DA cutting pad for removing oxidation

beavis87

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Hello, I used my GG 6" random orbital polisher with 5" flexible backing plate and lake country CCS yellow low profile cutting 5.5 inch foam pad with Meg's M101 and I didn't really get the results I thought I would. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I did it exactly as the products said to do. The car is a 2010 Black Mica Mazda 3. The roof, hood, top of door pillars and trunk lid are beginning to oxidize. So I'm considering other types of pads, more aggressive or different media. I'm also open to other kinds of foam pads. On autogeek it looks like microfiber, wool and foam are my options.

The best value I found were the:
Optimum Microfiber Cutting Pad, 5.25 inches
Lake Country Hydro-Tech Low Profile 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Cyan Cutting Foam Pad
Lake Country 5 1/2 Inch Thin Foamed Wool Pad (2-Pack)

I'm not sure though if other more expensive cutting pads are worth their extra price.
For microfibers I'm also looking at Meguiars Microfiber Xtra Cut, Surbuf R Series buffing pads, Griots Garage Microfiber FAST cutting pad, Rupes Blue microfiber cutting pad, Buff and Shine microfiber cutting pad.
For foams I'm also looking at Meguiars DA Foam cutting disc, Rupes Blue coarse foam pad, Buff and Shine Orange cutting pad, Lake Country ThinPro Grey Extreme cutting pad, Lake Country Kompressor Purple Heavy cutting foam pad, Lake Country Kompressor Hydro-Tech Cyan Advanced cutting foam, and Lake Country Yellow cutting flat cutting foam pad
For Wools I'm also looking at CarPro Cool wool polishing pad, and Lake Country thick foamed wool polishing/buffing pad.

Or maybe my issue isn't pads but compound? I got M101 because it seemed the best bang for the buck, but if there is something quantitatively superior and worth its weight in gold then perhaps I will try that.
 
Try the purple Kompressor foam, or the blue Rupes foam cutting pad.
 
Have you measured the thickness of the paint on that Mazda? They are notoriously known for extremely thin paint/clear coat.
 
You can vary the results by changing the pad or compound (polish). Best bet is "least aggressive method first" approach on a test spot. If you need more cut then either increase the compound aggressiveness or up the pad cutting ability. I use the Porter Cable DA for most but I have a Rotary in case I need it. Assume the paint's clear is super thin and proceed accoringly. If it is a re-painted area then check with the painter to know what you are working with.
 
Are you sure its oxidation and not the clear starting to fail? Just a question before you remove too much clear.
 
Have you measured the thickness of the paint on that Mazda? They are notoriously known for extremely thin paint/clear coat.

I have not but have heard Mazda's are known to have thin paint but also hard. Not sure how this affects my buffing options.

You can vary the results by changing the pad or compound (polish). Best bet is "least aggressive method first" approach on a test spot. If you need more cut then either increase the compound aggressiveness or up the pad cutting ability. I use the Porter Cable DA for most but I have a Rotary in case I need it. Assume the paint's clear is super thin and proceed accoringly. If it is a re-painted area then check with the painter to know what you are working with.

I tried a test spot on the car's hood with a medium and coarse foam pad with Meg's 205 and it didn't seem to do much to the paint except get rid of swirls. Some hard water spots and oxidation remained. So thats why I stepped up to the M101 with the LC yellow foam pad. Oxidation still remains. I noticed the two front fenders seem to be replacements from a mild collision from previous owner, everything else looks original. The paint on the fenders are good but everything else isn't.
 
Are you sure its oxidation and not the clear starting to fail? Just a question before you remove too much clear.

Ok, after educating myself further I have found that it is clear coat failure. Please excuse my ignorance.
 
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