Coworker used 150 grit on his hood...

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mbanks21

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I can get pics but it's been raining all week. He has a black G35 that had a scratch on the hood so he thought he'd be smart and sand it out. Unfortunately he used 150 grit sandpaper. Do you think this is able to be saved? I have 1500 and 2000 grit and Meg's UC/ LC Orange and purple wool pads. I don't want to make the car worse...
 
Well you could try, its probably already going to need a respray.

My guess is you should save your buffing tools for after he gets his super cheapo respray, or his DIY attempt as this guy does not sound like the sharpest tool in the shed and will likely not get it done right.
 
That's what I was afraid of. I'll try to get some pics today if it's not pouring outside. Thanks!
 
If he hit it with 150 grit its done man...

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mbanks21 said:
I can get pics but it's been raining all week. He has a black G35 that had a scratch on the hood so he thought he'd be smart and sand it out. Unfortunately he used 150 grit sandpaper. Do you think this is able to be saved? I have 1500 and 2000 grit and Meg's UC/ LC Orange and purple wool pads.
Click to expand...
•Has the CC (or any of the underlying film coat layers) already been compromised?
•What polishers do you have?
•How much you gonna charge to try and fix this?

mbanks21 said:
I don't want to make the car worse...
Click to expand...
•How much stress can you, (and possibly your wallet), tolerate?
-Do you think the co-worker would be willing to sign a waiver: (basically releasing you from damages for
any of your "fixing-attempts")?

-Might it not be best to leave it alone...if you're genuinely worried about making it worse?!?!


Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
•Has the CC (or any of the underlying film coat layers) been compromised?
•What polishers do you have?
•How much you gonna charge to try and fix this?


•How much stress can you, (and possibly your wallet), tolerate?
-Do you think the co-worker would be willing to sign a waiver:
(basically releasing you from damages for any "fixing-attempts")
-Might it not be best to leave it alone...if you're genuinely worried about making it worse?!?!


Bob
Click to expand...

I'm at work so I'll go check it out again. Hopefully he feathered it and didn't go to town on it. I have a RO buffer and all the compounds/polishes so I'm not worried about that part. I had planned on doing his whole car for around $200, may have to bump that up a little depending on the hood. I might do a small (1"x1") test spot but I may end up telling him to ride the rails.
 
I don't think you'll ever get 150 scratches out without going through the CC at the very least. I think it's going to need to be re-clear coated.
 
Wow!

I've heard and seen people use Scotchbrite pads, caveman compound, etc on their car I don't think I've ever heard of anyone using #150 grit sandpaper on their car's paint.

That's some really aggressive sandpaper.

I'd buff it how you were normally going to buff it and this will remove all the light scratches and reveal the deepest scratches that remain and then you and your buddy inspect the results.

It should be a real eye opener.

It's amazing how deep scratches look when they are all shined up and the clarity is restored to the entire panel.

I buffed out a Nova over the weekend as well as the flamed coupe and after the compounding step the RIDS simply stick out like a sore thumb.



:)
 
What's his next trick--throwing rocks at the car?

Be sure to comfort him that he'll probably need a respray, and that in your possible attempt to fix it, it could make it look worse. That way, you're covered no matter what, and if it turns out okay, you'll look like a champion.
 
lol at everyone. He's from another country so maybe that's how they roll over there. Anyway I just went out to his car again and it's very light, so I'm assuming he hardly put any pressure on it at all.
0922140959.jpg
 
Ideally you need to get a paint gauge on it to know whether or not you have anything to play with. If the paint is nice and deep at that point you might just get away with wet sanding and then machining it out, if it's already in the 100 micron range, he's probably had it. At the end of the day the worst he's looking at is a respray. if you have a go and go through the clear coat trying to get it out, he's still looking at a respray so nothing to lose by trying. Just make sure he knows that if he asks you to attempt the removal, he accepts responsibility for the respray costs if you can't fix it. You don't want to be left holding the baby.
 
Honestly that picture doesn't look that bad. It may just be the lighting or the angle. Here is my thought, if he is going to respray anyway, go ahead and try smoothing it out with some fine grit papers if he's doing a respray anyway it's not going to hurt. Just make sure he is aware that it could end up worse. It looks like he may have just used that 150 real light. I've found that when working with filler it takes a decent grit paper to remove anything rougher than 200 grit scratches. So you will probably have a lot of work ahead of yourself trying to fix his mistakes.
 
Well if you hit that area with the buffer you are going to have to do the whole area to fix those waterspots as well.
 
Thanks for the tips everyone.

It doesn't look as bad as he initially suggested but the entire car needs a buffing to get these water spots out. I'll have him sign something saying I'm not responsible for the outcome plus I have numerous coworkers as witnesses that he used the roughest SP he can find. As soon as it stops raining in FL I'll do my best and keep you guys updated.
 
Maybe you could spray some clear in that area? To fill in the scratches.
I would try a small test spot of a higher grit sandpaper and see what it does and go from there
 
If you do attempt to fix that, have him put it in writing that he did that and won't hold you liable for any further problems you might encounter trying to fix it!
 
That does not look to me like he did nearly the damage I though from your initial description

If you are comfortable damp sanding with 2000, I would suggest that as a starting point. Use a foam backer. Check your progress after 15 strokes. Read Mike P's threads on wet sanding.

After it is knocked down, compound and polish as normal. Make sure you do not concentrate too much energy/heat in the area of the defect. Make it part if a normal 2' x 2' section.

You are, IMO, safer sanding that, than you are trying to compound it out start to finish


Ask someone to take some good before and afters


For goodness sake, talk him into letting you do the entire car, those water spots are only going to get worse

Good Luck & Have Fun
 
KillaCam said:
Maybe you could spray some clear in that area? To fill in the scratches. I would try a small test spot of a higher grit sandpaper and see what it does and go from there
Click to expand...

Have you used this technique in the past?

I have never seen it done effectively

Post some Before & After's and the specifics of your technique
 
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