DA mistake??

Jmbrown415

Jmbrown415

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Hi Experts

Car was first washed and clayed the panels I polished.

So this was the first weekend I started using my DA polisher ( torq 10fx ). I started with a test patch which was fine. Long story short I was using v36 and orange hex pads, v38 white hex pads and jet seal 109 with red pads.

I was using 5"5 pads , setting 1 to spread and then in a grid on the highest speed slowly. With 50% over lap etc.

Please see attached pictures. Didn't notice this in daylight at the time but under an led at night I did. Is this haze? I noticed light stratches on this. It's right by the edges. Should I of used smaller pads? I.e. 4"?

Is this compound not properly broken down ? I think I may have mixed up my microfibre towels accidentally, can this cause the problem? Or do I have really soft paint?

Is this fixable? Poor Audi
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Sorry if these are all stupid questions. Totally new to this.


Thanks
Justin
 
I can see some some swirl marks, but I believe what you're trying to point out is the micromarring/da haze.

This is an expected result after compounding in most cases, and is remaining due to not properly polishing the panel after compounding.



Here is an example also on a metallic black vehicle...

Before
20151112-DSC_8317_zpspkuy4lun.jpg



After Compounding... looks pretty good, right?
20151112-DSC_8321_zpsxuyyive2.jpg



50/50 during final polish... reveals the amount of haze that was left from compounding.
20151112-DSC_8322_zpsd6b84jev.jpg



After final polishing... a much clearer finish inspected under LED lighting
20151112-DSC_8324_zps3dgaxosy.jpg



Micromarring is not easily visible in daylight on metallic finishes... in most cases I have found LED flashlights to be the most revealing when inspecting for finish quality after polishing.


I would encourage you to polish the vehicle again using a polishing pad and medium or fine polish.
 
View attachment 53908If it is what is circled (poorly) in blue, then this looks like 'haze' that can be fixed with a fine polish. If it is what is in green those appear to be deeper scratches that could potentially be removed with compound.

Having never used Chemical Guys products, I can't offer much help in terms of pad/product or technique combination.
 
I think I might be able to help. Seeing that you are using Chemical Guys Products, what potentially happened is you dry-polished your car. Basically the best way to use CG polishes and their pads as their polishes/compounds are water based, put on about 4 to 5 dots on your pad then mist it one or two sprays of distilled water. The other main difference in their paint correction liquids is that you only run to 4 passes or so at the maximum speed. After that, work the pad at a slightly faster armspeed but on 3 to 4 instead of 6. Their polishes break down quicker for correction work when used properly, but I think what happened is you marred your paint with the dried compound because at pass 5 or 6, you're rubbing dried polish dust into your paint instead of a liquid. I don't find CG polishes to dust a lot. The other thing too is if you've polished your paint with V36 and then V38, you didn't cut enough basically. V36 is a polish while V38 is a finishing polish so you didn't actually compound your paint either. I suggest stepping up to V34 or V32 as an actual compound, I don't know what the state of your paint was previously but yes it would've looked great in the garage since you haven't really corrected too much with V36 or V38. I would suggest following the procedures for CG compounds with the two mists of water on the pad and only running 4 passes on speed 6 but use V23 or V34 instead as an actual compound. V36 or V38 afterwards with the white pad would be fine as the final polish to make your paint look great as well.
 
My thoughts exactly Willsports. The CG polishes are not bad, but I think the op got into a little rush and needs to start over. V36 and V38 have very little cut and he probably marred his paint, then put Jetseal over the marring. Dropping down to V34 would be best(V32 is rough) and following your instructions will probably fix the ops problems.
 
Yes, you can't just use the regular 6 pass method with CG polishes, not unless you're spritizing the pad with water. Chemical Guys recommend the "Pad Conditioner" But that's basically just a detail spray with extra lubrication. Water works fine or even a quick spritz of a waterless/rinseless solution to the pad. If you prime your pad with CG polishes, it'll really dust on you so that's not recommended either.
 
Thanks, yes a lot of dust when I polished. I will follow the advice. With an organs pad does anyone know how much v34 cuts in mcg?
My car has already been detailed professionally by Paul dalton so just looking to remove 1) the haze I created oh dear 2) any swirls and scratches picked up by stupidly using a car wash.
Time to stop being lazy and wash it myself properly.
 
Paul Dalton is regarded as the worlds best detailer. You polished your car after Paul Dalton worked his magic on it?
 
Unfortunately picked up a lot of light crap from poor washing techniques.
Want to get that removed and plus is easy now as Paul removed all the heavy stuff that I wouldn't of got out.
Very keen to learn too!
 
Not a bad 5050 on the bonnet.

i guess 20 plus years of experience benefits.
 
Yes, with V34 and proper technique V34 will cut just enough. Check your work on your test spot, make sure it's really removed everything.
 
Jmbrown415 said:
Not a bad 5050 on the bonnet.

i guess 20 plus years of experience benefits.
Click to expand...

Looks good. Glad you got it worked out. Now when you're done, polish it up to an ultra high gloss with a white pad and some Essence or Menzerna 3500/3800 and then coat it with McKee's 37 Paint Coating and enjoy your new German Candy Coated Car

BTW, our Audi's have a tough clear coat but once corrected it is susceptible to micro marring. I've found that two coats of McKee's Coating cures that. Now I no longer worry about micro marring from simple microfiber towels.
 
I would be curious to hear, if you know, what Paul D used when he cut and polished it.
 
As you can see the results where jaw dropping but just so hard to maintain on a daily
 
Should I use panel wipe after v34 and v38 ie before I apply the sealant. Was thinking of using gtechniq or is this a definite no no ?
 
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