Controlling a rotary buffer!

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MJT

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Hi guys. I have recently started using a rotary buffer (Dewalt, 8" pads). However I have found controlling the buffer in smooth straight lines very difficult. It's like the buffer has a mind of its own at times and will try and go off in different directions. It will also tend to grip the paint at these times which makes it hard to control it. I have noticed I have the most control when I slightly have the pad at an angle, and with minimum pressure on the pad. On vertical panels I find it really hard to control the buffer! Sometimes the buffer will 'jump' which I assume is due to the pad needing cleaning at these points. I have been using plenty of product too, not sure if that's a problem or not.

Any tips on this would be really helpful!!!
 
MJT howdy, I do not use a rotary buffer but have seen a Video by Mike Philips. Mike shows you how to HOLD and Stand to control the rotary buffer. Sorry I don't have the link for this video. But it's here on AGO.
 
This one?

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPGDG41IbbE]Video Review: 4 Rotary Buffers with Mike Phillips at Autogeek - YouTube[/video]
 
MJT'

Here you are [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CI78DjvsLwA]How To: Rotary Polishing Tips & Tricks - Chemical Guys Car Care - YouTube[/video]
 
Rotary buffers is fairly easy to control. Make sure you have enough product on the pad and a nice backing plate. I recommend the backing place from 3M and some flat pads from Lake Country, it will erase buffer hops. Pads grabbing into the paint is the result of not laying the pad flat while spinning and dry buffing(not enough product on the pad):xyxthumbs:
 
Always try to have the polisher "pulling away" from you rather than "pushing toward" you. With practice you learn to let the direction of the rotation do the work of moving it for you.
 
To control a rotary, you gotta let it do its thing. Glide it around, and steer it mostly rom the rear handle and not the side handle. Keep it flat.

The hand on the side handle or the head of the polisher is just a guide. I find it much more smooth with the side handle off, and just guiding the polisher with my hand on the head.

I think when you try to "control" too much in perfect straight lines, youll tend to force the polisher where it naturally doesnt want to go, leaving more holograms and trails
 
One thing I would like to point out is that it is much harder to control a rotary with larger pads such as the 8" pads you mention. The larger the pad, the harder to control.

Step down to a smaller pad size such as 6.5".
 
Thanks a lot guys. I work for a detail shop where they only use rotary machines and I have been used to DA. So they don't really offer smaller pads for the rotary, but wish they did.

I have to say though the finish the rotary leaves does seem to be of a higher sharper gloss finish then the DA. Is that generally true of rotary buffers?

Thanks!
 
Rotary buffers cut faster and more efficiently than standard DA polishers with standard foam or wool pads. However, due to the nature of how they cut and polish, they can produce hologram trails while working with them. This is why you'll see a lot of rotary users switch to a DA type polisher to perform the finish polishing step - as excessive cut during this stage is not needed, and DAs are less likely to produce hologram trails in comparison.

And yes, you'll find it easier to control a rotary when using a smaller pad between 5-6" in diameter compared to the larger 8" pads. And those foam backing plates like the UK 3m Perfect-it foam backing plate or flex-foam HD backing plate can smooth out the handling. What you need to do is just continue to practice with the rotary, and eventually you'll figure out exactly how to control it based on the curvature of the panel you're working on. It may try to walk on you based on its forced rotation, and you can counter this walking tendency based on how you position the tool on the panel. My recommendation is that you start off slow - stay under 1500rpm until you really get a handle on controlling it. Even at slower rotation speeds the rotary does a fine job cutting and polishing, so there's no rush to increase the speed to a setting you're not comfortable handling, especially if the job doesn't call for serious defect removal and cutting action.
 
Bingo! Practice and refining your "feel" of the machine is key. I also lighten up my pressure when i sense it wants to go somewhere i don't want it to.

Your shop wants larger pads most likely to complete the work faster. Smaller pads are also key to controlling a rotary when first starting out (although i still don't use anything larger than 6.5" after years with mine). That's gonna have to do for you unless you want to equip yourself with smaller diameter BP's and pads but you can still refine your technique with larger pads. Lighten up the pressure to avoid "walking" and be comfortable with the forced rotation and the pad doing the work. Always work clean and don't saturate your pads with product. Change out to a fresh pad sooner as well.
 
This is really helpful, thank you. Another question - am I likely to leave swirls etc if I am only using a light cutting pad with a GS1 leveling polish (not compound)? I assume it's possible but less likely compared to a compound/medium cutting pad stage?
 
Have you ever used a 'floor buffer'?

Same technique as with a rotary buffer.

Bill
 
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