Could I Repair This Bird Dropping Damage

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Aqmar

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Hi all~


Been onlooker for a while and learned a lot from the past few weeks. Thought still very new to detailing work itself (apart from the basic wash and wax). Anyhow, here's my question:

34drc0m.jpg



Could I still be able to repair / remove the bird dropping damage /etching above?


I know it looks very bad. My hood actually have a several spots of it. It made my stomach sick :( I'm a very careful person (but not so it seem). But only realize today when I want to give my car a routine weekend wash.


The picture given is the worst condition as it chiped (?) my paint. Will take pictures of the other damage spot later. Any helps will be really appreciated, espcially tools, specific products, steps needed to repair the damage (if it is possible). I wouldn't be able to give response as I'm off to work now, but will as soon as I get back. Thanks for reading. And sorry for my English as it's not my first language, so please excuse any mistakes. Look forward to hear from you guys!
 
Welcome to autogeek...as for your situation you may can if it's not baked into the finsh thought you will need to remove enough of the etched paint through abrasives to potentially bring back a flawless shine therefore my suggestion would be something like menzerna fg400, and microfiber cutting pad though do a couple of test spots with different pads to see what will work best without burning through the paint.
 
Looks like Type I bird dropping etching, which Mike Phillips explains here www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-to...s/24924-two-types-bird-dropping-etchings.html.

Mike Phillips: "Type I Topical Stain Etchings are usually only topical, that is shallow enough that they can be completely removed or at least greatly improved to the point where they are difficult to see. This type of etching can be removed using a clear coat safe compound or polish by hand or machine. Hand removal is almost always more efficient as you can exert more pressure to a small area and thus keep your work area isolated to just the affected area. By machine you can use a Spot Repair System, again to keep the work area isolated to just the affected area"

Like jamesboyy, my go-to compound is Menzerna Fast Gloss Compound, Fast Gloss 400, FG400 compound
 
It appears to me to have etched through the clear coat. If the paint is cracked and chipping then you won't be able to repair it without a repaint.
 
My friend had some etching like that on his corvette. I used a rupes lhr 75e, lake country green CCS, and DG 501 and I got it out.
 
When I click on the picture to bring up the full size version I see cracks in the paint so it's more like the Type II Fractured/Wrinkled Etching. Like this picture,



Type II Bird Dropping - Fractured/Wrinkled Etching
Type II Wrinkled Etchings are usually too deep to fix safely. The problem is the paint fractures, (splits apart in tiny lines,), or wrinkles as the paint swells and bunches together. In both instances, the resulting defect is throughout the clear layer of paint and not topical. Thus trying to remove it will require removing so much clear paint that you will likely expose the basecoat, or colored layer of paint which has a dull appearance. For this reason it's not safe to try to remove a Type II Bird Dropping Wrinkled or Fractured Etching.

BirdDroppingEtchingWrinkles.jpg




And my guess is what will happen when you compound or polish the area the residue will penetrate into the cracks like you see in the above picture and make it more visible.

I also don't think you'll be able to remove it 100% because the cracks on not ON the surface they run throughout the matrix of or thickness of the paint.

So the more you abrade the surface the more you expose cracked paint. By the time you abrade off enough paint to get past the end of the crack you'll likely be down to the basecoat.


Two Types of Bird Dropping Etchings


:)
 
Thank you all for the reply! Didn't expect for the fast responses. Really appreciated it.

I honestly not very sure the deep of the scratch, whether it already hit the base coat or not. As my previous experience only involved a very light scratch and swirl. I have uploaded another pictures, hopefully it could show the condition much clearly. It seems that two of the white spots means the color coat already been penetrated? As the paint already been lifted / flaked off, while the other affected paint area still “intact”.

Jamesboyy, would it be still effective if I’m only using a hand instead a polisher machine?

Reading from the link Mizzoutiger provided, I’m keener to say that I have a Type II bird dropping. It’s just that the white wrinkles are not very clear. I attached few pictures of this.

Thanks Hazcat and Jlt3 as well for the reply!

Also, what do you guys think about touch-up pens? It seem very plausible for my situation. I’m planning to use below links for my color matched of my car and instructions respectively:

https://www.genicolor.com/
How-To Repair Paint Chips & Deep Scratches
 
Thanks Mike for the confirmation! That's what I also thought. Just read your post, as I'm hanging on a message space for a while before posting my above reply :)
 
Touching up the paint is much more difficult than appyling paint on there, at least to make it look good.

I believe forum member Rasky to be very knowledgeable in touching up paint, and he's got threads here to document it. I'd read through his threads and see if this is something you'd like to try your hand at before committing to it.

With bird droppings/etching, I don't even know how effective the Dr. Colorchip method would be, as the paint is typically uneven where the damage has occurred. It might require some sanding, and then it's a whole other set of concerns.
 
Mizzoutiger said:
Looks like Type I bird dropping etching, which Mike Phillips explains here www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-to...s/24924-two-types-bird-dropping-etchings.html.

Mike Phillips: "Type I Topical Stain Etchings are usually only topical, that is shallow enough that they can be completely removed or at least greatly improved to the point where they are difficult to see. This type of etching can be removed using a clear coat safe compound or polish by hand or machine. Hand removal is almost always more efficient as you can exert more pressure to a small area and thus keep your work area isolated to just the affected area. By machine you can use a Spot Repair System, again to keep the work area isolated to just the affected area"

Like jamesboyy, my go-to compound is Menzerna Fast Gloss Compound, Fast Gloss 400, FG400 compound
Click to expand...
THIS, my boy just bought a new 14 Camaro "spring edition". And after inspection noticed a type 1 bird etching on the hood, I followed Mike's directions exactly as told with a MF pad and wolfgang compound and it removed it completely! Thanks MIKE for all your help:)
 
Sorry couldn't response much sooner as I had internet problem for the past few days. But, I just want to say thank you very much for the replies.

After doing some shopping and surveying around, it seem that the cost that I have to spend including shipping to my country to buy everything needed (starting from scratch) to touch paint the bird dropping type 2 damage is almost $100 (in my local currency). With no guarantee *I* could "remove" the damage or at least to make it look "perfect" / "nice" if it could. Compare if I just send my car to pro auto paint shop, which only cost slightly much more of $150 to repaint the whole hood. Though I haven't really decide.

Nevertheless, I really gain a lot of new information from making this thread. Still many to digest. So, thanks again. I will try to give update of my progress :xyxthumbs:
 
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