Cobra correction plan. Please advise

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hoyt66

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My co worker/ friend has a Mustang Cobra in desperate need of some love. Only a couple places where I can feel the scratch with my finger nail. This will be the first car I try to correct thats not mine. Pics are bad...Sorry

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Heres my plan

1) Pinnacle clay (car will be washed already)
2) Start w/ white pad and Pinnacle polish (test area)
ipa wipe down> bump up to orange pad if needed>ipa wipe down>switch to Pinn swirl remover if needed
3)back to white pad and polish if I had to go with the swirl remover
4) ipa wipe down and lsp by hand

Machine is PC 7424xp

Thanks
 
Shake off the jitters Chet! You have a solid plan!

Good luck and I'm sure it will look awsome!
 
hoyt66 said:
My co worker/ friend has a Mustang Cobra in desperate need of some love. Only a couple places where I can feel the scratch with my finger nail. This will be the first car I try to correct thats not mine.
Click to expand...

I'm confident you're going to do a GREAT job!



hoyt66 said:
Heres my plan

1) Pinnacle clay (car will be washed already)
2) Start w/ white pad and Pinnacle polish (test area)
ipa wipe down> bump up to orange pad if needed>ipa wipe down>switch to Pinn swirl remover if needed
3)back to white pad and polish if I had to go with the swirl remover
4) ipa wipe down and lsp by hand

Machine is PC 7424xp

Thanks
Click to expand...


Factory Ford paint is pretty hard, my guess is you'll need to use the Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover to remove the vast majority of swirls and scratches. It works incredibly well and finishes down so nicely some people would be happy with the results and go straight to wax.

Follow up with the Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish will help take the paint to a higher level of clarity and gloss but do some testing as that's the best practice.



hoyt66 said:
I was going to pass on it. It seems like most ppl use it on light colors or am I way off base with that?
Click to expand...


It's just with light colors you can see the bleeding effect IF there are iron contaminants. On a dark color it's harder to see the bleeding but if there are iron contaminants it's important to remove them.

In a perfect world, you would use an IronX type product on the paint and NOT see any bleeding, kind of like car insurance, you want to have it but don't want to use it.

No bleeding means no iron contaminant and that's a healthy sign for the paint.

Bleeding means iron contamination and that means corrosion and deterioration of the paint has been taking place.


Make sense?


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I'm confident you're going to do a GREAT job!






Factory Ford paint is pretty hard, my guess is you'll need to use the Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover to remove the vast majority of swirls and scratches. It works incredibly well and finishes down so nicely some people would be happy with the results and go straight to wax.

Follow up with the Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish will help take the paint to a higher level of clarity and gloss but do some testing as that's the best practice.






It's just with light colors you can see the bleeding effect IF there are iron contaminants. On a dark color it's harder to see the bleeding but if there are iron contaminants it's important to remove them.

In a perfect world, you would use an IronX type product on the paint and NOT see any bleeding, kind of like car insurance, you want to have it but don't want to use it.

No bleeding means no iron contaminant and that's a healthy sign for the paint.

Bleeding means iron contamination and that means corrosion and deterioration of the paint has been taking place.


Make sense?


:)
Click to expand...

Makes perfect sense! Thank you. I'm going to use it. Why leave it to chance?
I also want to stay a little conservative because the car has been re painted . I should of posted that
 
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