Detailing a vehicle with a clear bra...

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98LowRanger

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So today I had a customer drop off his 2015 "Series Blue" Subaru BRZ (only 5k miles on it) for me to Opti-Coat. This is my FIRST time dealing with a car with a dealer installed clear bra (on half the hood, front bumper, inside the door handles, and a few other "hard wear" areas). I am doing a light polish on the whole car to insure the best possible finish before I apply Opti-coat, but I have a few questions that are probably dumb, but I have to ask anyway...haha.

1) Do you guys clay over the clear bra areas? I wouldn't think the clay could harm the clear bra in any way.

2) Do you polish over the clear bra or tape it off and avoid it?

3) Will the clear bra areas be able to absorb the coating? Basically is it a waste of coating to apply to those areas?
 
You can clay it, just make sure you only work the clay in one direction: from the clear bra side to the non clear bra side, else you will get clay stuck at the seem.

I know others have had success polishing clear bras, I think it was with M205 on a white pad on medium speed with a DA, but someone else should probably confirm that.

I've only put coatings under clear bra. Never tried on top, but it can be used on plastics, so why not clear bra?
 
1. no, I don't
2. yes (tape edges)
3. some coatings will Opti-coat does from what I hear
 
98LowRanger said:
So today I had a customer drop off his 2015 "Series Blue" Subaru BRZ (only 5k miles on it) for me to Opti-Coat. This is my FIRST time dealing with a car with a dealer installed clear bra (on half the hood, front bumper, inside the door handles, and a few other "hard wear" areas). I am doing a light polish on the whole car to insure the best possible finish before I apply Opti-coat, but I have a few questions that are probably dumb, but I have to ask anyway...haha.

1) Do you guys clay over the clear bra areas? I wouldn't think the clay could harm the clear bra in any way.

2) Do you polish over the clear bra or tape it off and avoid it?

3) Will the clear bra areas be able to absorb the coating? Basically is it a waste of coating to apply to those areas?
Click to expand...

I have worked with clear bra on numerous occasions and I will tell you what I do.

1. You need to know what type of film it is. This will be the key as to what you can do with the film.

2. I have clayed film plenty of time with no adverse effects.

3. I tape off all the edges of the film. I have played around with some older film that has started to "fog up" and I have cleaned the surface to restore the look to a degree.

4. If the film is anything but Xpel Ultimate film the do not coat the film. Xpel Ultimate has an automotive grade clear coat as a top coat on the film. This top coat it what separates the film from anything else are the market. Being that its a clear coat you will have no problem getting the coatings to bond properly.

Again you need to find out the type of film before you do any work.
 
Audios S6 said:
You can clay it, just make sure you only work the clay in one direction: from the clear bra side to the non clear bra side, else you will get clay stuck at the seem.

I know others have had success polishing clear bras, I think it was with M205 on a white pad on medium speed with a DA, but someone else should probably confirm that.

I've only put coatings under clear bra. Never tried on top, but it can be used on plastics, so why not clear bra?
Click to expand...

You should never coat then have the film installed. The coatings lower the surface tension and will not allow the film to adhere to the surface properly. This can lead to premature lifting and premature failure of the film.

Gtechniq Exo rejects Xpel Ultimate Paint Protection Film - YouTube
 
1.) No...I do not use clay/clay-substitutes on PPF. (They're abrasive!!)

2. Does the PPF really need to be polished...already?!?!
If so...(From the XPel PPF Company):

(Quote):
"The best solution is going to be to use 3M Perfect -It part# 06064 Machine Polish, with the coordinating buffing pad part# 05738. #Use a an Orbital buffer at the lowest speed and then gradually progress up as needed. #This must be done very carefully so that you don't burn through the film. #I usually hit the area a few times for about 15-30 seconds each time".
(End Quote)

Note:
I've also had success with 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material (3M # 05928) on a foam polishing pad, speed 2-3 on the PC, with very light pressure. Make sure to not linger more than 15-20 seconds on any area. You can always go back if needed...you never want to overheat the PPF!

3.) Always a "Best Practice" to personally contact the PPF manufacturer. Example:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...96-cquartz-not-compatible-xpel-clear-bra.html


Bob
 
Bob to your 3 point, Xpel states no issues per them
"Will Opticoat or cQuartz hurt the film?"

Sealants such as Opticoat and cQuartz will not hurt the film or interfere with our Ultimate paint protection film's self healing properties.
Click to expand...

Things might have changed since 2011 with CQUK and/or Xpel Ultimate. I installed CQUK on XU and did not see those issue from the thread you provided. I just have to do a re coat on and area that bedded to be replaced and saw no issues.
 
Thanks for all the quick replies fellas! After reading them and taking them into consideration this is what I am thinking:

1) I just went out and clayed the whole car including the clear bra areas. I am using a medium grade clay since the car is so new and lacks a lot of contamination. I think that helped me worry less about damaging the clear bra. I did not notice any ill effects from claying the bra.

2) I definitely plan on taping off the edges of the clear bra areas whether or not I polish ON it.

3) I'm a little hesitant now of polishing ON the clear bra areas. I had planed on using only white or green foam pads with either M205 or Menzerna SF4000 so the cut will be minimal, but I really don't want to risk damaging the clear bra. The only area that MIGHT need a little attention is the clear bra on half the hood.

4) I know Opti-Coat can be applied to plastic and metal so why not the clear bra? I don't see how it could hurt it. Should even add a little extra protection to it?
 
funx725 said:
1.) no...i do not use clay/clay-substitutes on ppf. (they're abrasive!!)

2. Does the ppf really need to be polished...already?!?!
If so...(from the xpel ppf company):

(quote):
"the best solution is going to be to use 3m perfect -it part# 06064 machine polish, with the coordinating buffing pad part# 05738. #use a an orbital buffer at the lowest speed and then gradually progress up as needed. #this must be done very carefully so that you don't burn through the film. #i usually hit the area a few times for about 15-30 seconds each time".
(end quote)

note:
i've also had success with 3m finesse-it ii finishing material (3m # 05928) on a foam polishing pad, speed 2-3 on the pc, with very light pressure. Make sure to not linger more than 15-20 seconds on any area. You can always go back if needed...you never want to overheat the ppf!

3.) always a "best practice" to personally contact the ppf manufacturer. Example:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...96-cquartz-not-compatible-xpel-clear-bra.html


bob
Click to expand...

what he said!
 
98LowRanger said:
Thanks for all the quick replies fellas! After reading them and taking them into consideration this is what I am thinking:

1) I just went out and clayed the whole car including the clear bra areas. I am using a medium grade clay since the car is so new and lacks a lot of contamination. I think that helped me worry less about damaging the clear bra. I did not notice any ill effects from claying the bra.

2) I definitely plan on taping off the edges of the clear bra areas whether or not I polish ON it.

3) I'm a little hesitant now of polishing ON the clear bra areas. I had planed on using only white or green foam pads with either M205 or Menzerna SF4000 so the cut will be minimal, but I really don't want to risk damaging the clear bra. The only area that MIGHT need a little attention is the clear bra on half the hood.

4) I know Opti-Coat can be applied to plastic and metal so why not the clear bra? I don't see how it could hurt it. Should even add a little extra protection to it?
Click to expand...
As to:

1.)
•Please shine your "swirl-finder light" on the now clayed clear-bra and then report the findings. Thanks.

•Just to note...Because of clays' abrasives:
-I never even clay paint, (let alone PPF),
unless I'm going to polish afterwards.

2.)
•Isn't this process dependent on resolution of your NO.4?

3.)
•Depends on your "swirl-finder light" results...Correct?

4.)
•Sounds like since you've already made this command decision:
-no need to bother with your above NO. 2


•Good Luck!!


Bob
 
I have an expel clear bra on my Z06. I have polished it with my flex using menzerna 4500.

I also have coated it with 22PLE and have had zero issues. :xyxthumbs:
 
RPM94 said:
I have an expel clear bra on my Z06. I have polished it with my flex using menzerna 4500.



I also have coated it with 22PLE and have had zero issues. :xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...


Don't spray opc on 22ple it will come off the clear bra.
 
You never did explain why you are claying and polishing the PPF innthe 1st place?

Did it fail the "Baggie Test"?

Are there visible defects, such as swirls and marring in the PPF?


Please, post some pictures

Thanks
 
FWIW I'm no pro but I have a full front XPEL Ultimate wrap on my Model S and I had no issues decontaminating , polishing, and coating over the film. I didn't even bother to wrap the film edges. I just did what I would normally do for a full 2 step correction. Aka citrus wash, Decontaminated using ONR as lube and nanoskin autoscrub mitt, then IronX, polished using medium and fine grade pads with HD Polish and HD adapt on griots garage DA polisher, IPA wipedown , then 2 coatings of 22ple.

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