your detailing goals. :cheers:


Roll Call - What's your real first name?

Setting your goals too high is very common, we all do it, it's in our genes. Having a perfect defect free finish is something we all strive for but in reality "show car" perfection is well, for show cars only.

Our daily drivers are subjected to a very harsh environment. Each day the paint on our cars must endure wind, rain, sand, road grime, salt, water, sun, and much more. Although today's finishes are pretty durable they also begin to break down and do so over time.

Maintaining a finish not only keeps our cars looking their finest, it also slows down its natural degradation due to the environment.

Basic steps in order are:

  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Paint Correction & Polish
  • Seal
  • Wax
Working by hand instils "quality" in the mind of most people. Most of us began caring for our cars finish by hand using a bucket of soapy water, a sponge, a few towels and container of wax. While certainly better than not doing anything at all, there are better ways to maintain the finish and actually make this process enjoyable.

Mike Phillips is the director of education at Autogeek. Mike has written some of the finest articles on detailing and their free for all of us to educate ourselves and enjoy..

Car detailing articles by Mike Phillips

Mike has also written a book which is available in both paperback and electronic form..

Paperback

Electronic


If there's one tool that should be required it's a dual action polisher. Man vs machine in this case, man loses every time. Compounding and polishing using a dual action polisher, foam pad. and product does a more thorough, more consistent, and better job....period.


Car Buffers & Polishers


Dual Action Polishers


How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project

DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide

How to prime a foam pad when using a DA Polisher

How much product do I use with my DA Polisher?

Wet Buffing Technique

DA Polisher Articles - Help for Newbies to Machine Polishing


A little on choosing the right foam pad.

Personally, I prefer using 5 1/2" foam pads on all my machines. In my opinion, the smaller pad is a perfect balance between size and efficiency. Smaller pads make controlling the polisher easier putting less stress on the machine and the user

Foam Pads

Yellow Cutting Foam
- Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.

Orange Light Cutting Foam - Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all-around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.

White Polishing Foam - Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so it’s perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Gray Finishing Foam Pad - Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.

Blue Finessing Foam – Pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. Flat pad provides full contact with paint surface to minimize the pressure applied by the user.[FONT=&quot]

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Product links put the finest product selection at your finger tips.
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[/FONT]Exterior Car Care[FONT=&quot]
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Interior Car Care
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To simplify the compounding and polishing, two over the counter products by Meguiar's do a great job at removing minor scratches, swirls, and like defects leaving the finish looking like glass.

Two over the counter products that are available just about everywhere from a company that wrote another book on detailing is Meguiar's...

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound

Meguiar's Ultimate Polish


If you'd like some product suggestions that perform, take a look at these. I will guarantee they will not disappoint...

Wash - Duragloss #901
Clay - Meguiar's
Compound - Menzerna FG-400
Finishing Polish - Menzerna SF-4000
Sealant - CarPro Reload
Wax - Collinite 845
Spray Wax - Optimum Car Wax
Tire Cleaner - Meguiar's Super Degreaser
Wheel Cleaner - Sonax Full Effect
Tire Treatment - CarPro PERL
Wheel Protectant - Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
Trim Protectant - CarPro DLux
All Purpose Cleaner - Optimum Power Clean
Glass Cleaner - Meguiar's Glass Cleaner
Glass Treatment - Aquapel
Interior Protectant - Meguiar's M40
 
Welcome Tony! Looking at the positive side, i have found black as the best color to learn paint correction. Even though it shows defects easily it also shows if your defect correction efforts are working or not. And it looks so sweet when done right!

BobbyG is kind enough to share a boatload of great info. While it's comprehensive there is a ton more via discussion here too so don't be shy!
 
Ok, ok, enough with the Ohio people already! Welcome from Ashtabula County.
 
Welcome to AG, nice to see the 2 getting a workout, those cars are soooo light!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Welcome from Springboro!

Thanks! I'm actually on the border of Springboro/Miamisburg(I just have Dayton in my profile because otherwise nobody would have any idea where I'm at... ha), I think I may have seen your Mustang up and down 741 occasionally. It's the shiny one right? :xyxthumbs:

:welcome: ...to AGO!

Is it still cold enough for a hooded sweatshirt in Dayton!!

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Bob

Ha, that's an older pic, I got the car about 2 months ago so it was a bit cooler in the evening at that time.

(Giant helpful post from BobbyG)

Thanks! I've been though about half of those links already and working my way through all of them slowly. I definitely plan on getting a DA to do corrections more effectively, I really enjoy the detailing side of things and maybe in time would consider doing odd jobs on the side for friends and stuff.

Welcome Tony! Looking at the positive side, i have found black as the best color to learn paint correction. Even though it shows defects easily it also shows if your defect correction efforts are working or not. And it looks so sweet when done right!

BobbyG is kind enough to share a boatload of great info. While it's comprehensive there is a ton more via discussion here too so don't be shy!

I agree, my first car was a 94 Z28 in the weird aqua-ish green color(attached) and drying it off sucked because if it dried before getting to it you'd never see it until night time under street lights.

The last black "car" I had was actually a Jeep, but it never got washed because it had scratches in it's dents from trees and stuff(also attached).

Welcome from Kettering, Ohio

Another local! Are there ever any kind of local meet ups or anything? Cars and Coffee events or anything?

Welcome to AG, nice to see the 2 getting a workout, those cars are soooo light!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

Yes! It's easily one of the most fun cars I've ever driven... there's something to be said about a car that can just be thrown as hard into a corner as you feel comfortable doing(or uncomfortable!), and slow enough that you can literally drive WOT just about everywhere... ha. If you've ever driven a Miata, it's basically a wrong wheel drive Miata w/ 4 doors and a bit more useful space.








And to everyone else: THANKS for the welcome!:xyxthumbs:
 
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