DFB's Garage

It's been all over the shop here. We had a string of days in the high 20's / low 30's, then back to cold and wet, crazy wind, heavy rain......................
I'm over this weather 🤬 it's raining and 60km/h gusts today.
 
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At this point, I had some very stubborn bee droppings on the hood, roof and aluminium roller tonneau cover. While bee deposits are almost always harder to remove than you’d think, typically an alkaline or acidic soap will lift them away. Not here though, they’d clearly been on the car for some time. First, I tried a clay mitt to luck, then progressed to KCx TEA tar remover, still no luck. In the end, I had to get out the sledgehammer, KCx Eulex. Thankfully, this took care of the issue. Important to note, you need to be mindful of using Eulex on small sections as it has a very high evaporation rate and you don't want it drying on the paint, I also like to flush the area with water afterwards.
I just learned that worker bees hold their poop and purposely do not release it at the hive!

Moving on to detailing...I was surprised that the clay mitt does not remove them, but the first post of this bee dropping thread also mentions clay not removing them. Somewhat unintuitive to me that clay can't take the bee droppings off, but it can remove surface contamination that is too small to see...

I have always been successful removing them after holding a soaked towel on them for a bit, as mentioned by Mike Phillips for bird droppings in the past. The issue is when theres a lot of bee droppings. I have considered having old ripped up towels for this purpose, but have discovered that cutting up microfiber towels ends up with me getting lint all over the place 😔

On a related note, do you use a Bug and tar pad? I got one sitting around that I want to use once or twice and then toss... I find they don't rinse clean enough -- or that they don't rinse clean easily enough -- for my liking, which makes me not want to re-use them.
 
Deyon,
Interesting to see that you have used the Feynlab. I personally love the product.
I live roughly 400 miles from Feynlab headquarters and here the price Is $26.00 including shipping. It's a few $ cheaper ( less shipping cost ) if purchased on Amazon.
I'm not a scent person at all so the scent to me is not an issue.
 
Deyon,
Interesting to see that you have used the Feynlab. I personally love the product.
I live roughly 400 miles from Feynlab headquarters and here the price Is $26.00 including shipping. It's a few $ cheaper ( less shipping cost ) if purchased on Amazon.
I'm not a scent person at all so the scent to me is not an issue.
I'm lucky to live about 20 minutes from Feynlab, they actually moved closer to me actually from where they were before

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I'm lucky to live about 20 minutes from Feynlab, they actually moved closer to me actually from where they were before

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
A few weeks ago when i was at my daughters in Logan Square i considered driving to Feynlab to pick some up but figured it would cost more in gas than to ship it.
Maybe next time.
 
I just learned that worker bees hold their poop and purposely do not release it at the hive!

Moving on to detailing...I was surprised that the clay mitt does not remove them, but the first post of this bee dropping thread also mentions clay not removing them. Somewhat unintuitive to me that clay can't take the bee droppings off, but it can remove surface contamination that is too small to see...

I have always been successful removing them after holding a soaked towel on them for a bit, as mentioned by Mike Phillips for bird droppings in the past. The issue is when theres a lot of bee droppings. I have considered having old ripped up towels for this purpose, but have discovered that cutting up microfiber towels ends up with me getting lint all over the place 😔

Keep in mind that the vehicle in question had absolutely no protection on it and hadn't been washed for several months. So, whatever these droppings were, they had been baked onto the paint.

On a related note, do you use a Bug and tar pad? I got one sitting around that I want to use once or twice and then toss... I find they don't rinse clean enough -- or that they don't rinse clean easily enough -- for my liking, which makes me not want to re-use them.

I have the TRC Jersey Bug Scrubbers. These are microfiber pads with a perforated side for bugs, and a smooth side for tar deposits. They seem to rinse out properly after use. I very rarely need to use these pads due to how effective modern pre-treatments have become. Same applies for bug removers. Both are worth having though for moments when all else fails.



 
Deyon,
Interesting to see that you have used the Feynlab. I personally love the product.
I live roughly 400 miles from Feynlab headquarters and here the price Is $26.00 including shipping. It's a few $ cheaper ( less shipping cost ) if purchased on Amazon.
I'm not a scent person at all so the scent to me is not an issue.

A lot of these smaller brands are brought into the country by smaller companies trying to offer a point of difference. Typically, this will be a detailing shop with a detailing supply store as a side hustle. By the time products have been shipped across the world, transported and warehoused, a profit margin added, well you end up with lineup of overpriced products. And because they end up being slow sellers, when something does sell out, its many months before said company can justify the cost of re-stocking, which leads customers to go elsewhere. The same thing happens to the Australian-based brands being imported into the US market, NV Car Care and ShineMate for example.

So, when you have companies like Gyeon, Gtechniq and Carpro undercutting these brands with equal or better quality and performance, it becomes a hard sell.

Anyway, I do quite like the Feynlab detailer.



 
I knew you'd like Feynlab Ceramic Spray Detailer and I'm sure you agree about the name being used, "Detailer", that term applies to something like the old, boring burgundy bottle Mequiars sells

I know you don't use RW's too much, especially the one Feynlab sells, their v3 but it's flat out the best PURE cleaning RW I've ever usedļø

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I knew you'd like Feynlab Ceramic Spray Detailer and I'm sure you agree about the name being used, "Detailer", that term applies to something like the old, boring burgundy bottle Mequiars sells

I know you don't use RW's too much, especially the one Feynlab sells, their v3 but it's flat out the best PURE cleaning RW I've ever usedļø

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
Did you see Jon from forensic detailing doing a test out between this and colonite?
 
After few big days on the tools, it was nice to get some tinker time in the garage today. In the box seat, the Ranger....................

The weather has been so unpredictable this spring. When I last washed the Ranger on Saturday, the temperature reached 31-degrees (88f), about right for this time of the year. The next day it was cold and windy with a top of 17-degrees (62f). Annoyingly, a 60-second shower of rain undid my efforts 24-hours earlier, littering the car with dirty water spots. :rolleyes:

It's always a satisfying moment when you finish off a bottle of product, or two in this case.....................



The first to go was P&S Wide Open, which is from their off-road line. P&S are not known for great soaps, most of them refuse to foam and are poorly concentrated. Wide Open bucks that trend in that it can foam and is acceptably concentrated, so you use less per application. And the slightly alkaline formula means it can actually clean! So, I'd say this is arguably their best soap. And yet, Wide Open is nothing more than adequate, middle of the road, good but not great. I used up the bottle in my wheel bucket and won't be re-ordering.



The second was Inspiration Radiance. Nearly everything about this soap would land it on my sin-bin list; poor concentration, lack of foaming ability, a terribly dated scent, and a lack of ultimate slickness under the wash media. Wash-n-wax style soaps like Radiance are not my usual preference, mostly because they are heavily compromised to achieve a happy balance between cleaning power and the ability to leave something behind. And yet, I actually like this soap, which stems from the wax-like gloss and slickness it leaves behind. Will Radiance easily clean a filthy vehicle, not really. Will it leave substantial protection, hardly. Does it put on a heathy foam party, never. But the end result is so satisfying. Will I re-order Inspiration Radiance? Probably not, but not because I don't like using it, rather a lack of need for a soap like this and the superiority of others like it (Koch Chemie CES for example).



Following the wash with Radiance, I went with Bead Maker as the drying aid. And what a lovely combo this is, both having that wax-like look and feel. I've said this for a while now, but solid/non-metallic colours seem to look best with a wax or synthetic sealant, Si02 products can look very sterile in comparison.



For today's detail, there were two additional extras -

- A very quick rinse down of the engine bay, an application of Hyper Dressing, and a blow down with the EGO to distribute the dressing and remove excess water.

- Cleaning and reapplying Reload to the black plastic wing mirrors, fender features, door handles, bumper insert and window trims. I really need to go over these areas with Solution Finish but Reload is a quick and easy alternative.



Clean again!
 
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Happy Friday!! :cool:

For today, the mighty XR8 was next in line. I had planned on filming this, but I didn't think viewers would want to hear an arborist running a woodchipper at full tilt the next street over.

These are my favorite wheels to clean!



Wheel Cleaning -
Tyres scrubbed with P&S Undressed, wheels washed with KCx GSF, Hydr02 Lite applied, Atom Mac on the rotors.

Exterior -
Washed using GSF, drying aid was ADS Amplify, door jambs also with Amplify. The engine bay was wiped down with Carpro ECH20, glass via KCx RRW at 128:1.

Interior -
A very quick vac of the drivers side floor mat, then a general wipe down with a damp TRC Eagle 500. Front windscreen cleaned with Invisible Glass.

Wheel & Tyre Dressing -
To start, the tyres were deep cleaned using Tarminator. The wheels and exhaust tips were given a wipe down with Bead Maker. For something a little different, I went with Gtechniq T2. This is not one of the WOW products, but it's very easy to apply and offers excellent coverage. If you like that barely there look to a tyre dressing, then T2 is a great option.









And what a glorious, peaceful spring day it was for detailing! Sunny, not too hot, not too windy, music blaring on the Airpod Max! :cool: I suspect the guy across the road got to witness his neighbour rocking out to Nothing's Wrong by Haim. I don't care though, it made me feel good. 😁

 
2025 XR6 Detail

The time has come to give the XR6 some love. I last polished this car in December 2020, and in truth, its needed attention for a while now. Thing is, with how many times I’ve polished this car over its 17-year life, I’m starting to get nervous about how much clearcoat I have left to play with. Ideally, you’d whip out a paint depth gauge, but for whatever reason I don’t have one.

The paint doesn’t need much, and I won’t be pursuing total correction. I’m at point now where chasing every single scratch or mark is waste of time. There, I said it. The reality is, unless you put the car in a bubble and NEVER touch it again, marring is inevitable. So, you either live with the marring, or go through a cycle of enhancement and maintenance, enhancement and maintenance………………….This is also a reason why I say to ignore longevity claims of ceramic coatings, especially ones with bogus 7 to 10 year figures because the paint will need enhancement long before that theoretical end date.

PREP WASHING

As you would expect for a garage queen that is washed to death, there really wasn’t much to be done here. Only four products were used today, ADS Decon Soap, Carpro Clay Lube (at 10:1), TRC Ultra Clay Scrubber and Carpro Eraser.



I won't be touching the wheels for this detail, so I foamed them with Touch-less, scrubbed the tyres with Wise Guy, then rinsed.......done. From here, the whole car was rinsed for the next steps.

From here, I foamed with Decon Soap then went ahead with the contact wash. I love ADS Decon Soap because it's super slick and stays on the car for the whole wash rather than disappearing as you work. Great product! After another rinse, I went around with Carpro Clay Lube and a TRC Ultra Clay Scrubber. I really didn't want to douse this car in iron remover, and from experience, it's not a worthwhile step on these garage queens. So, a very light clay treatment was all I felt was needed, and even then, I'm not sure how much contamination there was to remove. Still, I did it to tick that check box. This was my first try of Carpro's clay lube, it's probably not as slick as Gyeon's but I like how it stays active for longer and even lathers up a little bit as you work. It also rinses freely.



After one final rinse, the old girl was driven back into the garage for a drying. After a blow down with the Ego, including the door jambs to flush out those stray drips, I went around with two large Gauntlet towels and Carpro Eraser to finish off the drying and prep for polishing. The appropriate areas were then taped up.

TODAYS OBSERVATIONAL RANT -

Most manufacturers of high-pH soaps sell them as a "strip wash" to remove existing protection products. Let me tell you, in most cases that is just not going to happen. This is especially so with modern ceramic coatings and spray sealants. Yes, if you ramped up the dilution strength and repeatedly washed the car over and over, maybe you'd see a stripping effect. But who is doing that? Not me. So, after washing your car with these products and you still see water beading, this is basically normal.

In my case today, the decon wash knocked back some of the water behaviour, but even then, that often happens after washing with soap as they tend to leave a slight film behind. After the clay step, there was another slight degradation to the water beading. The Eraser wipe/dry process will have played a small part as well. Polishing will ultimately finish things off.

So why use these soaps if they don't actually remove an LSP? The idea is to remove as much surface level contamination as possible prior to hitting the paint with clay bars and polishers. So, while the "protection" may still be there, it's at least clean before you go rubbing on the paint. This improves the effectiveness and longevity of your clay and polishing pads.

Note - If your car only has something minor on the paint (say a detail spray), or a failing wax or sealant at the end of its run, then yes, a decon soap will toast whatever is left. For most enthusiasts who are forever "topping off" the protection with drying aids, this probably won't apply. I guess what I'm saying is to be realistic in what you will achieve with these soaps rather than saying product didn't work.

POLISHING -

The last time I polished this car, it was my first time polishing with battery power. And what a revelation. Unless you are running a polisher all day every day, we are at the point now where a power cord is basically obsolete. No management of cords, more flexibility, superior balance.

A lot has happened between 2020 and 2025. Like many who were at home for most of 2020 and into 2021, I doubled down on detailing to save my sanity. That included everything from trying new products, to expanding my tool artillery, even learning new skills and methods such as ceramic coatings and rinse-less washing. I also did my best to make my garage more functional, more efficient. The sink was transformative, likewise the new flooring. The cabinets meant everything had a place, and the wall mount pressure washer made washing so convenient. And during all of that, I was like a dog with a bone, it was an obsession that meant I was pursuing something positive and distracting myself from the world, the people I was working with, my depression and chronic pain. The amount of time spent researching just the nozzles to go with that pressure washer.......insanely excessive. So, when people would question why anyone would need 15 different tyre dressings or an expensive pressure washer, they were missing the point.

Anyway, a lot has changed, but then all but one of the cars remains the same. The last time I polished the XR6, I used my then 1-day old ShineMate polishers with a new pad system, ShineMate Black Diamond. These machines with those pads were so much more natural feeling than my old Waxit polisher and huge Lake Country CSS pads, suddenly I felt more confident. I then paired both with an old favourite, Scholl S20 Black.





Fast forward to 2025, well I didn't want to hammer the paint too hard, so the pad and compound choice reflect this. That means a ShineMate orange polishing pad with Carpro Reflect. For the roof and hood, I needed to step up to the Rupes turquoise intermediate pad with Sonax Perfect Finish. In addition to the Rupes HLR15, this was my first proper go using the new ShineMate EB212.



This little machine rocks! The EB-351 3-inch it replaced was far too bulky and heavy for such a small pad size, to the point where I didn't like using it. I sat back and considered various alternatives from ShineMate, Rupes and Flex, but nothing really hit the mark. Then the little Mirka became the benchmark 3-inch, but is just too expensive for what it is. Then ShineMate dropped the EB212 earlier in the year, basically a Mirka for a third of the price. If you can't afford or justify the Mirka, this EB212 is the best 3-inch polisher on the market.

Despite it's compact size, this EB212 has more grunt than the larger framed EB351. It rarely stalls, probably the best d/a polisher I've experienced in that regard. And because it doesn't stall, its more effective in getting the job done. I absolutely love the size, basically taking everything I adore about the Rupes LHR75 pneumatic, but without the hose hanging off the back. Actually, the battery balances the machine better, especially with the larger 5.0 ah version. In terms of battery life, I used this machine the most today and still had power left to spare when I called quits on the session. Only two negatives for me would be how hot the machine gets, so you need to be mindful not to block the cooling vents with your fingers. It can also be a little hit and miss with the double-tap throttle lock feature. Apart from that, its a winner.







And that's where I leave it for today. I still have the doors, side skirts, front bumper, wing mirrors and door trims left to polish. I also want to polish the glass and treat the rear bumper insert with Solution Finish. Then it will be time for some fresh protection.

I've been struggling with depression this week, and as usual, I shut down. This has been compounded by my little buddy being sick. He'd been at the vet since Tuesday morning, and I've been lost without him. Thankfully, he came home this evening and is much perkier than Tuesday morning, I just hope he continues to recover. Over the last few days, I've been fighting the feeling that I'm rapidly approaching that moment we all dread. I'm not exaggerating when I say he is the only friend I have close to me, I just want him to be happy.

Starting on the XR6 today at least gave me an escape for a few hours, a distraction.
 
That blue looks like liquid. I think you're correct about the iron remover, if you remember the last time I used it on the FJ I got virtually zero reaction, and it's parked outside mostly. You posited that regular washing and good protection stops anything bonding to the paint.

Glad to hear the pup is back home and feeling better.
 
There was to be a XR6 part two today, but....................

I had to make the decision I knew in my heart was coming, I just didn't think it would happen so quickly. Not long after coming home, my beautiful boy went downhill. He slept next to me all night, in clear discomfort which I knew wasn't good. After talking with the Vet, he had gone downhill so fast that further treatment would not have been beneficial. They organized a house call, and he slipped away so peacefully in his favourite spot on the couch with his paws in my hand.

I know I did the "right" thing, so why does it feel like I betrayed him. Faych was my best friend, he was the most placid, trusting, loving and empathic soul I've ever come across. I gave him the best life I could.

I apologise if this is too raw, I'm venting here because I just don't know what else to do. I'm a beyond lost, it hurts so much.
 
Sorry for your loss Deyon and I've heard this many times but its VERY true and I know you did..."appreciate the times you DID have!"

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I've always said detailing has been my distraction when things are tough, this is no different and I hope the following posts don't come across the wrong way. I'm just trying to keep busy..........................

2025 XR6 Detail – Part 2

Picking up where I left of, that means more polishing, most of which being the more intricated areas.

Polishing (continued) -

Because I hate polishing front bumpers, I decided to get this out of the way first. Before starting, I added some additional taping around fog light bezels, headlights and grill inserts. Again, Carpro Reflect was teamed with an orange ShineMate polishing pad. For the more intricate sections, the iBrid Nano was used with the 12mm orbit and Rupes yellow foam pad.

Once the front bumper was done, I began rolling through the doors, side skirts, wing mirrors and glossy black B-pillar trims. For the doors, I used all three machines. The Nano was used around the handles, the EB212 3-inch for the belt line, contoured lower section and side skirts, the HLR15 5-inch for mid sections. The B-pillar trims and mirrors were next, the Nano with yellow Rupes pads were used here, one on the machine and one used by hand.

I set up the camera to show the EB212 in action -


Glass -

With the paint done, it was time to polish the glass. I like polishing glass, although not necessarily for the task itself. Instead, I love how polished glass disappears from behind the steering wheel.

To start, I needed additional taping around the windows to prevent staining the rubber trims and protect surrounding paintwork. Choice of compound was P&S Clarity CrĆØme, first with the Nano in rotary mode for around the edges, followed by the EB212 and blue Lake Country cutting pad for the bulk.



With glass polishing, keep in mind that you aren’t really ā€œcorrectingā€ the surface like you would with paint. Even with heavy duty compounds and pads, it will take your hours to remove a single scratch…………..if you are lucky. In which case, Carpro Ceri-Glass or Cerium Oxide teamed with a rayon pad would be your best bet. In my case, glass polishing is about deep cleaning. I like to use Clarity CrĆØme, but any medium to heavy cutting compound teamed with foam or wool pads will also do the job, I'd probably avoid microfiber pads due to the higher heat generation.

Protection –

I’m done with ceramic coatings on garage queens. Longevity and ultimate chemical resistance are not a factor, especially with how ā€œweā€ tend to continue topping things off with detailers and spray sealants. This is why after 5-years, the XR6 still showed supreme water behaviour. Having said that, on daily drivers a coating is probably a better option, but even then, I must prefer the user experience of a wax or sealant, far less stressful. There, I said it, again.

So, once again I’m reaching for an old favourite…………the now discontinued (in Australia) Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. I landed on this product way back in the early 2010’s after searching for something new/better than the Meguiar’s NXT paste wax and Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection that I had been using. This was back when Waxit was a sponsor of a local forum, so I reached out asking for advice, the reply suggested I try DGPS as it would suit the dark blue Sensation paint. I’ve used it on and off ever since. Are there better sealants out there, probably. Are there easier to apply LSP’s available, probably. Do I enjoy using the product, absolutely. Does the end result give me a sense of satisfaction, absolutely. Does the paint look and feel amazing, 100% yes. I remember not long after using DGPS for the first time, a family friend dropped around while I was washing the XR6, he instantly wanted to know what I had on the paint, he’d seen nothing like it before.



Prior to application, I used compressed air to blast out any polish dust from the door jambs and panel gaps. This was then followed by a heavy wipe down using Carpro Eraser.

As always, for the large areas I apply DGPS with a 5-inch dual action polisher and soft black waxing pad. I went with the ShineMate EB351 for this task because speed one on this unit is considerably slower than the Rupes, and for waxing you don't want or need pad speed. Intricate areas were treated with a foam applicator pad by hand. Once the entire vehicle is coated, leave the sealant to bond for 30 - 45min, then buff the residue. The wipe off is super smooth if applied in a light, even manner, however I recommend at least 4 to 6 towels to do this to prevent dust build up. You must then allow 12-hours for DGPS to cure before exposure to moisture.





 
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Thank you to all that posted and reached out, it means more than you know. I think I was so numbed yesterday, it all happened so quickly. Today has been horribly tough, I haven’t felt this level of pain since my mentoring grandmother passed 15 years ago. I now understand what people describe as feeling empty, a sense of breathlessness and a deep tension from within that cannot to be elevated.
 
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