Correcting a 'wheeled hard' Jeep

Machine154

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Subject: 2009 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
Backstory: I am done offroading it and will be putting it back to stock. I want to get it back in nice aesthetic shape to drive it for awhile and then eventually sell it maybe in a year.
My detailing experience: Essentially none, other than claying and same Zaino stuff.
My tools: I have a Craftsman 3/8 HP 6" rotary, 1400 RPM & 1650 RPM. Just ordered adapter so I can run 5/8" backers. I expect that this will not be a career or lasting hobby, so I don't want to over-invest.
My initial questions: From reading the forum and seeing some videos, I know that DA units are safer, but I question that they have the capacity to correct my issues based on the other comments. I have deep glass scratches, paint scratches over a large portion of the vehicle, and plastic windows that need corrected also. Is it reasonable to pursue correcting this glass (see pic)? For the plastic softtop, can I use a polish like M205 or do I need to buy a separate one for plastic? If I am going to try to correct these paint scratches, do you envision that I should get a paint thickness gauge or I can get by without it? Should I use a smaller diameter backer and pad 4 3/4 backer and 5 or 6" pad to keep the heat/speed down to prevent damage since I am a rookie?
The pics:

smugshot9961717-M.jpg

Pillar

smugshot789470-M.jpg

Softtop Window

smugshot5698588-M.jpg

Paint

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Side window

Looking for any guidance I can get.

Thanks!!!
 
Bump. I'm curious if it's possible to get a defect free finish.


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Some of those scratches wont come out, as they look to have gone through the paint, and into the primer.

I think a glass polish would make your windshield 10x better, but not defect free.

You don't need to buy a paint thickness gauge, as you are going to be selling the car anyways.

TBH, I don't think you will be able to do much without a DA or something stronger than a drill.
 
Some of those scratches wont come out, as they look to have gone through the paint, and into the primer.

I think a glass polish would make your windshield 10x better, but not defect free.

You don't need to buy a paint thickness gauge, as you are going to be selling the car anyways.

TBH, I don't think you will be able to do much without a DA or something stronger than a drill.


:iagree: You will not get the Jeep 100%. Not even 90%. Some of the scratches require a repaint.

Ed
 
:iagree: You will not get the Jeep 100%. Not even 90%. Some of the scratches require a repaint.

Ed

I can accept that. How do I judge how far I can take it? and would you agree that a rotary is required for this work? Any other recommendations?
 
I can accept that. How do I judge how far I can take it? and would you agree that a rotary is required for this work? Any other recommendations?

If you see white instead of red, that scratch will never be fixed. White is primer.

No, a rotary is NOT required. In fact, considering you are new, do NOT buy or use a rotary. It is not something you want to just pick up and go at your car with.

Pick up a DA orbital polisher like the PC 7424 XP. You will need a pretty aggressive combo for your car, so what I would recommend is Meguiars Porter Cable Ultra Polish Kit with 5.5 Inch Pads, Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Polishing Kit, Meguiars polishes, Porter Cable 7424 Mirror Glaze
 
FWIW, Ceriglass on LC 5" Glass Cutting Discs didn't make any visual improvement and actually added some very fine scratches to the glass. I spent a lot of time trying to work one window and then even one small spot and had no luck whatsover. I would be buried in a pine box before having a chance or correcting the windows with this method

These new fine scratches couldn't be taken out with orange cutting pads and Ceriglass. I can't logic how this could work for anyone.

I did a small section of the body with M105 on a LC orange foam pad and my rotary. Huge improvement on the paint. I'm impressed with this stuff.
 
FWIW, Ceriglass on LC 5" Glass Cutting Discs didn't make any visual improvement and actually added some very fine scratches to the glass. I spent a lot of time trying to work one window and then even one small spot and had no luck whatsover. I would be buried in a pine box before having a chance or correcting the windows with this method

These new fine scratches couldn't be taken out with orange cutting pads and Ceriglass. I can't logic how this could work for anyone.

I did a small section of the body with M105 on a LC orange foam pad and my rotary. Huge improvement on the paint. I'm impressed with this stuff.

Those aren't scratches in the side windows...lol...they're gouges.:)
 
I have been told that if the scratch catches your finger nail it is too deep to fix completely.
 
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