Curveball....need some advice on old single stage

JCDetails

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So, as a result of completing a few jobs for happy customers, my base of contact is expanding pretty steadily. "Nice cars bring more nice cars" and all that. Seeing mostly newer luxury vehicles popping onto the radar.


A job that has come up as a result of this that has me really excited is a 1987 Mercedes 560SL in Black over Tan. I love those old benzes. The owner says it's been pretty well cared for but "has not been waxed in a long time" and there's also apparently what looks like a key scratch to deal with. I'm going to head out this Saturday to take a look in person and quote it out. No paint work to their knowledge so I'm assuming it's original paint which at that time I believe Mercedes was using Single Stage as were many manufacturers.

I'm thinking the comment about how long it's been since it's been 'waxed' according to the owner likely means oxidized paint. That's no big deal, I could try the old #7 rub-down method prior to some polishing as I've seen Mike P write about before. Or I could just see how it reacts to some compound dependent upon the PTG readings I get.

What I'm wondering is if the scratch can be dealt with in the same manner as a base/clear scratch would be. I figure it'll be one of two things: 1.) being soft black and single stage, I may just be able to compound the scratch right out of it. Or #2.) I'll have to wetsand being more cautious than normal. This of course if the scratch is deeper than expected.

So, who's worked on old benz paint, particularly black, and what have you had success with?
 
I’ve worked on those older models, some were clear coat others not. If single stage it shouldn’t be too difficult to revive it, if however clear coat, those were prone to failing or peeling.
 
I’ve worked on those older models, some were clear coat others not. If single stage it shouldn’t be too difficult to revive it, if however clear coat, those were prone to failing or peeling.

I feel like I'll be able to, but any tips on deciphering failing 30 year old clear coat vs oxidized single stage?
 
I feel like I'll be able to, but any tips on deciphering failing 30 year old clear coat vs oxidized single stage?

Easy, test spot. If you manage to revive the paint and see paint transfer on the pad it’s single stage and you can continue merrily. If you see flaking or no gloss revival after a test spot its clear coat and needs a repaint.
 
That's for certain, but I was wondering if there are any visual cues that might indicate it without having to do a test spot, for the purposes of quoting out the job.
 
That's for certain, but I was wondering if there are any visual cues that might indicate it without having to do a test spot, for the purposes of quoting out the job.

Clear coat failure is easy to spot but a test spot will do wonders in quoting and gauging customer requirements and satisfaction.
 
If you don't want to do a whole test spot you can just rub a little polish with a MF towel on the paint and look for color transfer. Also, the old single stage paint doesn't tend to cloud up and look to be peeling like old clear coat would so that's a visual cue to look for. Another thing to look at is if any panels have been repainted throughout the years and repaints tend to be 2 stage rather than single stage a lot of the time. I've worked on many older classics that had this situation.

BTW metering the paint is highly recommended for those older cars especially single stage paint since it's often thinner than 2 stage paint to begin with.
 
As for the key scratch, I'd be very careful on what you promise. Obviously I can't make any absolute recommendation not having seen it but I can caution you to beware. Just the word "key scratch" is scary.

Unless you have experience with touching up damage like this I'd be very careful in setting yours and your customer's expectations. Polishing away a "key scratch" is nothing more than wishful thinking in most cases.
 
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