DA Polishers

gibson24

gibson24

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I been doing my cars and trucks by hand forever and decided I need a polisher so I read a ton of info through-out the forums about the differences of the Rotary vs DA polisher. Im going with the DA. I need a to-the-point answer on...

Do the edges of panels, trim, etc need to be taped when using a DA?

Since i never used a machine, should I buy the Meguirs 2-step "you cant mess it up gauranteed" kit that comes with the compound, polish, pads, cleaner...
Meguiars G110v2 Dual Action Complete Kit FREE BONUS


Spend the money, its worth it, its not that difficult, buy a Flex DA kit...
Flex Power Tools, Flex car polishers and buffers, circular polisher, dual action polisher, buffer, german car buffer, german car polisher, flex buffer


My detailing is typically a 3-step "production detail", although from time to time I do a 4-5 step detail (yes by hand)

I know that alot of you guys are professionals with businesses, so this same question had to have been asked for yourself at some point in time. I understand there are other brands such as Rupes, Porter Cable, and so on. I do not intend on doing any work beyond detailing such as actual body work.

Thanks in advance,
Joe
 
I would definitely tape up edges and trim, emblems, and anywhere you don't want polishing dust to go.

The Flex will correct much faster and will not slow down since it's forced rotation so working on curved panels is less of an issue. As for the traditional random orbital the G110 is a good unit but underpowered compared to the Griot's 6".
 
You don't have to tape off but it sure is worth the effort.
As for as a D.A well my first one was the Porter Cable XP, fine machine but didn't have the power I wanted or needed,so after a year I bought the Griot's D.A, it has twice the power of the PC and cut my work time about 30%.

IMHO it's the best D.A in it's class,period.
It also comes with a lifetime warranty, no questions asked.

Put a 5 inch backing plate so you can use 5.5 inch pads, that too saves time.
Either one will work, PC, Meg's but the GG6 is a beast when it comes to paint corrections. :dblthumb2:
 
+1 on what HateSwirls said!!

In general you're better off buying what you need piece by piece rather than in a kit as you can purchase just what you need and not allot of extras that you might not use.
 
Spend the money and go for a flex 3401. I would not buy a package as you will get products you don't want. The LC pads are good and will correct faster. But do remember that it is more technique then power. If you don't have good technique even with the flex you will not get the results you want

Ed

:buffing:
 
Taping edges with a DA isn't mandatory and maybe not even necessary, but sure doesn't hurt. Let me put it this way. Doing the edges of the doors up next to the trim along with an extra run above the trim against the glass will keep all the crap from messing up your trim. Keeps the dust from getting inside the felt edge against the windows.

Taping along the hood and trunk edges keeps dust from getting down in there. At least while compounding it's not a bad idea. Polishing otoh I'd remove it on those areas so you can do away with any tape lines.

The PC vs GG vs 3401 what / if / why has been discussed ad nauseam. No doubt the GG6 with 5" backing plate will do anything and everything you may run across. Would it be better to get the 3401 if you'd never worked with a 'non' forced rotation buffer? At least you'd not know one vs the other. ;) That seems to be the complaint from those that have worked with both, fighting the forced rotation aspect of it all. Where the guys that worked with a orbital don't seem to have a problem with it. :)

What is more important, no matter which buffer you get, is get PLENTY of PADS! Not 3 or 4 or even 5 or 6. Get a dozen and start from there. Also get a couple of each of the Meguiar's MF pads. Then you'll have all the tools at your disposal to attack whatever job you want to approach. Doing a 2 step will take over half a dozen pads on it's own.
 
I still avoid edges using a DA (out of habit) I get as close as possible then just switch to the other side. I am working up the courage to do it freely. Without fear of burning the paint on a DA, :D

However, I saw the Meguiar's guys going over and edge on the hood of a customers car using the Meguiar's DA. I was very surprised to see that, but it made sense.

I do understand taping of areas where you don't want to be doing extra steps having to clean up excess product that fell in between panels. Or that got on trim.

But it seems ok to do it on edges on a DA (not advising you to do it btw)
 
Cardaddy... Or any of you other guys

Could you give me an example of pads needed and type of pads going into a detail of...

1. Wash/dry/clay - obviously none needed there
2. Removing swirls/light to medium compound (how do you decide there)
3. Paint cleaner/polish/AIO?
4. Then a topping of carnauba

With follow-ups there after simply being steps 1 and 4.

All of the detailing I have ever done I simply used applicators and MF's by hand. Using a DA now and with all these different options of materials and colors. In as simple terms as possible for the above example would be great. (I feel like a kid in school again, except I enjoy this learning process)

In advance thank you. I appreciate the feedback. There is no other "car guys" site like this for detailing. Its just awesome the wealth of knowledge available here by you guys and of course Mike himself. AG is a company that cares no doubt.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using AG Online
 
And Im thinking I'll be going for the forced DA

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using AG Online
 
Er.. Wait a minute. Non of the DA's are forced I thought. Got my thoughts backward there for a minute

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using AG Online
 
My understanding is the DA "absorbs" pressure if to much is applied.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using AG Online
 
Take this with a grain of salt.

However, I have used the PC, Rupes, Flex and learned on a Dewalt

I always had to use a Rotary and finish with a great finish after wet sanding repaints.

PC's, Griots and Rupes stop spinning at a certain point. (Or like you said absorbs the pressure)

Flex and Rotary's are forced rotation so they'll keep spinning with a ton of pressure. I have never attempted to burn paint using a Flex. So can't speak on that.

But burning paint (from my understanding, I could be wrong) is that you are creating so much heat on that specific spot that you are running the machine, that you literally "burn the paint"

That's where non forced rotation machines come into play. They stop spinning so any concentration of heat is not caused because the machine has stopped spinning.

But anything can always be possible and that is where technique comes into play. There is a lot of guys that can have great finishes using a rotary, on any color paint.

I have always had trouble on black paint.

I really enjoy using the Rupes (if that's any help)

Good Luck, and ask away :xyxthumbs:

Art
 
Ok I just read that about the Flex 3401 its a DA with a forced drive got that part
 
The Harbor Freight DA may be worth a look for $50. Just get a Meguiars MF correction kit with it (which includes a new backing plate) and you should be able to get decent results. I would still advise finish with foam though, so get yourself some foam finishing pads and either Menzerna SF4000 or HD Polish for finishing.

If you want to spend serious coin, get the Rupes 21. I have both the Flex 3401 and the Rupes and prefer the Rupes hands down. As long as you do the "washer mod," it has almost as much power as the Flex, but does the job much faster and with significantly less NVH.
 
gibson24 said:
Cardaddy... Or any of you other guys

Could you give me an example of pads needed and type of pads going into a detail of...

1. Wash/dry/clay - obviously none needed there
2. Removing swirls/light to medium compound (how do you decide there)
3. Paint cleaner/polish/AIO?
4. Then a topping of carnauba

With follow-ups there after simply being steps 1 and 4.
Click to expand...


2. Removing swirls/light to medium compound (how do you decide there)
Click to expand...

I usually stick with Megs products....

M105 or UC - Megs Yellow Pad


3. Paint cleaner/polish/AIO?
Click to expand...

M205 or UP - Megs Yellow Pad - Can be used with AIO also.


4. Then a topping of carnauba
Click to expand...

Megs Black or Beige Pad
 
Thanks jankerson for including the Megs specific pads

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using AG Online
 
If this is going to be your only machine and it sounds like it is. I would not go with a Rupes 21, they just have to much throw to be used everywhere on the car just my opinion. If you feel like your going to be doing a lot of correction work go with the flex because that is where it really shines. For the money and a lifetime warranty its pretty hard to beat the GG6.
 
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