Coating Failures X2

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I had coated a car with CQUK a while back, did all the prep work, took my time, coated it twice, tried to do everything by the books, but after at least a month or so the coating on the hood, roof, and truck lid was almost gone.. The other areas still seem to be holding up, but the previously mentioned areas seemed all gone... I kept up with the vehicle as best I could washing and maintaining with Reload at least every week, but still it seemed to have gone.. Then I decided to try another coating, Gtechniq EXO v2, and again after a short time it seemed to have gone as well, on the same areas as mentioned before.. and yes I did do all the proper work prior to applying it... Only re coated those three area.. What really gets me is prior to coating this vehicle I had coated my entire truck with the EXO v2 and it is performing amazingly, and I have actually not kept up with my truck as much as I did the other car.. I'm just baffled at whats going on..
Both vehicles get driven daily, my truck doesn't have to drive as far daily, but still they both get used, left outside and driven in all weather condition, and again I honestly don't keep up with my truck as much as I do the other vehicle.. I thought maybe because the other car is driven for longer periods of time and/or the environment conditions, other than weather like dirtier roads, may be cause, or even the rain fall out be worse, idk.. i just dont understand.. Anyone got any other ideas.. Thanks
 
when you state the coating was gone on the flat surfaces , do you mean it did not bead like the other panels ?
 
just to confirm, part of your prep work included claying and polishing off any contaminates on the surface?

It is weird only those panels aren't working..hmm
 
My first thought is in the cleaning of the surface before coating. If you polished and had a compound with durable oils then you need to repeat the Eraser process a few times. If the surface is surgically clean and you apply as instructed then it should not fail (neither would you need to Reload every week). Reload lasts me 4 solid months on work truck that stay outside 24/7 (washed bi-monthly)
 
I also had CQUK dissapear on me after 4 months, a few degreaser washes and three snow storms. Just reapplied yesterday
 
The product should still be there.

Did you try cleaning the surface with Iron-X?

I have found that most coatings require at least 2 washes a month or else a film of dirt will stay on the surface and give the false impression that the coating has failed.
 
Paint decon then re-evaluate the hydrophobic properties.
 
The product should still be there.

Did you try cleaning the surface with Iron-X?

I have found that most coatings require at least 2 washes a month or else a film of dirt will stay on the surface and give the false impression that the coating has failed.
I decreased it with diluted apc and then a hand wash with dawn and the water will still going flat on the lower portion of the truck. Didn't use iron x though
 
I decreased it with diluted apc and then a hand wash with dawn and the water will still going flat on the lower portion of the truck. Didn't use iron x though
That won't work - you'll need Iron-X.

Degreaser won't be enough to remove the layer of grime that was built up.


Does the surface feel rough?
 
That won't work - you'll need Iron-X.

Degreaser won't be enough to remove the layer of grime that was built up.


Does the surface feel rough?
Nope was smooth. I have since polished and recoated since the weather has been nice so it's all good now! Will try iron x and reset next time it looks like it goes flat
 
I want to re-ask the question of what makes you say the coating failed...are we talking beading and sheeting? I noticed on both of my coatings that the beading and sheeting after the 1st week were awful...but when I have to clean tar off of my dd I can do it with my eyelash. Beading and sheeting crapped out, but the coating is still there...I know because the car washes so amazing well. I've posted other places that I think beading and sheeting are really bad measure for vehicle protection. I'll take cleanabilty and shine every single time over beading and sheeting.
 
I want to re-ask the question of what makes you say the coating failed...are we talking beading and sheeting? I noticed on both of my coatings that the beading and sheeting after the 1st week were awful...but when I have to clean tar off of my dd I can do it with my eyelash. Beading and sheeting crapped out, but the coating is still there...I know because the car washes so amazing well. I've posted other places that I think beading and sheeting are really bad measure for vehicle protection. I'll take cleanabilty and shine every single time over beading and sheeting.


Yes the beading and sheeting had gone flat but the truck did come clean super easy cleaned up some grease with no effort


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just to confirm, part of your prep work included claying and polishing off any contaminates on the surface?

It is weird only those panels aren't working..hmm

Wash, clay, ironx, tarx, polish with carpro fixer and reflect, multiple wipe downs with eraser then coat in an enclosed environment
 
I want to re-ask the question of what makes you say the coating failed...are we talking beading and sheeting? I noticed on both of my coatings that the beading and sheeting after the 1st week were awful...but when I have to clean tar off of my dd I can do it with my eyelash. Beading and sheeting crapped out, but the coating is still there...I know because the car washes so amazing well. I've posted other places that I think beading and sheeting are really bad measure for vehicle protection. I'll take changeability and shine every single time over beading and sheeting.

The beading and sheeting were my main concern, it did still clean easy, but beeding and sheeting are kinda the main reason I did the coating.. for example less susceptible to water spots in breeding and sheeting are good..
 
The beading and sheeting were my main concern, it did still clean easy, but beeding and sheeting are kinda the main reason I did the coating.. for example less susceptible to water spots in breeding and sheeting are good..
I thought it was the other way around:
anything that causes water to form beads could leave some "type" of water-spots (depending upon the water's content).


Bob
 
Apparently, coatings = crap shoot. Sometimes they last - sometimes they don't. Despite all the advice and speculation you will get in his thread, nobody but the Almighty knows what happened to your coating.

The manufacturer will say YOU did something wrong.

People on the the forum will insist the coating is still there - although the hydrophobic properties have vanished - essentially leaving no proof it's still there.

Then, others will tell you it needs to be cleaned with some special soap or degreaser to make it bead again, although a waxed surface will always bead when it's cleaned with any old regular soap IME :mystery:

Yet others will tell you you need to use there preferred brand to get lasting results.

Who knows for sure?

Nobody.

As far as I'm concerned if the coating isn't beading - it's not there. "Easy cleaning" is subjective and open too all types of interpretation.
 
I disagree that coatings are as inconsistent as one post mentioned. User stated above that beading and sheeting were the reason he thought the coating was gone, but that his car still cleaned well. The coating is in tact as it should be. It's just an adjustment regarding user misconception. Use a microscope and I would bet my bet my stock of Collinite that the coating is still there. Beading and sheeting were a great feature of Turtle Wax Ice...ask people around here what they think of those product's durability, dust attraction, and cleanability. I'll state this fact again, cleanability trumps beading and sheeting on any day that ends with a "y".
 
For me beeding and sheeting go hand in hand with self cleaning abilities. I coated for precisely this reason. If the coating is still there but has lost its self cleaning ability that is not good for me. Besides the fact that any light marring will be in the coating not the clear coat
 
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