Collinite longevity? Can 915 really last longer than 845?

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Last December I polished and waxed my dad's black kia optima with poorboys polish with sealant followed by 845. It looked amazing! Yesterday I saw the kia was still beading pretty good after six months! It went through a harsh winter here in pa too! The car is garage kept and hand washed weekly, with application of griots spray wax 2 or 3 times this spring.

I've got a new can of 915 and have used it once on a customers black ram. I do think it looked nicer than 845. If I am correct collinite says 915 should last longer, but I'm having trouble believing that's gonna be possible.

Anyone have any experience with the 2 in comparison?

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I don't have a direct comparison but Collinite says that #476S is their most durable product.

#915 says "Look for exceptional durability and a price that’s hundreds less than other boutique brands."

"Surpasses other high-end waxes in both durability and value"

To me that does not specifically say it will outlast 845 Insulator Wax. In fact it isn't specific at all. They do indicate this is their show car wax so to speak with the highest carnauba concentration..
 
It is on the faq page on cilollinites site.

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Last December I polished and waxed my dad's black kia optima with poorboys polish with sealant followed by 845. It looked amazing! Yesterday I saw the kia was still beading pretty good after six months!...

with application of griots spray wax 2 or 3 times this spring.

I've got a new can of 915 and have used it once on a customers black ram. I do think it looked nicer than 845. If I am correct collinite says 915 should last longer, but I'm having trouble believing that's gonna be possible.
If you treat the #915 with the same spray-on wax regimen, as you have the #845...it's possible.

However...On the other hand:
By use of the spray-on wax regimen, you have...IMHO:
Invalidated/skewed the Collinite's characteristics, and resulting review---beading, longevity, or otherwise.

Bob
 


Didn't see that, thank you.
With this statement "No. 845- easiest of the 3 to apply/remove with slightly less durability than the No. 915" what does that really mean? Two weeks? Two months? I do understand what you're asking but I must wonder how important/substantial the difference in durability is with the many variables involved?

From a production standpoint I would go with the easiest to use with good durability which says #845 to me. For the best look and slightly (whatever that is) more durability then #915 would be the way to go.

I realize none of this helps answer you since I have not put the two against each other and tested for durability....just reading what Collinite says and trying to interpret it sensibly.
 
I know that's not a perfect review of longevity, but it has been over a month since my dad did spray wax app. And I know griots spray doesn't last that long.

I didn't feel 915 was any harder to remove actually. I think using the tin is easier than bottle. Since I often have to warm the bottle up to use it.

I'm tempted to do a half and half on my truck with each.

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I have all three on the shelf and my experience has been just what Collinite publishes. Both pastes outlast the liquid, with 476 at the top. I can't give you exact time measurements, since I never leave a car untouched until the wax is completely gone, but I can say that 476 got me from October through May on a non-garaged DD this past winter in PA, while 845 gave up around March the year before. Can't comment on 915, as that's one of my summer choices. 915 topped with Fuzion did go from July until a redo in April on my Camino, but garage queens don't count.

Bill
 
I have not used 845 yet but I like the durability of 476s. I applied it to a Dodge Ram in early November and it lasted until the first week in April when I detailed the truck again. It is a daily driver and sits out 24/7 here in PA. Collinite 915 is my favorite paste wax. I really cannot compare the two because the vehicles I use it on are garaged as well but I like the shine of 915.
 
I have used all 3 for over 30 years. Always great results.
 
I got over six months from 845 on a DD that lived through worst winter in St Louis in over 40 years and only saw a garage at night. I applied it in November and it was still going strong in May when I polished it off. That was with a single coat. The car saw repeated touchless car washes with their harsh detergents and spent long periods encased in salt/winter road grime.

915 is really appealing to me. I'd like to try a more "show car"-like wax on my black car to see how it would look compared to 845 without spending a fortune.
 
I have used all 3 for over 30 years. Always great results.

Anyone on the fence about Collinite?....you've been pushed OFF the fence!

What an endorsement!!

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Collinite is one of the few wax's that would last the entire winter in Upstate New York in the late 60's on your brand new Muscle Car that you had to drive all winter..............

They still are at the same location in Utica and you can walk right in and buy your wax and get advice on how to apply/remove it.

Great group of guys
 
I use 476s on my BMW, I usually re wax every 6 months out of habit but the car never actually needs it. It's garaged and I use spray wax frequently so under those conditions I honestly feel this wax could easily last over a year, probably more. It's amazing! Pain in the ass to apply though
 
I've used all of them as well over the years, all great. Don't depend on any of them as a cleaner wax though.

I would say the variance in longevity between all of them is not too drastic, that #845, supposedly the least durable of the 3 also protects for a long time.

As for the pastes, I've always had easier application by dampening the applicator. For years I used it with just standard Cotton-MF Applicators, but I think it spread thinner and more even with a Foam Applicator.

Don't "grind" the pad into the wax. Although they are hard pastes, doing such will most likely have you applying too much product onto the Applicators. As many would suggest for removal, do the swipe test with a finger.

Yes, they might work you a little bit more on removal than say a pure Sealant such as Menzerna Powerlock, or WGDGPS 3.0, they're not that bad IMO, and all the Collinite Products have always wiped of clean quickly for me, no matter what I put them on. No hazing, clouding or streaking left behind, just a nice rock hard, yet buttery smooth feeling shell of protection
 
As for the pastes, I've always had easier application by dampening the applicator.

Mark,
Have you ever ran into problems introducing moisture into the metal containers of wax?

I have. It was years ago when using one of the original formulas...yellow tins...of M26, then switching to another wax at the time and not opening the can of M26 for awhile. Actually, didn't re-open that can of M26 for probably a couple of years.

The reason I didn't re-open that can was because at that time, mid-80's, I found M26 to be a pain to remove (though it was user error...applying to thick and didn't know any better...yet still found other things to remove easier).

When I did re-open that tin of M26 the entire inside of the can was full of rust, so naturally I wouldn't use it and I threw it away. Haven't bought a tin of M26 since, though I'm not apposed to the idea of buying a new tin of that wax.



Dampening the applicator is/was a pretty common technique back then, and some companies may still endorse that. I don't know. I'm not saying it's wrong, but I can think of numerous ways of introducing heat to wax to make an applicator easier to load.

Of course, then again, it pays to open and check your products from time to time.
 
Mark,
Have you ever ran into problems introducing moisture into the metal containers of wax?

I have. It was years ago when using one of the original formulas...yellow tins...of M26, then switching to another wax at the time and not opening the can of M26 for awhile. Actually, didn't re-open that can of M26 for probably a couple of years.

The reason I didn't re-open that can was because at that time, mid-80's, I found M26 to be a pain to remove (though it was user error...applying to thick and didn't know any better...yet still found other things to remove easier).

When I did re-open that tin of M26 the entire inside of the can was full of rust, so naturally I wouldn't use it and I threw it away. Haven't bought a tin of M26 since, though I'm not apposed to the idea of buying a new tin of that wax.



Dampening the applicator is/was a pretty common technique back then, and some companies may still endorse that. I don't know. I'm not saying it's wrong, but I can think of numerous ways of introducing heat to wax to make an applicator easier to load.

Of course, then again, it pays to open and check your products from time to time.

I can't even guesstimate how many cans of so many different paste waxes I've gone through over a period of a good 40 years. Blue Coral Paste I always got in a Blue Glass Jar, but this didn't mean that the screw on metal lid couldn't rust. Also cannot even guess how many cans of wax hit the trash because of the cans deteriorating, or the wax turning to rock or going bad.

And everything else, yes everything, Slipstream, Trewax Brand, Classic, Simonize, Collinte, Private Small Company Brands, you name it, I would eventually see rust usually the lid, and the top inside rim where there was no longer any wax to protect the metal.

About the only wax I have on hand, that I haven't seen this occur, is a small 200ml Jar of UK Made Renaissance Wax, and the reason I believe it will never happen with this Wax, is it appears that it comes in an Aluminum Jar with Screw on Lid.

Given enough time, I'm quite certain it will eventually happen with any Paste Wax in a steel-tin metal Can. Humidity, storage enviornment, and as you say, dampened-wetted Applicators can no doubt speed up such a process.


It's been a a long long time since I have ever stored good wax-sealants in some hot-cold garage, or shed. Always store all of it in the house. My Spare Bedroom is starting to look like an AG-Autopia Wharehouse! LOL
 
When I did re-open that tin of M26 the entire inside of the can was full of rust, so naturally I wouldn't use it and I threw it away. Haven't bought a tin of M26 since, though I'm not apposed to the idea of buying a new tin of that wax.

This happened to me too. I just removed the M26 from the tin and put it in an old pot. I then put it in a hot water bath and it melted to a liquid. After letting it sit for a few hours, it looked almost like new. The consistancy is a bit different but it appears to work just fine. With the shine that Collinite 915 gives, the M26 is pretty much going to gather dust.

To avoid the rust problem, I spread a little of the wax over any exposed metal.

So far as Collinite's durability goes, the main variables are how well it is applied, paint condition, vehicle storage, and how many layers are applied. I have worked with both 476S and 915. Both are easy to remove if they are applied properly. I use a DA polisher to get the thinnest coat on the paint. I use the application method that Mike Phillips uses and by the time I've finished 2 passes, the wax can be removed. Usually the wax comes off with one pass. I have had no problem working on sections larger than the 2' size that Collinite recommends. I also have had no problem removing either wax from exterior vinyl.

Since I don't drive that much any more, I'm waiting for my brother and/or my nephew to need a detail. Then I'll get some solid feedback on durability.

My one gripe with Collinite is the silly containers they use for their 476S. The 915 comes in a traditional size but the 476S comes in some awful sizes, especially for those of us who use DA polishers and use them to swirl the foam pad in the can to pick up the wax. The 9 oz size has an opening that will accept a max pad side of 3.5" and the 18 oz size will only accept a 3" pad. I can't imagine what they were thinking.
 
Anyone on the fence about Collinite?....you've been pushed OFF the fence!

What an endorsement!!

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Thanks Klasse Act. Everyone has a weak moment once in while and want to try something new but Collinite will bring you back to reality every time and I'm not affiliated with the company in any way. I still remember the first time I saw this wax on a car it was on an 1984 BMW 318I in a deep burgundy. I asked the owner "what kind of wax is that" he told me and I never looked back. I'd say more like kicked off the fence.
 
I applied collinite 845 on Oct 30 last year and it's still beading now. Car is usually garaged at night, but is daily driven in the rainy northwest. Also after I waxed I had a few people asking what I did to my car because it looked so shiney! Haven't tried the pastes yet...
 
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