Cquartz uk cure then gliss

[mrmarkmac]

I’m putting on CQ 3.0 today and plan to put on GLISS as top coat. It’s not my DD so I can either let CQ cure for a day and then GLISS or just the 4h min. In fact I can leave the CQ to cure all week if there’s any benefit as it’s in a garage.

my question is whether there is any benefit to letting CQ cure longer than the min 4h before GLISS?

I assume if I leave it a few days to cure I just do a quick earser pass before GLISS?

 

[The Guz]

I’m putting on CQ 3.0 today and plan to put on GLISS as top coat. It’s not my DD so I can either let CQ cure for a day and then GLISS or just the 4h min. In fact I can leave the CQ to cure all week if there’s any benefit as it’s in a garage.

my question is whether there is any benefit to letting CQ cure longer than the min 4h before GLISS?

I assume if I leave it a few days to cure I just do a quick earser pass before GLISS?

No added benefit letting CQUK sit for a week prior to applying Gliss. You are fine after 4 hours.

In my opinion get it done all in one day or the following day.

 

[fightnews]

I’m putting on CQ 3.0 today and plan to put on GLISS as top coat. It’s not my DD so I can either let CQ cure for a day and then GLISS or just the 4h min. In fact I can leave the CQ to cure all week if there’s any benefit as it’s in a garage.

my question is whether there is any benefit to letting CQ cure longer than the min 4h before GLISS?

I assume if I leave it a few days to cure I just do a quick earser pass before GLISS?

If you did that in my garage you would scratch the living daylights out of it. I know my garage is prob way more dusty then most but I have to do a quick waterless if I leave it sitting any amount of time even hours. The dust builds up very fast for me.

 

[mrmarkmac]

Thanks. I’m planning two coats of CQ and then will wait 4h and do earaser then GLISS.

 

[The Guz]

Thanks. I’m planning two coats of CQ and then will wait 4h and do earaser then GLISS.

Skip Eraser after CQUK. Get yourself a plush towel and just have it barely touch the surface and let the microfiber pick up whatever dust has accumulated on the surface. I doubt you will have that much dust in 4 hours. Not to mention that you don't want to disturb the uncured coats of CQUK.

 

[mrmarkmac]

Skip Eraser after CQUK. Get yourself a plush towel and just have it barely touch the surface and let the microfiber pick up whatever dust has accumulated on the surface. I doubt you will have that much dust in 4 hours. Not to mention that you don't want to disturb the uncured coats of CQUK.

Perfect. Thanks for the advice. What had be guessing was the CQ instructions. Says second coat 45-60 min after first, otherwise wait a day. However GLISS says wait 4h. Just seemed like there must be. Cure time somewhere between 60 min and one day, but GLISS is fine but after 4h.

ill drop the eraser step after CQ.

 

[atgonzales]

What Guz said....

 

[Bruno Soares]

Perfect. Thanks for the advice. What had be guessing was the CQ instructions. Says second coat 45-60 min after first, otherwise wait a day. However GLISS says wait 4h. Just seemed like there must be. Cure time somewhere between 60 min and one day, but GLISS is fine but after 4h.

ill drop the eraser step after CQ.

It’s because more than an hour CQ UK is already too far in the curing process and applying a second coat then causes a hazy mess. So must be done before it gets to that point or only next day after it’s cured enough to not give you a hard time.

 

[mrmarkmac]

It’s because more than an hour CQ UK is already too far in the curing process and applying a second coat then causes a hazy mess. So must be done before it gets to that point or only next day after it’s cured enough to not give you a hard time.

Good to know. Thanks for the tip. So I assume after 4h GLISS doesn’t have the haze issue and CQ is far enough along.

given this is my first time with CQ I’m not sure I’ll be done the first coat of within 60 min so may need to wait over night.

 

[Bruno Soares]

Good to know. Thanks for the tip. So I assume after 4h GLISS doesn’t have the haze issue and CQ is far enough along.

given this is my first time with CQ I’m not sure I’ll be done the first coat of within 60 min so may need to wait over night.

What you can do is start a timer as you begin and as it approaches 1 hour stop at your current panel and repeat the same ones you did at first. Then do the rest of the car which should take less than 1 hour and repeat those panels. Helps you get the 2 coats down without having to wait overnight. If you have time do gliss after 4 hours, if not do that one next day. I find that layering coatings works better if you do while they’re not far along the curing process and you get more out of it. If they are too cured they reject the new coat (depends on what you’re using) and most of that new coat gets wiped away.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

What you can do is start a timer as you begin and as it approaches 1 hour stop at your current panel and repeat the same ones you did at first. Then do the rest of the car which should take less than 1 hour and repeat those panels. Helps you get the 2 coats down without having to wait overnight. If you have time do gliss after 4 hours, if not do that one next day. I find that layering coatings works better if you do while they’re not far along the curing process and you get more out of it. If they are too cured they reject the new coat (depends on what you’re using) and most of that new coat gets wiped away.

Pretty much how I did it when I wanted to finish 2 layers of Cquartz UK 3 and 1 layer of Gliss V2 in a single day. Was a new F250 Super Duty pickup, broke into cab-forward and cab-back sections, each of which I could cover with the UK in about 45 minutes.

1st layer on 'cab forward' took about 45 minutes, then did 2nd layer. Same deal for the 'cab back' section. By the time I was with the 2nd layer on the back section, waited about 3hrs and then did the entire thing with the Gliss. Came out very nice, good stuff.

 

[mrmarkmac]

What you can do is start a timer as you begin and as it approaches 1 hour stop at your current panel and repeat the same ones you did at first. Then do the rest of the car which should take less than 1 hour and repeat those panels. Helps you get the 2 coats down without having to wait overnight. If you have time do gliss after 4 hours, if not do that one next day. I find that layering coatings works better if you do while they’re not far along the curing process and you get more out of it. If they are too cured they reject the new coat (depends on what you’re using) and most of that new coat gets wiped away.

Because it was my first time using CQ, I started pretty slow. My 45 min alarm went off after the trunk and first rear corner panel. So I just went back and re-did them. After that I picked up sped but basically broke the car up in 4 sections and did second coat before starting the next.

I was really impressed with Eraser doing two pre-wipe downs before CQ. Caught a couple small patches of polish that just wiped right off.

Pretty much how I did it when I wanted to finish 2 layers of Cquartz UK 3 and 1 layer of Gliss V2 in a single day. Was a new F250 Super Duty pickup, broke into cab-forward and cab-back sections, each of which I could cover with the UK in about 45 minutes.

1st layer on 'cab forward' took about 45 minutes, then did 2nd layer. Same deal for the 'cab back' section. By the time I was with the 2nd layer on the back section, waited about 3hrs and then did the entire thing with the Gliss. Came out very nice, good stuff.

GLISS is good stuff. I was amazed at how much more slick it felt after my first test area. Dragging the MF across GLISS vs just CQ was a huge difference. Even buffing it off seemed so slick.

My only negative about Gliss was how hard it is to see flash. I tried leaving it for 30 sec, 1 min, 2 min and probably a little more, and each time I couldn't see much, if any white reside, but it just wiped right off. My fear is I missed some somewhere.

I now understand why Carpro suggest great ambient light and not spot lighting. I wish I had better lighting for the sides of the car. Trunk, roof and hood were all easy to pickup high spots. What I found worked best on the sides was to setup a shop light at one end of the car, and look at the side of the car with the shop light behind me. I even turned off all the lights and used a high power flash light that highlighted a few high spots because there was no other light source to camouflage it.

Long two days but so worth it. In the end I did the following on a virtually brand new car;

Spray down, foam cannon wash, spray down.
MF Mitt wash and spray down
IronX, then MF Mitt wash, foam cannon, spray down
Dry
Clay
Tape trim
Polish with 205
2 x Eraser wipe down
2 X CQuarts UK 3.0
Gliss

Now I need to do wheels and trim with DLUX, and leather coatings next weekend. Hopefully its just easy street for the next year with Reset washes.

Anyone have suggestions for how to coat a honeycomb plastic grill with DLUX? I may just do Gliss given how easy it was to wipe, as they honeycombs are only big enough to put one finger in. They are the one spot where water and dirt settle after a wash and always seemed to leave a little residue. Would love to have them slick so water can just be blown out after wash.

 

[SWETM]

Because it was my first time using CQ, I started pretty slow. My 45 min alarm went off after the trunk and first rear corner panel. So I just went back and re-did them. After that I picked up sped but basically broke the car up in 4 sections and did second coat before starting the next.

I was really impressed with Eraser doing two pre-wipe downs before CQ. Caught a couple small patches of polish that just wiped right off.



GLISS is good stuff. I was amazed at how much more slick it felt after my first test area. Dragging the MF across GLISS vs just CQ was a huge difference. Even buffing it off seemed so slick.

My only negative about Gliss was how hard it is to see flash. I tried leaving it for 30 sec, 1 min, 2 min and probably a little more, and each time I couldn't see much, if any white reside, but it just wiped right off. My fear is I missed some somewhere.

I now understand why Carpro suggest great ambient light and not spot lighting. I wish I had better lighting for the sides of the car. Trunk, roof and hood were all easy to pickup high spots. What I found worked best on the sides was to setup a shop light at one end of the car, and look at the side of the car with the shop light behind me. I even turned off all the lights and used a high power flash light that highlighted a few high spots because there was no other light source to camouflage it.

Long two days but so worth it. In the end I did the following on a virtually brand new car;

Spray down, foam cannon wash, spray down.
MF Mitt wash and spray down
IronX, then MF Mitt wash, foam cannon, spray down
Dry
Clay
Tape trim
Polish with 205
2 x Eraser wipe down
2 X CQuarts UK 3.0
Gliss

Now I need to do wheels and trim with DLUX, and leather coatings next weekend. Hopefully its just easy street for the next year with Reset washes.

Anyone have suggestions for how to coat a honeycomb plastic grill with DLUX? I may just do Gliss given how easy it was to wipe, as they honeycombs are only big enough to put one finger in. They are the one spot where water and dirt settle after a wash and always seemed to leave a little residue. Would love to have them slick so water can just be blown out after wash.

Cut the coating applicator to fit in the honeycomb grill with a cut up suede applicator towel on it. And the same process when wipe it off or level it. Could maybe work?

 

[Bruno Soares]

Anyone have suggestions for how to coat a honeycomb plastic grill with DLUX? I may just do Gliss given how easy it was to wipe, as they honeycombs are only big enough to put one finger in. They are the one spot where water and dirt settle after a wash and always seemed to leave a little residue. Would love to have them slick so water can just be blown out after wash.

I used a Poly-Foam Tipped Swab. Not finding many options (if any) at Autogeek. I got mine elsewhere.

 

[Eldorado2k]

Anyone have suggestions for how to coat a honeycomb plastic grill with DLUX? I may just do Gliss given how easy it was to wipe, as they honeycombs are only big enough to put one finger in. They are the one spot where water and dirt settle after a wash and always seemed to leave a little residue. Would love to have them slick so water can just be blown out after wash.

Reading this has finally given me a good reason to look into buying an SiO2 spray on hose off coating.

Normally what I do is hit those grills with a boars hair brush dipped in plenty of suds at the end of a wash, then finish off the rinse at the grill and immediately blow dry the grill 1st in order to help prevent any spotting, but something like McKee’s Hydro Blue should make a big difference or what do you guys think?

 

[mrmarkmac]

Reading this has finally given me a good reason to look into buying an SiO2 spray on hose off coating.

Normally what I do is hit those grills with a boars hair brush dipped in plenty of suds at the end of a wash, then finish off the rinse at the grill and immediately blow dry the grill 1st in order to help prevent any spotting, but something like McKee’s Hydro Blue should make a big difference or what do you guys think?

Actually maybe I just tape off the area and hit it with reload. Then use reload at end of each wash on grill only.

 

[Eldorado2k]

Actually maybe I just tape off the area and hit it with reload. Then use reload at end of each wash on grill only.

That sounds like alot of work. Just imagine trying to wipe in reload on this grill after every wash. Lol.

I’d rather just spray and blow dry.

 

[mrmarkmac]

I was thinking of just spraying reload to properly apply. Easier than applying by hand with DLUX. Then whenever I wash just spray on grill when wet as a drying agent.

I have an upper and lower Grill with as many holes but smaller. That’s why I’m trying to figure out how to easily do it and avoid any significant maintenance for a while.

 

[Eldorado2k]

I was thinking of just spraying reload to properly apply. Easier than applying by hand with DLUX. Then whenever I wash just spray on grill when wet as a drying agent.

I have an upper and lower Grill with as many holes but smaller. That’s why I’m trying to figure out how to easily do it and avoid any significant maintenance for a while.

Have you tried Reload before?

If you spray Reload as a drying aid after every wash you’ll still have to reach your finger into every nook & cranny of the grill. That’s pretty tedious.

 

[mrmarkmac]

No, never tried it but now that you describe the process I won’t be for this purpose. I thought it may be an easier application than CQ or DLUX because you spray it.