Collinite 476s over Meguiars Gold Class Plus paste wax

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Tekno_Cowboy

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Finished up my late summer detail on my Grand Prix, and I'm looking ahead to my Fall/Winter prep.

For the summer detail I used:
Pinnacle Clay
M105 Compound
Ultimate Polish
2 coats Gold Class Plus paste wax
Followed up twice weekly with M135 synthetic spray detailer/Ultimate quick detialer

For my winter wax, I ordered a tin of Collinite 476s to use as LSP.

What I'm wondering is what I should do prior to using the 476s. Can I just do a thorough wash and then go right into waxing, or should I do something prior to waxing?
 
I don't know if 476s, a hybrid, will properly bond over a pure wax like Gold Class. Also, aside from the wax over sealant practice, it is well accepted that the most durable product should be applied first. Maybe you can polish with UP for a well-prepped surface before applying 476s. It's winter. It's better to be safe than sorry. You should also do the baggie test to determine whether or not you should clay the paint first.Twice a year claying is the minimum.
 
Just clayed last week, so I should be good, except maybe the lower side panels, and maybe the hood.

The current version of the gold class is also a hybrid. It lasts a good bit longer than the original as well, but nowhere near what I hear the 476s does.

I'll probably wind up giving it another polish then, providing that the 476s will work well with the UP.
 
I too would recommend applying the 476s first then topping with Gold Class. Reason is that which was stated above, the most durable should be applied first.
 
Regardless of the manufacturer every product we apply begins to degrade as soon as it's applied. Because of many variables; sun, temperature, rain, washing etc they'll degrade at different rates.

Depending when you're planning on doing your winter prep the Gold Class Wax will most likely be gone especially if you're planning on claying prior to applying the Collinite 476.

Meguiar's Gold Class is a decent over the counter product but in my opinion it shouldn't be part of the winter prep. Rather than using it', get yourself a good sealant like Klasse High Gloss Sealant or Menzerna Power Lock and apply it as a base prior to the Collinite 476.

Collinite 476 is a nice product but it's more of a traditional old world paste wax and can be somewhat of a challenge to work with. Another product in the Collinite line that's much easier to apply and remove is Collinite 845. This is a great product and gives 5 months of protection against the elements.

Wash
Clay
Pre-Wax Cleaner
Sealant
Wax
 
brawl said:
I don't know if 476s, a hybrid, will properly bond over a pure wax like Gold Class. Also, aside from the wax over sealant practice, it is well accepted that the most durable product should be applied first. Maybe you can polish with UP for a well-prepped surface before applying 476s. It's winter. It's better to be safe than sorry. You should also do the baggie test to determine whether or not you should clay the paint first.Twice a year claying is the minimum.
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I echo this suggestion. It's just an educated guess but I'd think the Gold Class could effect the integrity of the 476 bonding.
 
I'm planning on doing my winter prep sometime in late september. I'll probably wind up claying, and maybe polishing as well.

I've heard vastly different opinions of the 476s, as far as application/removal goes.
Some people say that it's very hard to work with, others say it's no harder than any other paste wax.

I say that paste waxes tend to be much easier to apply with a DA than liquid waxes, for the fact that liquid waxes are more likely to soak into the pad. That's why I'd like to stay away from the 845.

I'm also not a big fan of layering different types of protection, so I'd rather just go with one product as the protecting layer. From all the reading I've done, the 476s seems to be one of the most durable out there.
 
The beauty of living in the south is that I don't have to do my winter prep until November
 
I don't mean to hijack a thread here, but last weekend I clayed & did a one-step (AIO) on a friend's Mustang. The next day I did a quick wash & dry and then applied Collinite Fleetwax (which I understand to be the same as 476). The car looked great, but after applying and removing the wax the car was driven to the store and back and afterward I could see like a residue of some sort and it seemed like the wax would just smear (most noticeable on the hood (heat issue?) ). It's cleared up now and the wax is performing great and the car looks fine, but is there a trick to the right application for this stuff?

I'm sure that my MF's were all clean and free of any residues and I used a wash soap w/ no glossing agents (or any other additives) before applying the wax. I applied it w/ a DA on a black LC pad and spread it very thin.
 
Reflexion said:
I don't mean to hijack a thread here, but last weekend I clayed & did a one-step (AIO) on a friend's Mustang. The next day I did a quick wash & dry and then applied Collinite Fleetwax (which I understand to be the same as 476). The car looked great, but after applying and removing the wax the car was driven to the store and back and afterward I could see like a residue of some sort and it seemed like the wax would just smear (most noticeable on the hood (heat issue?) ). It's cleared up now and the wax is performing great and the car looks fine, but is there a trick to the right application for this stuff?

I'm sure that my MF's were all clean and free of any residues and I used a wash soap w/ no glossing agents (or any other additives) before applying the wax. I applied it w/ a DA on a black LC pad and spread it very thin.
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Sounds like wax hologramming. This tends to happen when a) you've applied it too thickly, and/or b) you've removed the wax before it has fully dried. So after applying very thinly, make sure you give it enough time to dry. Then after buffing off, try and go over it maybe an hour later a second time, to ensure you've removed all wax remnants. I've also read suggestions that misting some chilled distilled water just prior to buffing can also help.
 
Reflexion said:
I don't mean to hijack a thread here, but last weekend I clayed & did a one-step (AIO) on a friend's Mustang. The next day I did a quick wash & dry and then applied Collinite Fleetwax (which I understand to be the same as 476). The car looked great, but after applying and removing the wax the car was driven to the store and back and afterward I could see like a residue of some sort and it seemed like the wax would just smear (most noticeable on the hood (heat issue?) ). It's cleared up now and the wax is performing great and the car looks fine, but is there a trick to the right application for this stuff?

I'm sure that my MF's were all clean and free of any residues and I used a wash soap w/ no glossing agents (or any other additives) before applying the wax. I applied it w/ a DA on a black LC pad and spread it very thin.
Click to expand...

Ive had the same thing happen to me when the humidity was real high....just wipe down later and it will be fine
 
i have been using collinite 476 for about six mouths. i tryed NXT 2.0 with a DA(sep 21). did not even come close to the 476 in every way,shape. i put my 476 on with a DA and a butter knife. lighty spread it like butter.
 
In my experience 476 was difficult to use compared to PBMG waxes, Fuzion, Sounveran, SSII, Max Wax. If you haven't used these then I don't think you will find it too difficult. Great durability too. My vote is to apply 476 to bare paint, allow to haze then remove, wait maybe 12 hours and wipe down with chilled distilled water.
 
I would put the 476 under anything else. personally I do a sealant (Menzerna Power Lock) the go over it with Collinite 845.

I gotta give BobbyG props for recommending this and its amazing!

Sent from my DROID PRO using Tapatalk
 
BobbyG said:
Collinite 476 is a nice product but it's more of a traditional old world paste wax and can be somewhat of a challenge to work with.
Click to expand...

Put this on a couple of other vehicles this weekend, and found it to be much easier to use than I was led to believe by the threads on this forum. I even tried to make it more difficult by putting it on as thick as I could with the DA in direct sunlight. Even then, it went on fairly thin, and very easily.

The removal was not nearly so bad as it was made out to be. For me, it was no worse than any other paste wax. The only downside was that it took more than an hour to dry, even in direct sunlight...
 
Here are my final winter prep steps. Assuming you are starting with a clean properly prepped surface.

Duragloss #601 Polish Bonding Agent
Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish
Collinite #845 Wax

Maintenance
Duragloss #951 Aqua Wax
Duragloss #921 Fast Clean and Shine

I find in personal testing that the #601 does increase durability a bit and acts as a final cleaner/prep bonding agent as intended. The #105 has very little cleaner(as in almost none) does not defeat the #601 and lasts longer then the #111 (with no cleaner). The #845 besides adding another layer of protection adds a warm glow to the somewhat sterile shine of the #105. I find #845 quicker to work with than the #476 but the 476 does last a month or two longer. Followed up with a quick spray of Duragloss #951 Aqua Wax after a wash as needed or #921 fast clean and shine. No compatibility issues at all. Just give the #105 12 to 24 hours to cure depending on conditions before layering on the the 845. A second coat of #845 looks even better if time allows. I get a full 6 months of protection at the very least. Relatively speaking all great cost effective products and very easy to use.

If you need or want more paint cleansing substitute the #105 with #501 Marine and RV Polish and skip the #601 as the #501 has a much more aggressive cleaner and would negate the #601's purpose.
 
I may have to try some of the duragloss stuff at some point, but for this year, I think I'll stick with what I've got on hand. Thanks for the advice.
 
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