Coating my new Car, critique my plan

[04lss]

Hi all,

I just picked up a Sand color Ford maverick. I was able to prevent the Dealer from washing it, and the paint is close to pristine. I want to keep it that way. I took it straight to the local pay and spray and did a bucket wash and used a spray coating as a drying aid. (Glassparency boost) To give it some protection right away.

My products are as follows:
ADS quartz coating, TRC no soak applicators and coating towels, ADS glass coating, ADS decon soap, iron remover and prep spray. Sonax perfect finish paired with a white or yellow rupes pad, Rupes HLR 15, Koch Chemie glass cleaner. Griots synthetic clay bar, Adams wheel and tire cleaner, Gyeon wet coat (for wheels), Car pro tire dressing.


Decon:
The plan is to foam and bucket wash the car with the decon soap. Rinse it and iron decon. Then Foam it with a neutral soap (something like GSF) and clay using the griots synthetic clay.


Polish:
The plan is to use Sonax perfect finish paired with either a rupes yellow or white pad (depending on how the paint responds) I have not noticed any swirls, so this is mainly for gloss and cleaning. I also have rupes yellow polish on a shelf. I have an HLR 15 for the main surfaces and a G8 for the smaller spaces.

Protect:

Use the Armour Panel prep, and then go to town on the application. I think the plan will be for me to apply and the other person to wipe down. Then once the truck is coated, we both circle it with swirlfinders looking for high spots.

My only unknown is the spray coating that is on the plastics right now. I know the polish will fully clear the paint, but how should I remove it from the plastics?

Glass:

The glass has a bunch of gunk on it so it fully needs a thorough cleaning. The plan is to clean, clay, and polish the glass probably just with the sonax, if it needs more I have a dedicated glass polish. Clean the glass with the prep twice and apply using the ADS applicator.

 

[DFB]

I think you are on the right track with all that.

With the glass polishing, you can afford to be more aggressive with pad and compound, so choose you heaviest cutting pad (foam, wool, microfiber) and team it with you heaviest cutting compound.

With the plastic trim, most spray sealants are pretty weak when it comes to chemical resistance. The ADS Decon soap would remove most of it, if not go over the areas with a brush and APC, then your prep spray.

 

[The Guz]

The one thing you may want to try is using your iron remover with the synthetic clay to save you a step. Try a test spot and see how it works.

Some tips on the ADS coatings:

1. ADS Quartz is not the easiest coating to work with so expect the first wipe to be tacky.
2. ADS Glass works best as a wipe on and wipe off process. Also recommend shrinking your work size meaning split the front glass into 4. You can apply the second layer right after as it has no set up time.

Follow @DFB on the process to get the trim prepped.

 

[04lss]

The one thing you may want to try is using your iron remover with the synthetic clay to save you a step. Try a test spot and see how it works.

Some tips on the ADS coatings:

1. ADS Quartz is not the easiest coating to work with so expect the first wipe to be tacky.
2. ADS Glass works best as a wipe on and wipe off process. Also recommend shrinking your work size meaning split the front glass into 4. You can apply the second layer right after as it has no set up time.

Follow @DFB on the process to get the trim prepped.

I appreciate the feedback!

I've actually decided to just use Rain X. Ive seen a lot of folks claim that it lasts just as long as some of the coatings ive used, and for 10 bucks, why not try it. I can always polish and apply something else later. My main goal is just to get the water beading and to have something to keep the road film from merging with the glass. Chances are whatever ends up on the glass is going to be covered with a dyring aid topper within a month anyway.