DA vs. Rotary

[Joseph Rogers]

General impression I'm getting is the DA is more user friendly, and less chance of screwing something up. Rotary you can burn through the paint, but as long as you're comfortable with it, it will do the same area quicker than a DA.

Is this correct?

 

[hernandez.art13]

IMO Yes and No.

It can polish out the paint a lot faster than a traditional style DA, but the finishes won't look so great on certain paints. (Buffer Trails, Holograms)

I believe it is possible to burn paint using a DA, but you really have to try and burn the paint or just not know what you are doing.

So while you might be able to use a Rotary and not burn the paint. If it were a jet black paint job. It would be best to either just use a DA or if a Rotary was needed. Then it would be a good a idea to use a DA after the Rotary.

I still feel there is a place for Rotaries in the detailing industry however.

DA's and Rotaries are just other tools in my arsenal of detailing equipment

Hope that helps some,

Art

 

[HateSwirls]

I've been using a rotary for over 30 years now and yes it's much faster to correct paint compared to any other machine.

That said you must be careful, yes you can burn through the paint quickly, very unforgiving.

Have you ever used a rotary ?
If so how many times have you used one?

Just feeling comfortable isn't enough to put a rotary in your hands.

There's two things you can do to practice on to learn and steps to follow.

1. Find an old salvage hood to practice on or a car that's just about worthless.
2. To begin learning use a foam pad, doesn't produce as much heat as wool.
3. Don't use an aggressive compound when first starting out, instead buy yourself a bottle of Meguiar's Ultimate Polish, cheap product to learn with.
4. Make sure to practice in keeping the pad flat as you can, if you use the edge of the pad you'll generate more heat.

After many hours using this method use the same hood but move up to a compound, buy one that's user friendly, like the Wolfgang Uber Compound.

I want to say this, it takes a long time to master the rotary, if you don't master it then don't ever use it on a customers car no matter how old the car is.
If you can compound the hood without burning the paint then you have a chance in learning it, anyone can learn how to use a rotary, again it takes a very long time.

Good luck man!

Kevin

 

[BobbyG]

Like many here, I started dabbling in Autobody & Paint work early and a rotary was the only machine available. I started using a rotary back in 1968....my sophomore year in high school. Rotary's were all we had back then and I did some great work. There's a learning curve with a rotary and they're not the evil nemesis lurking in the shadows.

Today's rotary polishers are a much more refined tool with variable speeds, soft starts, and much lighter weight. I still have my old workhorse from back in the day and believe it or not it still works.....like me!








As you can see, it's a 2 speed machine....




My stable of polishers today.....plus the old workhorse above...rops:

Mike Phillips has written an awful lot on this topic so I've copied in an entire section from his contributions for convenience....

Rotary Buffers

Rotary Buffers are the most powerful type of tool used to work on paint. These tools use a direct drive gear mechanism to rotate a pad under pressure in a single direction. This type of tool works fastest for removing sanding marks after wetsanding, serious paint defects and oxidation off both cars and boats. These types of tools will tend to leave holograms behind that are best removed using dual action type polishers for a swirl-free finish even after multiple washings.

New - How to buff off an edge when using a rotary buffer

New - How to use a Rotary Buffer

New - Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer


DeWALT DWP849X vs Makita 9227C Rotary Buffers

Surgical Buffing

Edging - Buffing the paint around edges

Rotary Buffer Talk with Bob Eichelberg from Flex Tools

Bumblebee - Testing out the NEW DeWALT DWP849X

The New FLEX PE14-2-150 Rotary Buffer - Includes Video

The 10 @ 10 technique for picking up a bead of product with a rotary buffer

Rotary Buffers: Stick Handle - Hoop Handle - Or no handle at all

Video: The Flex 3403 Rotary Buffer – How to remove Sanding Marks after Dampsanding Orange Peel

 

[Joseph Rogers]

Thanks, guys.

When I say "comfortable", I use rotaries all day long...but it's on floors. BIG ones. No, I realize that one must practice with these things, and I intend to. I'm just trying to wrap my head around strengths and weaknesses...I'm a big believer in understanding your equipment and what it can do.

 

[HateSwirls]

Like many here, I started dabbling in Autobody & Paint work early and a rotary was the only machine available. I started using a rotary back in 1968....my sophomore year in high school. Rotary's were all we had back then and I did some great work. There's a learning curve with a rotary and they're not the evil nemesis lurking in the shadows.

Today's rotary polishers are a much more refined tool with variable speeds, soft starts, and much lighter weight. I still have my old workhorse from back in the day and believe it or not it still works.....like me!








As you can see, it's a 2 speed machine....




My stable of polishers today.....plus the old workhorse above...rops:

Mike Phillips has written an awful lot on this topic so I've copied in an entire section from his contributions for convenience....

Rotary Buffers

Rotary Buffers are the most powerful type of tool used to work on paint. These tools use a direct drive gear mechanism to rotate a pad under pressure in a single direction. This type of tool works fastest for removing sanding marks after wetsanding, serious paint defects and oxidation off both cars and boats. These types of tools will tend to leave holograms behind that are best removed using dual action type polishers for a swirl-free finish even after multiple washings.

New - How to buff off an edge when using a rotary buffer

New - How to use a Rotary Buffer

New - Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer


DeWALT DWP849X vs Makita 9227C Rotary Buffers

Surgical Buffing

Edging - Buffing the paint around edges

Rotary Buffer Talk with Bob Eichelberg from Flex Tools

Bumblebee - Testing out the NEW DeWALT DWP849X

The New FLEX PE14-2-150 Rotary Buffer - Includes Video

The 10 @ 10 technique for picking up a bead of product with a rotary buffer

Rotary Buffers: Stick Handle - Hoop Handle - Or no handle at all

Video: The Flex 3403 Rotary Buffer – How to remove Sanding Marks after Dampsanding Orange Peel

I had one just as you posted here, the first pic, I forget the weight but it was heavy.
But mine had one speed, "ON"

 

[davidc]

Like many here, I started dabbling in Autobody & Paint work early and a rotary was the only machine available. I started using a rotary back in 1968....my sophomore year in high school. Rotary's were all we had back then and I did some great work. There's a learning curve with a rotary and they're not the evil nemesis lurking in the shadows.

Today's rotary polishers are a much more refined tool with variable speeds, soft starts, and much lighter weight. I still have my old workhorse from back in the day and believe it or not it still works.....like me!








As you can see, it's a 2 speed machine....

I have the same exact buffer. It is a real beast and I am to old now to pick the thing up, much less use it. After using that thing for a while I moved on to an air powered rotary that throttles the speed control from the trigger which is great when you approach those intricate areas and it is 100 pounds lighter. Those 2 speeds did not leave a lot of options back in the day.

Dave

 

[BillyJack]

Two speeds? That was high class! My 70's era Rockwell has two speeds---off and VERY ON. I'm just about 95% D/A nowadays, but once in a while I fire the old girl up for a real stubborn area.

I think the only non-metallic pieces are the cord, the handle and the rubber pad on the back. Weighing in at 11 lbs, I try to minimize its use on vertical panels!

Bill

 

[BobbyG]

Weighing in at 11 lbs, I try to minimize its use on vertical panels!

Bill

But Bill, they made strong men of both of us!! rops: :laughing:

 

[trekkeruss]

Just to add, there is now the Flex 34012 which is a forced rotation dual action polisher, so it has the direct drive of a rotary, and the rotating orbital movement of a dual action.

 

[HateSwirls]

Just to add, there is now the Flex 34012 which is a forced rotation dual action polisher, so it has the direct drive of a rotary, and the rotating orbital movement of a dual action.

Yes they do but you can't compare the two, totally different.
Either way one can't go wrong.

 

[Joseph Rogers]

Just to add, there is now the Flex 34012 which is a forced rotation dual action polisher, so it has the direct drive of a rotary, and the rotating orbital movement of a dual action.

Yes they do but you can't compare the two, totally different.
Either way one can't go wrong.

Gentlemen, you have piqued my interest. Please discuss the forced rotation of a DA, and pros/cons associated with it.

 

[TundraPower]

General impression I'm getting is the DA is more user friendly, and less chance of screwing something up. Rotary you can burn through the paint, but as long as you're comfortable with it, it will do the same area quicker than a DA. Is this correct?

I learned on a rotary many years ago. If you're really good with one you can get outstanding results. I have not touched a rotary since Rupes came to America. No reason to. Consistent, fast, predictable results every time with zero stress or anxiety of doing damage. Best of luck with whatever you choose :dblthumb2: