cutting and polishing products - relative grits

S

sprinter

New member
Joined
Sep 23, 2010
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
I'm in process of learning this stuff the hard way (the only way I know) and I have some questions for you experts.

I am confused by the relative grits and cutting abilities of different products.

Can you list in order of grit or cutting ability of these products (feel free to include anything else you may think of):

1000 - 2000 wet/dry sandpaper common rubbing compound (like Turtle Wax, for example) common polishing compound.

Grades 1-4 of polishes from Maquires, Griot's, etc.

Also, what would you recommend after wet sanding a clearcoat (non-hardened U-pol #1) to fill the sanding, and final polish?

This is a single stage clear coat over a metallic single stage acrylic enamel.

I may have to wetsand it for overspray fogging from this job to make it more uniform looking, although I would like to try a polishing method first, but I don't know whether to try the polish "systems" or rubbing compound first or what.

I'll be using a DA polisher. Thanks!
 
I'm not sure why the first post turned out with no paragraph returns, etc. I think it was use of an unusual browser. Here's a repost:

I'm in process of learning this stuff the hard way (the only way I know) and I have some questions for you experts.

I am confused by the relative grits and cutting abilities of different products. Can you list in order of grit or cutting ability of these products (feel free to include anything else you may think of):

1000 - 2000 wet/dry sandpaper
common rubbing compound (like Turtle Wax, for example)
common polishing compound "
grades 1-4 of polishes from Maquires, Griot's, etc.

Also, what would you recommend after wet sanding a clearcoat (non-hardened U-pol #1) to fill the sanding, and final polish? This is a single stage clear coat over a metallic single stage acrylic enamel.

I may have to wetsand it for overspray fogging from this job to make it more uniform looking, although I would like to try a polishing method first, but I don't know whether to try the polish "systems" or rubbing compound first or what.

I'll be using a DA polisher.

Thanks!
 
What are you working on?

  • Car?
  • Truck?
  • Wheelbarrow?


sprinter said:
I'll be using a DA polisher.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

To remove sanding marks?

Is this going to be over the entire car?
How long ago was this car painted?


It can be done but it will take you a while, you'll probably want to get some Surbuf pads and M105...

I'm sure others will chime in and I'll check on this thread tomorrow and see if I can add anything but time to push away from the keyboard right now..


:)
 
TornadoRed: Thanks for the link. That is an interesting and helpful chart. Do you know where Turtle Wax Rubbing and Polishing compounds fit in there?

Mike: Thanks for fixing my first post. I was using a browser called Seamonkey under Linux. This is Firefox under Linux. I guess Seamonkey is incompatible with this forum for some reason.

Okay, here's the whole story. I was trying to fix a '89 Mercury Grand Marquis with failed clearcoat. No money for a proper paint job. It was badly flaking in white sheets. I was able to pretty well get the old clearcoat off with a razor blade and wet sand the rest pretty smooth. The only surfaces I needed to fix were the hood and top. I painted these panels with rattle cans of Sherwin Williams Acrylic Enamel using the original color code, which matched nicely but of course showed uneven spraying and fogging because the stuff dries so fast, you can't keep a wet edge on large panels. Then I applied U-pol #1 Clearcoat with UV which is really nice stuff, but also shows uneven spraying on the big panels. So, this is where I am now. I just want to make it look more uniform. Only the hood and top need work.

I figured i would color sand to get it uniform, then polish that out as necessary. However, I'm wondering if I could just try an aggressive polish system with a DA polisher and skip the sanding. I already have inexpensive Rubbing compound and Polishing compound, but I don't know if this would be the right way to start. Also, I don't know what to finish the sanding job with if I need to go that route.

I have little money and a lot of time, so am willing to experiment some, but I don't want to ruin anything. I know not to sand the metallic paint but this is all clearcoat (non-catalized so it's not super hard) , and was applied about a month ago.

Thanks for the prompt replies!

Ron

PS, Next time (and I think there is one coming up), it's going to be with a compressor, HVLP sprayer and 2-stage paint!
 
Honestly, you should forget any Turtle Wax products, especially the polishing compounds, they are just not high quality. There are lots of great products out there to choose from, Meguiar's, Menzerna just to name a few.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top