A4 1.8tqm
New member
- Apr 4, 2009
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To start I must admit that throughout this process I have felt that my technique is "wrong" in several ways,... but boy is it workin'!
Materials: Factory touch-up paint and clear coat pens (felt tip type), 2000 wet sand paper, Menz Power Gloss, Flex 3401, LC orange pad and a playing card.
The process:
I started by applying the touch up paint in 1-2 inch increments and using the playing card to remove the excess immediately. This left paint in the scratch and a very fine layer surrounding. Once I got the area done I let it dry just until it was no longer tacky.
The scratch before any attempt to wet sand etc. (old pic)
The paint is already dry, I couldn't take pics during.
This is where my process may be considered "wrong". I used the felt tip of the paint pen with out releasing any paint, it was almost dry. I proceeded to go along the scratch in tiny circular motions, again, not applying any more paint. this process just softened the half dried paint and pushed it into the scratch. After repeating a few times the scratch was filled almost level.
Dried. This is how it looks in between each re-softening pass.
This is a couple passes in after wet sanding and compounding. Then reapplying.
This process totally rely's on not applying more paint and pushing re-softened paint into the scratch. I'm quite sure that this will have negative effects on bonding and I will catch some heat for this.
After a few layers I let it dry over night. Before wet sanding I re-re-softened the excess paint and wiped it off with a misc. use MF taking great care to not soften the paint in the scratch. This really reduced the amount of sanding necessary. Power Gloss takes care of 2000 wet sand marks with ease.
The spot where the scratch is almost gone was for sure the worst part in that area, the was knife apparently pivoted and removed a nice chunk.
These pics are the absolute best I could do to show remainder of the scratch.
The darker parts in the middle of the scratch and to the right are where I sanded all the way through the Clear in previous attempts to reduce the visibility by wet sanding.
With the scratch nearly level I tried to apply the clear coat with the same "almost dry applicator" method. Unfortunately the clear coat pens tip fully saturates with out even "pumping". I ended up removing the paint from the scratch in a small area and had to start over in that spot. So I redid that spot and then tried again but let the tip dry out a little. The clear is drying right now and i can't wait to see/post the final results.
Materials: Factory touch-up paint and clear coat pens (felt tip type), 2000 wet sand paper, Menz Power Gloss, Flex 3401, LC orange pad and a playing card.
The process:
I started by applying the touch up paint in 1-2 inch increments and using the playing card to remove the excess immediately. This left paint in the scratch and a very fine layer surrounding. Once I got the area done I let it dry just until it was no longer tacky.
The scratch before any attempt to wet sand etc. (old pic)
The paint is already dry, I couldn't take pics during.
This is where my process may be considered "wrong". I used the felt tip of the paint pen with out releasing any paint, it was almost dry. I proceeded to go along the scratch in tiny circular motions, again, not applying any more paint. this process just softened the half dried paint and pushed it into the scratch. After repeating a few times the scratch was filled almost level.
Dried. This is how it looks in between each re-softening pass.
This is a couple passes in after wet sanding and compounding. Then reapplying.
This process totally rely's on not applying more paint and pushing re-softened paint into the scratch. I'm quite sure that this will have negative effects on bonding and I will catch some heat for this.
After a few layers I let it dry over night. Before wet sanding I re-re-softened the excess paint and wiped it off with a misc. use MF taking great care to not soften the paint in the scratch. This really reduced the amount of sanding necessary. Power Gloss takes care of 2000 wet sand marks with ease.
The spot where the scratch is almost gone was for sure the worst part in that area, the was knife apparently pivoted and removed a nice chunk.
These pics are the absolute best I could do to show remainder of the scratch.
The darker parts in the middle of the scratch and to the right are where I sanded all the way through the Clear in previous attempts to reduce the visibility by wet sanding.
With the scratch nearly level I tried to apply the clear coat with the same "almost dry applicator" method. Unfortunately the clear coat pens tip fully saturates with out even "pumping". I ended up removing the paint from the scratch in a small area and had to start over in that spot. So I redid that spot and then tried again but let the tip dry out a little. The clear is drying right now and i can't wait to see/post the final results.
Last edited:
I assume that I need to let the paint fully cure before applying the clear. It would be nice to get some feedback from a pro painter regarding this process. I think with some experimentation, a technique able to get near 100% correction can be achieved. Anyone have another method for repairing deep scratch's?
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