DA sequence question

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estcstm3

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Hopefully this makes sense. What is the proper sequence when using a DA such as a porters after you do your test panel. For instance you use 1) swirl remover 2) Some Polish 3) Sealant. Would you "swirl remove" the entire car in sections, then polish the entire car in sections, then seal the entire car in sections OR do you break the car in sections and perform all 3 swirl remove, polish, seal on each section?

I am just using a 3 step method for the sake of the example. I realize you should start with the least aggressive first.

best.
 
Great thanks for the quick response. Thats what I was assuming but confirmation is good.

When you are working on level say the swirl removal (mild paint correction) do you do a section at a time say door, hood, trunk etc... or do you break those sections down even further?


In an old life when I would apply by hand I would end up say using the P21s cleaner on the whole side of the car then buff out. I realize that would be too big when using a DA correct?
 
2 foot by 2 foot section at a time, sometimes even smaller depending on the amount of correction needed.
 
I work on a panel at a time. Get all the correction done then move on to the next. I do the whole car at once when applying a sealant but revert to panel by panel when applying Carnuaba.
 
bodavenport said:
2 foot by 2 foot section at a time, sometimes even smaller depending on the amount of correction needed.
Click to expand...
Good Advice. I wax/seal based on which one I am using. If it needs to dry completely (DGPS, Gritos BOS, Megs 26), I do the whole car and come back to buff it off. If using a wipe on/wipe off (pinnacle SSII), I do one panel at a time.
 
Thanks I really think this is a forgotten topic for beginners. Depending on the polish or swirl remover, most you would make your "6 stage passes" then wipe off, then move to your next section?

Sorry for so many super newb questions. This is very helpful though, I want to make sure I know the basics before getting overwhelmed.
 
estcstm3 said:
Hopefully this makes sense. What is the proper sequence when using a DA such as a porters after you do your test panel. For instance you use 1) swirl remover 2) Some Polish 3) Sealant. Would you "swirl remove" the entire car in sections, then polish the entire car in sections, then seal the entire car in sections OR do you break the car in sections and perform all 3 swirl remove, polish, seal on each section?

I am just using a 3 step method for the sake of the example. I realize you should start with the least aggressive first.

best.
Click to expand...

On a multi-step correction finish an entire step (compound, polish, jeweling) give the car a finalt IPA wipedown (ideally you should do this after your finished with that step on every panel) then move on to the next step in the process. I like to keep my workspace clean. I'll have various pads/polishes out for the test spot to dial in, but after that everything except the polish and pad I'm using at that moment goes back into their individual containers.
 
Here's what you want to do,

Wash the car and clay if needed, remove any above surface bonded contaminants before doing any paint polishing work.

Next, do a Test Spot, that is take all the product you plan on using over the entire car and use them on one small section on the car and make sure your "system" works to remove the defects and make paint look great.

Once you prove your system, the simply repeat that process over the entire car.

Point being, if you know your system works in one small area you know it will work over the rest of the car, thus no disappointments.

As for how to carve up the car...

If you think you can do the entire car in one day then do the correction step all at once to the car, then the polishing step and lastly the wax or sealing step.

If you only want to tackle portions of the car in one day then just do the above but to only the hood and roof for example.

Read this recent thread on CorvetteForum to see how much time this member invested in doing his car...

Video: How To Remove Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots with a DA Polisher - Corvette Forum


Also watch this video and the videos linked to on the above page...


How to do a Section Pass using a Dual Action Polisher - Key to Removing Swirls


How big of a section to do at one time depends upon how easy the swirls are coming out of the paint with your choice of pads and chemicals and even your technique.

If you find the swirls are coming out fast and easy then tackle a large section at one time. If you find the swirls are coming out slow and difficult, then shrink the size of your work area down.


:)
 
estcstm3 said:
Depending on the polish or swirl remover, most you would make your "6 stage passes" then wipe off, then move to your next section?
Click to expand...


Before moving on to the next section... inspect your results.

Wipe off the residue and inspect, use your eyes to look at the results. Make sure you're getting the results you want and if you are, then move on to the next section.

If you do a Test Spot first and find out your "process" is working, then just duplicate the same process, section by section over the rest of the car. Overlap your sections a little so you'll have uniform results over the entire car.

I think I explain all of this on this DVD

Mike Phillips' Principles of Machine Polishing


:xyxthumbs:
 
At the very least I would recommend doing a IPA wipe down on your test spot after each of the polishing steps and inspect the finish. (I prefer to wipe down w/ IPA after each panel). If you closely inspect the finish after the wipe down, you can tell if you are really getting the correction you desire, or just filling the swirls with polish.
 
Last dumb question... What is IPA ISO Propylene (sp?) alcohol? If so is that safe for your finish?
 
estcstm3 said:
Last dumb question... What is IPA ISO Propylene (sp?) alcohol? If so is that safe for your finish?
Click to expand...

Yes, IPA= Isopropyl Alcohol, and yes it is very safe to use on your paints finish. Many pro detailers have been using it for many years. Some people dilute it with water. But I prefer to use it straight. I like to use the 90%, but 70% will also work. It can be purchased at Walmart, etc. in the first aid section.
 
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