Cyclo Polisher Buffer Hands-On Detailing Classes at Autogeek

Joined
Dec 5, 2022
Messages
51,004
Reaction score
6
Cyclo Polisher Buffer Hands-On Detailing Classes at Autogeek


1958 Plymouth Fury - Show Car Makeover with Cyclo & Pinnacle


Step 1 - Clean car
As a personal best practice for myself and one I pass on to every person that attends our detailing classes is using a Waterless Wash to wash classics, muscle cars and street rods and of course I explain why in the class.

Using Pinnacle Liquid Crystal Waterless Wash with Carnauba to clean the 1958 Plymouth .

watermark.php


watermark.php




Step 2 - Inspect paint

When inspecting the paint we inspect for,

  • Above surface bonded contaminants
  • Below surface defects like swirls and scratches


After removing the loose dirt it's time to inspect the paint by feeling it with our bare hands. The paint on this car was heavily contaminated.

watermark.php



Next we go over how and why to do the Baggie Test to inspect the paint.

watermark.php



The Hulk Technique
I like to show the Hulk technique for kneading a clay bar into a clay patty.

watermark.php


watermark.php


watermark.php





Step 3 - Remove above surface bonded contaminants


Then we go over the proper techniques for rubbing detailing clay over paint.

watermark.php



Inspecting after claying - now the paint feels smooth like glass....

watermark.php




After demonstrating the correct techniques for using detailing clay it's time for the class to beg busy. The paint is contaminated so everyone gets their own piece of clay to clay the paint.

watermark.php


watermark.php


watermark.php


watermark.php



Whoa.... who's that with the video camera?

watermark.php




:)
 
Step 4 - Perform a Test Spot and dial in the compounding and polishing process

This is without a doubt the most important part of buffing out the paint on any car. It's important to do a little testing to see which combination of pads and products produce the best results.

Once a selection of pads and products are proven to work it's then just a matter of duplicate the process to the rest of the car.


Showing the class how to do a Test Spot using the Cyclo Polisher

watermark.php


watermark.php




:)
 
Step 5 - Machine Compounding

After the paint is smooth and clean and we've performed our test spot it's hands-on training time where the class puts the Cyclo Polisher to work removing holograms out of the single stage paint.


Here's Chris and Rob working on the back of this HUGE car!

watermark.php



Here's Darrell working on the roof of the 1958 Plymouth Fury...

watermark.php


watermark.php


watermark.php



Here's Walter working on the passenger front fender...

watermark.php


watermark.php



Here's Rob compounding the passenger side door....

watermark.php


watermark.php



:xyxthumbs:
 
Step 6 - Machine Polishing
In this picture the class had finished the compounding step and is now machine polishing using Cyclo green foam polishing pads and Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish.

watermark.php





Step 7 - Machine Waxing
After machine compound and machine polishing the class machine applied a coat of Pinnacle Liquid Souverän Wax using the Cyclo polisher and the Cyclo white foam finishing/waxing pads.



:)
 
Finished!

This car came out simply incredible! I'm confident the paint looks better today than it did back in 1958 when it was sitting on the show room floor of some Plymouth New Car Dealership somewhere....


watermark.php




Nice work class!


:dblthumb2:
 
Mike, do you use the Cyclo much? What benefits does the Cyclo have over the Rupes or Flex?
 
Mike, do you use the Cyclo much?

No, not really. I do believe it's important to include it in both our car detailing classes for paint correction, polishing and waxing and we also show it for machine scrubbing carpets and upholstery.

I normally don't have the time to process ALL the pictures taken during our 3 day boot camp classes but we do use the Cyclo to clean upholstery and we do take pictures of this tool in action cleaning carpets and upholstery, I just can't squeeze in the time to make the pictures magically appear on the forum.

Pictures, done well are time consuming.

I also show the Cyclo in our boat detailing classes for cleaning non-skid by machine.


What benefits does the Cyclo have over the Rupes or Flex?

For a real benefit there's an pneumatic version which can be a safe alternative for polishing boat on the water to avoid electrical shock.


As for performance benefit all three tools will do the same things,

  1. Correct paint - compounding
  2. Polish paint
  3. Machine seal paint with a wax or sealant

What it really comes down to is personal preference. Some people like Coke and some people like Pepsi.

What I like to do in our detailing classes is show all the students all of the tools and how to correctly use them. Then give them something FUN to use them on like for this last class a 1958 Plymouth Fury.

When is the last time you saw a detailing class anywhere in the WORLD where the students get to work on as many cool cars as they get to work on here at the Autogeek classes?

Not only is it important to me for our classes to be intensely educational but also a lot of fun. It's a great combination for real learning for a lifetime.

Plus after going through our class and getting as much hands-on time as the students get they figure out which tools work best for them. You cannot possibly know if you like a tool if you have never used the tool.

In our classes you get to use the Cyclo polishers. You get the experience so now you have an opinion based upon real-world, hands-on experience.




The Cyclo does work great for mechanically decontaminating paint. I have a few articles on this topic,




How to use 4" Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads on the Cyclo Polisher


4" Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads
CycloAutoscrub001.jpg





Related articles.....





How to remove overspray paint using the Cyclo Polisher

1949_Chevy_Truck_025.jpg




How to clean your Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads

Cyclo_Nanoskin_Pads_003.jpg
 
We have all the varioius models of the Cyclo Dual Head Oribital Polishers for our students to use at our hand-son detailing classes here at Autogeek.

watermark.php



We bring in 1-2 full size cars for each Cyclo Polisher Detailing Class so everyone gets plenty of real-world, hands on experience using these legendary polishers.


To attend the next class,

Click this link to sign up online


Or call Nick at the number below as he can answer any questions you have and help you to get signed up over the phone.


1-800-869-3011 x215



You can find more information about what you'll be doing when you attend one of our classes here,

Next Detailing Boot Camp Class - September 25th, 26th & 27th



:)
 
I have a 09' Black Silverado with light scratches and swirls/cobwebbing. I have WG Uber Compound and Finishing Glaze. Just wondering if you think I will be able to correct well with the Orange pads for compounding or the Yellow? Also, i'm not sure which pads to use for the glaze?

Thank you!
 
I have a 09' Black Silverado with light scratches and swirls/cobwebbing. I have WG Uber Compound and Finishing Glaze. Just wondering if you think I will be able to correct well with the Orange pads for compounding or the Yellow? Also, i'm not sure which pads to use for the glaze?

Thank you!

......
 
I have a 09' Black Silverado with light scratches and swirls/cobwebbing. I have WG Uber Compound and Finishing Glaze. Just wondering if you think I will be able to correct well with the Orange pads for compounding or the Yellow?

Also, i'm not sure which pads to use for the glaze?

Thank you!




Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, shooting new project in the studio all day today, tomorrow and Thursday, so not much online time.


For light scratches and swirling the Cyclo Orange pads should work. To be honest, most of the time I use the yellow pads just for the extra abrading power.

One thing for sure, Cyclo pads are WELL MADE and also work great on the Porter Cable, Megs and Griot's polishers when a person needs a 4" pad.


For the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, which is not really a glaze in the traditional sense or use of the word in this industry), but is a Fine Cut Polish.

Stick with the Green Cyclo Pads if you have them. The blue and white Cyclo pads are really pretty soft and don't offer much in the way of cut and as it applies to what you want to do they don't offer much in the way of clean-up after a compounding step.


Foam Pads, Brushes and Accessories for the Cyclo Polisher


Hope that helps...


:)
 
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, shooting new project in the studio all day today, tomorrow and Thursday, so not much online time.


For light scratches and swirling the Cyclo Orange pads should work. To be honest, most of the time I use the yellow pads just for the extra abrading power.

One thing for sure, Cyclo pads are WELL MADE and also work great on the Porter Cable, Megs and Griot's polishers when a person needs a 4" pad.


For the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, which is not really a glaze in the traditional sense or use of the word in this industry), but is a Fine Cut Polish.

Stick with the Green Cyclo Pads if you have them. The blue and white Cyclo pads are really pretty soft and don't offer much in the way of cut and as it applies to what you want to do they don't offer much in the way of clean-up after a compounding step.


Foam Pads, Brushes and Accessories for the Cyclo Polisher


Hope that helps...


:)

Thank you!! Also, how do I compound and Polish the moldings that are on each of the doors? By hand?
 
Last edited:
I have nothing to add here, other than the other day I was driving around and saw a really unusual sight. I saw a guy polishing his car with a Cyclo that looked like it was 40 yo and a bottle of New Finish.
 
I have nothing to add here, other than the other day I was driving around and saw a really unusual sight. I saw a guy polishing his car with a Cyclo that looked like it was 40 yo and a bottle of New Finish.

Maybe all is well with the world after all.
 
Thank you!!

Also, how do I compound and Polish the moldings that are on each of the doors? By hand?


If you cannot safely buff paint by machine then you need to do it by hand.

This is where it is so important to use products that use great abrasive-technology. Not all compounds and polishes work great by hand and can leave scratches.

It used to be there was NOTHING on the market that worked by hand. Nothing.

I know, I've been there and done that as I used to teach a LOT of hand polishing classes.

Now most of the top shelf brands for compounds and polishes can be used by hand.


:)
 
Back
Top