Damp sanding: DA route or Denim/velvet pad route

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zckid

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Hello friends :xyxthumbs:

My buddy's friends have asked me to do a full correction of their cars. The problem in Mauritius, most cars have orange peel. Both new and reconditioned cars have this problem.

I've only been wetsanding by hand, and it's taking me endless hours to prep the car for polishing. a hood took me and my buddy a whole day (link here)

I want to do the same faster. :buffing:

So, i need your advice on this issue

  • Would the DA and sanding discs be better? which one (Megs G220, DAS-6 or DAS-6 pro and the mirka abralon pads)?
    (only using 220v here)
  • or the Velvet/Denim pads from Carpro coupled with Menzerna FG400? (I actually have the Makita rotary and Flex 3401.)

I'm saving some $$$. I'm split between the DA and a PTG as the exchage rate is cruel right now & does not help me at all ($1 = MUR 30)

What would you recommend. Your advice will be most appreciated.Feed back please

thanks a lot

Zaid
 
For orange peel removal, what kind of paint are you doing it on?

If it is OEM paint, I wouldn't recommend removing it. The clear coat is too thin.

For refinished paint you can easily remove the orange peel.

Now are you trying to save money here or time?

For time the orange peel removal pads work the fastest, and also the cheapest. Now I have never used these pads, so I don't know how long they will last you. But FG400 and rotary would be the best route for this. I would recommend you find a good way to clean your pads too. They would get filled up pretty quick.

Game Changing Performance: CarPro Denim Orange Peel Pad Review - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com

Now for the more traditional wetsanding, I use 3M sanding disks. I would recommend a 1500 grit and a 5000 grit pack. Usually a pack of each is good enough to last a few car. Although this is a more expensive route and will cost around $190 USD = 5,700 MUR.

Overall I would say pickup a few carpro pads and go from there.
 
Andr3wilson said:
For orange peel removal, what kind of paint are you doing it on?

If it is OEM paint, I wouldn't recommend removing it. The clear coat is too thin.

For refinished paint you can easily remove the orange peel.

Now are you trying to save money here or time?

For time the orange peel removal pads work the fastest, and also the cheapest. Now I have never used these pads, so I don't know how long they will last you. But FG400 and rotary would be the best route for this. I would recommend you find a good way to clean your pads too. They would get filled up pretty quick.

Game Changing Performance: CarPro Denim Orange Peel Pad Review - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com

Now for the more traditional wetsanding, I use 3M sanding disks. I would recommend a 1500 grit and a 5000 grit pack. Usually a pack of each is good enough to last a few car. Although this is a more expensive route and will cost around $190 USD = 5,700 MUR.

Overall I would say pickup a few carpro pads and go from there.
Click to expand...

thanks for your detailed explanation and advice buddy. :dblthumb2:

will consider the carpro pads. I have read Todd Helme's testing of the carpro pads.

As far as I can understand now that the denim/velvet pads will save me from investing in a DA and the sanding discs.

Thanks a lot :props:
 
zckid said:
thanks for your detailed explanation and advice buddy. :dblthumb2:

will consider the carpro pads. I have read Todd Helme's testing of the carpro pads.

As far as I can understand now that the denim/velvet pads will save me from investing in a DA and the sanding discs.

Thanks a lot :props:
Click to expand...

You still need a da
 
Your all set mate :dblthumb2:

Carpro pads via rotary and FG400

Then either FF3000 or SF4000 on a white polishing or blue/black finishing via 3401, your are going to have some tremendous results!

Post some pics of the job! :Picture:
 
Andr3wilson said:
Your all set mate :dblthumb2:

Carpro pads via rotary and FG400

Then either FF3000 or SF4000 on a white polishing or blue/black finishing via 3401, your are going to have some tremendous results!

Post some pics of the job! :Picture:
Click to expand...

thanks buddy :dblthumb2:

will try to get hold of these, waiting for a discount code on AG so that I can order other few detailing goodies.

Here's the wetsanding by hand link. :Picture:
 
I've viewed your wetsanding threads for months now. Excellent work btw. Not a fan of orange peel removal on factory CC, but then again not my market. For dd, factory years old CC, maybe stick with hand work.
Either way, good luck and keep the threads coming.

Happy detailing...:buffing:
 
Vegas Transplant said:
I've viewed your wetsanding threads for months now. Excellent work btw. Not a fan of orange peel removal on factory CC, but then again not my market. For dd, factory years old CC, maybe stick with hand work.
Either way, good luck and keep the threads coming.

Happy detailing...:buffing:
Click to expand...

ihaveacamaro said:
:iagree:
Click to expand...


thanks for your encouragement buddies... still learning from you all. :props:
 
zckid said:
So, i need your advice on this issue

  • Would the DA and sanding discs be better? which one (Megs G220, DAS-6 or DAS-6 pro and the mirka abralon pads)?
    (only using 220v here)
  • or the Velvet/Denim pads from Carpro coupled with Menzerna FG400? (I actually have the Makita rotary and Flex 3401.)

Zaid
Click to expand...


If you're working on the THIN factory clear, then I would opt for the Denim pad route based upon what I saw Todd Helme do to his own car with orange peel. I personally have not used the denim pads yet as I'm waiting for the right candidate car.

The last two cars I've sanded down, a 1963 Impala and a 1970 Cutlass, neither would work well for what I needed from them.


Here's the deal...

With traditional sanding you're instilling scratches as you level the paint. That's not the issue. The issue or tricky part is buffing out 100% of your sanding marks while not making a mistake.

Mistake = burning through the clear


With the sanding approach to a thin factory clear here's the steps...

  • Sand paint - This removes a measure of film-build
  • Compound paint - This removes a measure of film-build plus can generate heat
  • Polish paint - This removes a measure of film-build
These three steps all remove paint. Factory paint is thin and even a re-paint can be thin if the painter didn't on their own spray extra clear or if the car owner didn't pay them extra to spray more clear onto the car.


With the Carpro Denim pads you're basically compound the paint, NOT PUTTING SANDING MARKS INTO THE PAINT, and because the Denim pad is flat and hard, this abrading action is focused on mostly the high points or tops of the orange peel texture.

The process does leave the traditional scouring and holograms from an aggressive compounding step but this is normal, to be expected and EASIER and SAFER to recover from.

Getting the technique down for using the denim pads on a rotary buffer will take a little practice but nothing you can't teach yourself by starting out on easy to buff large flat panels.

One thing for sure, sanding and then removing 100% of your sanding marks to an entire car is a HUGE job. After doing it one time, most people never want to do it again.


:)
 
Also... I've been using Abralon sanding discs for years an they have about a 1/4" foam backing. I really like the Abralon discs but normally for removing orange peel you don't want a cushioned backing, you want a hard or stiff baking to keep the abrading focused on just the top surfaces.

A foam backing provides cushion and allows the face of the sanding disc to conform to the curves of the surface and this can lead to removing paint off both the high points and the low points.

At least that's the theory...


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
If you're working on the THIN factory clear, then I would opt for the Denim pad route based upon what I saw Todd Helme do to his own car with orange peel. I personally have not used the denim pads yet as I'm waiting for the right candidate car.

The last two cars I've sanded down, a 1963 Impala and a 1970 Cutlass, neither would work well for what I needed from them.


Here's the deal...

With traditional sanding you're instilling scratches as you level the paint. That's not the issue. The issue or tricky part is buffing out 100% of your sanding marks while not making a mistake.

Mistake = burning through the clear


With the sanding approach to a thin factory clear here's the steps...

  • Sand paint - This removes a measure of film-build
  • Compound paint - This removes a measure of film-build plus can generate heat
  • Polish paint - This removes a measure of film-build
These three steps all remove paint. Factory paint is thin and even a re-paint can be thin if the painter didn't on their own spray extra clear or if the car owner didn't pay them extra to spray more clear onto the car.


With the Carpro Denim pads you're basically compound the paint, NOT PUTTING SANDING MARKS INTO THE PAINT, and because the Denim pad is flat and hard, this abrading action is focused on mostly the high points or tops of the orange peel texture.

The process does leave the traditional scouring and holograms from an aggressive compounding step but this is normal, to be expected and EASIER and SAFER to recover from.

Getting the technique down for using the denim pads on a rotary buffer will take a little practice but nothing you can't teach yourself by starting out on easy to buff large flat panels.

One thing for sure, sanding and then removing 100% of your sanding marks to an entire car is a HUGE job. After doing it one time, most people never want to do it again.


:)
Click to expand...


Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Also... I've been using Abralon sanding discs for years an they have about a 1/4" foam backing. I really like the Abralon discs but normally for removing orange peel you don't want a cushioned backing, you want a hard or stiff baking to keep the abrading focused on just the top surfaces.

A foam backing provides cushion and allows the face of the sanding disc to conform to the curves of the surface and this can lead to removing paint off both the high points and the low points.

At least that's the theory...


:)
Click to expand...

:thankyousign: so much for the detailed explanation Mike.

I really appreciate the way you detail your explanation and :iagree: 200%. I've seen you were dampsanding in a video ("Helping in the heartland")

It's a superb video, very inspiring. So I tried that on my buddy's hood. The technique I used was to refine at every stage during the buffing process. In the end it paid, but it was so tiresome to check if there were any tracers left after compounding, them move to the polishing and finishing stages.


Thanks so much Mike :dblthumb2:
 
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