Concerns about multiple colored gelcoats

[RudyQ]

My dad has a 2006 1900 Regal bowrider I plan on detailing. He has some light oxidation on the back corners near the transom.
My main concern is that the boat is black with a red boot stripe. What do I need to worry about as far as color transfer when using the rotary with polish/compound on gelcoat? Is it normal with gelcoat to get color transfer to the pads?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Jomax]

My dad has a 2006 1900 Regal bowrider I plan on detailing. He has some light oxidation on the back corners near the transom.
My main concern is that the boat is black with a red boot stripe. What do I need to worry about as far as color transfer when using the rotary with polish/compound on gelcoat? Is it normal with gelcoat to get color transfer to the pads?

Thank you in advance.

You shouldn't be seeing any color on your pads if it IS gel coat.

 

[RudyQ]

So I take it that means I don't need to tape off the different color black and red gelcoat colors where they meet either?

 

[Jomax]

If it is gel coat( which every boat should be) then no need to tape the different colors.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

If it's a gel-coat finish then you will see color or pigment come off when you cut the oxidation off using a compound. This pigment won't hurt anything and is normal.

Be prepared to clean your pad often, if you don't have a Spur then get one. Buffing out oxidized gel-coat finishes is where it's real handy to have a pad washer, then you simply clean your pad in the pad washer and the spur the pad to fluff and separate the fibers and get back to work.


If for some reason the boat has a clear coat, (some custom performance boats do), then you won't see color-transfer and if you do that means you made a whoops!


After cutting off the oxidation using a wool pad you'll want to come back and re-buff the gel-coat using a foam pad and if you want a swirl free finish it's easiest to do the last machine step using any DA Polisher so as to change the action of the tool.


Be sure to shares some before and after pictures...



:xyxthumbs:

 

[RudyQ]

If it's a gel-coat finish then you will see color or pigment come off when you cut the oxidation off using a compound. This pigment won't hurt anything and is normal.

:xyxthumbs:

Thanks Mike that is what I was concerned about. Thank you for clearing that up for me.

Had oxidation on the back corners near the swim platform, and halfway up the left hull from where it used to be drystacked.

I started today with the Porter Cable and Megs #50 One Step Cleaner Wax on LC Green CCS Pad. After applying, letting dry to a haze, and removing I was unsatisfied with the results. Still didn't have very much clarity, or reflection.

Decided to just suck it up and go three step:
1) Porter Cable with Megs #49 Heavy Oxidation Remover by LC Purple Foam
2) Porter Cable with Megs #45 High Gloss Polish by LC Green Polishing Pad
3) Porter Cable with Megs #56 Pure was by LC Blue Finess Pad

I will say I was very happy with how all of the Meguiars Products were easy to apply, and buff off afterwards. Worked the Oxidation Remover, and Polish until the product started to dissappear and it buffed right off. Applied the wax evenly, let it dry to a haze, and came right off.

I added before and after pictures below. The after picture is after correction, but before adding the wax. It added significantly more luster, and depth. Will add more later.

 

[Jomax]

If it's a gel-coat finish then you will see color or pigment come off when you cut the oxidation off using a compound. This pigment won't hurt anything and is normal.

Be prepared to clean your pad often, if you don't have a Spur then get one. Buffing out oxidized gel-coat finishes is where it's real handy to have a pad washer, then you simply clean your pad in the pad washer and the spur the pad to fluff and separate the fibers and get back to work.


If for some reason the boat has a clear coat, (some custom performance boats do), then you won't see color-transfer and if you do that means you made a whoops!


After cutting off the oxidation using a wool pad you'll want to come back and re-buff the gel-coat using a foam pad and if you want a swirl free finish it's easiest to do the last machine step using any DA Polisher so as to change the action of the tool.


Be sure to shares some before and after pictures...


:xyxthumbs:

I learn something everyday, always thought gel coat was a type of clear coat, to the OP sorry for the misinformation on my first post.

 

[BillE]

Rudy...

NICE turn around!

Bill

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I started today with the Porter Cable and Megs #50 One Step Cleaner Wax on LC Green CCS Pad. After applying, letting dry to a haze, and removing I was unsatisfied with the results. Still didn't have very much clarity, or reflection.

Yep... oxidized gel-coat takes a little work to remove and revitalize.

Decided to just suck it up and go three step:
1) Porter Cable with Megs #49 Heavy Oxidation Remover by LC Purple Foam
2) Porter Cable with Megs #45 High Gloss Polish by LC Green Polishing Pad
3) Porter Cable with Megs #56 Pure was by LC Blue Finess Pad

[/quote]

I will say I was very happy with how all of the Meguiars Products were easy to apply, and buff off afterwards. Worked the Oxidation Remover, and Polish until the product started to disappear and it buffed right off. Applied the wax evenly, let it dry to a haze, and came right off.

That's a good, simple system that will work on most boats...

I added before and after pictures below. The after picture is after correction, but before adding the wax. It added significantly more luster, and depth. Will add more later.

Nice work!

Here's your pictures inserted instead of attached, I uploaded them to your gallery...


Before and After

:dblthumb2:

 

[RudyQ]

Thank you for the words of encouragement.

Next I'm tackling the white gelcoat above the rubrail which is oxidized the worst. How does this combination sound?

Meg's #91 heavy oxidation remover via purple foam wool(pc or rotary not sure yet)
Meg's #45 high gloss polish via green polishing pad(pc)
Mega # 56 by hand(lots of curved sections)
I have some 4 inch pads which should help.

My concerns are that I might need to step up to a rotary. I just got the makita 9227C in the mail.

Do you think gelcoat is tough enough to learn on with purple foam pads or should I just step up to the wool pads it comes with?

With wool pads on a rotary with megs#91 should I be able to finish well following with the megs#45 on the PC?(afraid I might end up with some holograms)

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thank you for the words of encouragement.

Above all else, a good forum is helpful to the members...

Next I'm tackling the white gel-coat above the rubrail which is oxidized the worst. How does this combination sound?

Meg's #91 heavy oxidation remover via purple foam wool(pc or rotary not sure yet)

Rotary for sure, PC type tools don't work well with long fiber pads.

A wool cutting pad would be better... something aggressive.

Meg's #45 high gloss polish via green polishing pad (pc)

The M45 is non-abrasive, if you cut with a compound and any type of fiber pad on a rotary buffer you'll leave swirls in the gel-coat even though you might not see them if you're not in the right light or the right angle. A second machine step should be performed using a medium to fine cut polish.

That's assuming you want to leave a really nice finish? For some people or some boats, just getting the gel-coat cleaned, smooth and shiny is more than enough.

Mega # 56 by hand(lots of curved sections)
I have some 4 inch pads which should help.

That will work after your polishing step.

My concerns are that I might need to step up to a rotary. I just got the Makita 9227C in the mail.

For oxidized gel-coats, a rotary is really the way to go with a wool cutting pad. You can use the PFW and it will work as it's a very versatile buffing pad and it will finish out nicer than an aggressive wool cutting pad.

Do you think gelcoat is tough enough to learn on with purple foam pads or should I just step up to the wool pads it comes with?

Test with both, try the PFW first if it's not giving you the results you want fast enough switch over to the wool cutting pad that comes with the Makita. It's actually a very nice wool pad.

You need a spur, if you don't have one get one. You can use a screwdriver or something similar but nothing works as good as a spur for cleaning and fluffing the fibers of a matted-up wool pad.

In the below video, I show how to use a spur safely.

Tips for using a Rotary Buffer and the Flex 3401 on vertical panels​

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gc_umhlote4&hd=1]Tips for using a Rotary Buffer and the Flex 3401 on vertical panels - YouTube[/video]

With wool pads on a rotary with megs#91 should I be able to finish well following with the megs#45 on the PC?(afraid I might end up with some holograms)

See my comments above...

 

[RudyQ]

Thanks for the fast and informative response Mike. I think I might owe you for some detailing classes already!

I wasn't aware that Meg's #45 was non abrasive. If I do end up needing to step up to Meg's #91 I'll try Meg's #49 heavy oxidation remover to clean up the buffer holograms on the makita with the polishing wool pad that came with it and see how that does.

I'm going to just use the pc with #45 since it's non abrasive. I was really impressed with how it finished out on the black.

I do have a spur I ordered with the rotary. Due to weather it looks like I'll be doing it tomorrow. Pictures to come!
I'm go