So when my dog has to go the veterinarian, and they give me options, I always ask, "Doc, what would you do if this were YOUR dog?" Then I get my answer.
IMO, if this was MY CAR... I would carve out two days to "do the needful." Doing the needful is basically following the tried and true steps, as I've learned from Mike Philips, Renny Doyle and Jason Rose.
First, how do you know that the car wasn't prepared properly? One drive home from the shop and any car has the potential to fail a baggy test to some degree. With that said, you're asking if you should clay or not clay... Those were the two options given, yet, you said you clayed and felt it was getting off decontamination... So I guess you're claying..
Ok, if it were my car I would do it properly myself to give it a full fresh new beginning:
- Engine / Engine bay
- Wheels / Tires / Wheel Wells
- Iron-X (done in the shade, let it dwell per instructions) --> Go right to foam bath
- Foam Bath 2 bm / 2 wash mitts and agitate the soap / iron-x mix....
- Rinse
- Inspect the paint / do
the baggy test...
- Clay (you can use clay or a nano-skin mitt). For my cars, I use Pinnacle Fine Poly Clay and Megs D114 as my clay lubricant. D114 is no longer available but it's replacement is McKee's 37 N914. The reason for this is it will leave nothing behind... no wax no fillers.
- After clay, inspect the paint. If you want to use a coating you have to used a dedicated polish. At present, I believe the only AIO for coatings is CarPro Essence.
- Paint Correction ---> do a test spot... See what least aggressive pad and product will yield the highest results. Use lots of pads. (typically 6 for an entire vehicle).
- Inspect the paint... Make sure you eliminated any marring or light scratches... Don't get OCD on a few random scratches that didn't come out during the polishing session. You'll get into trouble real fast if you start chasing those down.
- Wipe down - Either an IPA or Car Pro Erasure: I like Erasure because it's all pre mixed and it's bubba proof and it has lubricity... It smells nice too. It's pricy but I know what results I'll get and I know I wont be putting scratches back in the car.
- Apply the coating... Make sure you do a test spot... time / temp / humidity all play a factor. USE LOTS of Car Pro MF/Sued towels. Always follow up with a second towel. Change them out often. Use a good light, like Scangrip, or even better have a second person with a Scangrip follow behind you. If you don't have a second person, work in small sections... but be DARN sure you get every bit of it off because once it dries... you're fighting high spots.
- Final inspection
- Finish the detailing ---> coating plastics, trim, tail lights, wheels... dress wheels, etc...
That's what I would do....
