Klasse Act
Well-known member
- Feb 21, 2012
- 28,434
- 3,978
DFB's Garage
- Thread starter DFB
- Start date
DFB
Well-known member
- Aug 12, 2019
- 5,718
- 4,800
- Thread starter
- #3,062
XR6 Major Service –
This morning I dropped the XR6 off for a fairly comprehensive service. In a few months, the car will turn 18-years old, which will also mark 18-years of ownership. Apart from the gearbox, the car was given a full reset of the fluids and some other issues I needed addressed.
Servicing is tough for me for a couple of reasons. Firstly, Ford specifies 15,000-km or 12-months service intervals, “whichever occurs first”. But I just don’t do enough km’s within a 12-month period, and while I know certain fluids are time critical, sending a car in for a service that’s done less than 1000km since the last visit becomes overkill. I followed that for many years within the Ford system. Secondly, I have severe anxiety leaving my car in the hands of someone else, the result of too many bad experiences. The solution to that would be to do it myself, but I just don’t have the confidence, especially on more intricate jobs that I wanted doing.
I explain that because the last time I had the XR6 serviced was May 2024. Apart from when I had the brakes upgraded, every single one of the 15 services on this car have been done within the Ford dealer network. I persisted with that for too long, and considering the age of this car, and the Falcon having been out of production for a decade now, a Ford dealer no longer holds value in my eyes. So today I took it to an independent, the same who did the brakes at the end of 2023.
I have a folder for each of my cars, past and present. This keeps everything on the car together, from the original sales contract, to registration papers, service invoices, parts invoices, battery replacements, upgrades ect. As much as anything, this allows me to keep track of what each car has had done over the years, and no doubt it will help sell a car in the future.
Before booking the service, I looked back at my records and formed a list of what I wanted done. Based on time, the coolant (every 3-years) and brake fluid (every 2-years) needed replacement. I also wanted the diff oil and fuel filter changed, probably not essential at this point but worth doing in my opinion. The rear bump stops needed replacing, the originals to the car were in bad condition. I also had a rattle in the front left calliper that needed to be looked at.
I’ve always supplied my own oil for the XR6, from the first service it’s had Castrol Edge 5w-30. I don’t mess with oil specs, just use what the manufacturer specifies and leave it alone. On this occasion, I also supplied a Motorcraft oil filter and fuel filter, as well as a new OEM drain plug. The diff fluid is Castrol Transmax 80W-140 Limited Slip, while the car doesn’t have an LSD, it meets the Ford specification. The brakes got Penrite Super Dot 4 fluid, the coolant was shop supplied.
For the rear bump stops, the rubber OEM replacements retail for about $100 each. Having been told that these rubber items deteriorate quickly, I didn’t see the reason to spend the premium on the OEM parts. So, I went with polyurethane aftermarket replacements from SuperPro. Installing these isn’t that difficult, but lying on my back for 30-minutes trying to get them pushed onto their pegs didn’t sound appealing. So, while they had it up on the hoist, I figured it would take them less than 5-minutes to do, an easy decision.
For the brake calliper rattle, this is a common complaint with Falcon’s using these PBR sliding callipers. From what I’ve learnt, with age the slide pins begin to exhibit excessive movement in the bores, and over time that movement turns into a rattle when going over bumps. There are several ways to solve the issue, from lubricating to replacing the pins, installing upgraded aftermarket pins with a superior rubber seal, even total replacement of the calliper. Naturally, the price of fixing this problem varies widely.
On this occasion, the mechanic removed and lubricated the slide pins, then used anti-rattle paste on the pads and callipers. On the drive home the rattle had disappeared, although I do realize this is likely a temporary solution. If/when the rattle returns, I’ll likely look into getting a set of the revised calliper pins.
Below is a price and parts breakdown of what went into this service. Naturally, I didn’t use all 10-litres of oil, so the actual cost of oil would be less, same for the brakes and diff oil. However, I’ve included the total price for illustrative purposes.
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So, was going independent cheaper than having the same work done at a dealership? Maybe, maybe not. I'd also question if buying your own parts and fluids is saving you money, at least I got to choose what went in the car. I will say though, I felt in better hands on this occasion, I even got to speak with the mechanic who worked on the car. There was a refreshing honesty to his responses, and he knew what he was talking about rather than a “service advisor” reading off the piece of paper in their hands. I asked if the diff bushes needing replacement as in the past the Ford dealer had told me they were split, he gave me a very fast NO and knowing smile. “We don’t replace stuff just because it’s a common problem”. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
So, that's one of the more positive mechanic experiences I've had. And to cap it all off, I managed to pick the car up before it started raining.
This morning I dropped the XR6 off for a fairly comprehensive service. In a few months, the car will turn 18-years old, which will also mark 18-years of ownership. Apart from the gearbox, the car was given a full reset of the fluids and some other issues I needed addressed.
Servicing is tough for me for a couple of reasons. Firstly, Ford specifies 15,000-km or 12-months service intervals, “whichever occurs first”. But I just don’t do enough km’s within a 12-month period, and while I know certain fluids are time critical, sending a car in for a service that’s done less than 1000km since the last visit becomes overkill. I followed that for many years within the Ford system. Secondly, I have severe anxiety leaving my car in the hands of someone else, the result of too many bad experiences. The solution to that would be to do it myself, but I just don’t have the confidence, especially on more intricate jobs that I wanted doing.
I explain that because the last time I had the XR6 serviced was May 2024. Apart from when I had the brakes upgraded, every single one of the 15 services on this car have been done within the Ford dealer network. I persisted with that for too long, and considering the age of this car, and the Falcon having been out of production for a decade now, a Ford dealer no longer holds value in my eyes. So today I took it to an independent, the same who did the brakes at the end of 2023.
I have a folder for each of my cars, past and present. This keeps everything on the car together, from the original sales contract, to registration papers, service invoices, parts invoices, battery replacements, upgrades ect. As much as anything, this allows me to keep track of what each car has had done over the years, and no doubt it will help sell a car in the future.
Before booking the service, I looked back at my records and formed a list of what I wanted done. Based on time, the coolant (every 3-years) and brake fluid (every 2-years) needed replacement. I also wanted the diff oil and fuel filter changed, probably not essential at this point but worth doing in my opinion. The rear bump stops needed replacing, the originals to the car were in bad condition. I also had a rattle in the front left calliper that needed to be looked at.
I’ve always supplied my own oil for the XR6, from the first service it’s had Castrol Edge 5w-30. I don’t mess with oil specs, just use what the manufacturer specifies and leave it alone. On this occasion, I also supplied a Motorcraft oil filter and fuel filter, as well as a new OEM drain plug. The diff fluid is Castrol Transmax 80W-140 Limited Slip, while the car doesn’t have an LSD, it meets the Ford specification. The brakes got Penrite Super Dot 4 fluid, the coolant was shop supplied.
For the rear bump stops, the rubber OEM replacements retail for about $100 each. Having been told that these rubber items deteriorate quickly, I didn’t see the reason to spend the premium on the OEM parts. So, I went with polyurethane aftermarket replacements from SuperPro. Installing these isn’t that difficult, but lying on my back for 30-minutes trying to get them pushed onto their pegs didn’t sound appealing. So, while they had it up on the hoist, I figured it would take them less than 5-minutes to do, an easy decision.
For the brake calliper rattle, this is a common complaint with Falcon’s using these PBR sliding callipers. From what I’ve learnt, with age the slide pins begin to exhibit excessive movement in the bores, and over time that movement turns into a rattle when going over bumps. There are several ways to solve the issue, from lubricating to replacing the pins, installing upgraded aftermarket pins with a superior rubber seal, even total replacement of the calliper. Naturally, the price of fixing this problem varies widely.
On this occasion, the mechanic removed and lubricated the slide pins, then used anti-rattle paste on the pads and callipers. On the drive home the rattle had disappeared, although I do realize this is likely a temporary solution. If/when the rattle returns, I’ll likely look into getting a set of the revised calliper pins.
Below is a price and parts breakdown of what went into this service. Naturally, I didn’t use all 10-litres of oil, so the actual cost of oil would be less, same for the brakes and diff oil. However, I’ve included the total price for illustrative purposes.
So, was going independent cheaper than having the same work done at a dealership? Maybe, maybe not. I'd also question if buying your own parts and fluids is saving you money, at least I got to choose what went in the car. I will say though, I felt in better hands on this occasion, I even got to speak with the mechanic who worked on the car. There was a refreshing honesty to his responses, and he knew what he was talking about rather than a “service advisor” reading off the piece of paper in their hands. I asked if the diff bushes needing replacement as in the past the Ford dealer had told me they were split, he gave me a very fast NO and knowing smile. “We don’t replace stuff just because it’s a common problem”. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
So, that's one of the more positive mechanic experiences I've had. And to cap it all off, I managed to pick the car up before it started raining.
Klasse Act
Well-known member
- Feb 21, 2012
- 28,434
- 3,978
Sounds like you found a good shop Deyon! Btw, how often does someone try and buy that car from you
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
Tasmania
Well-known member
- Jan 12, 2017
- 2,154
- 1,607
$100 an hour at a private garage was interesting, I thought it would be $80 but they have overheads to pay and I guess stay within the dealership ballpark.
Choosing your own brand of products is a smart idea and for them to let you is good, I'd stick with this place over a dealership.
That's why we left ours, we found better service elsewhere and he even said dealership mechanics are paid to not fix some problems just over look them.
Choosing your own brand of products is a smart idea and for them to let you is good, I'd stick with this place over a dealership.
That's why we left ours, we found better service elsewhere and he even said dealership mechanics are paid to not fix some problems just over look them.
DFB
Well-known member
- Aug 12, 2019
- 5,718
- 4,800
- Thread starter
- #3,065
1996 MAZDA RX-7 DETAIL –
This car came to me after my father mentioned my skills to a long term friend. With intentions of selling his car, he wanted it polished before listing it for sale. At that point I knew it was RX-7, but had no idea what year or condition it was in. After a short phone call, he explained it was a 1986 RX-7 and that he would bring it around for me to take a look. At that point I was quite nervous considering the age of the paint. The next day when he turned up, that’s when it got interesting.
What greeted me in the driveway was NOT an 80’s RX-7, rather a 90’s FD model RX-7. Puzzled, I again asked what year it was, and again told a 1986. Because the car still had a rego sticker on the windscreen, which were made redundant more than a decade ago, I noted it said 1996. From here, the more he spoke of the car, the more it resonated…………………
This Mazda is quite a special car! And not just because of the obvious desirability factor from being a Japanese cult classic. The client bought the car brand new in 1996 with 12 km on the clock, and despite being 30 years old, its only done 52,000 kms (32,000 miles). He has never driven it in the rain, never parked it in the sun, and importantly, never modified. The car has been driven and enjoyed, but never unreasonably flogged. Does any of this sound familiar?
I have no doubt the owner had some reservations of handing this car over to a stranger. The way he talked about it and the condition it was in, this car is his baby. Clearly my Dad talked up my skills, but when he came over and spotted the condition of my own cars and the garage setup, he remarked that he didn’t trust anyone else to touch it. So, I hope his mind was at ease leaving it with me.
THE BRIEF -
For such a well-cared for vehicle, you could easily assume there wasn’t much to do. And to a degree, that’s true. For example, the door jambs were clean, the rubber trims in excellent condition, no water-spots on the paint or glass, a clean interior, no obvious contamination. Clearly, it’s been maintained very well.
The main focus for this car was a paint enhancement, and I was also asked to check out the leather seats.
WHEELS & TYRES -
While the wheel face presented well, clearly the barrels hadn’t been maintained properly owing to a build-up of brake dust. Whenever dealing with long term brake dust deposits, there is only so much you can do without taking the wheels off the car, not something I want to do on a customer’s car, especially one this rare.
The tyres were scrubbed with Wise Guy, the wheels got pre-treated with NV Purge, then contact washed with foamed Brake Buster. Once clean, I followed with Hydr02, then Atom Mac on the rotors. After this, the wheels looked good and only the closest inspection would reveal what remained.
During this step, I also polished the exhaust tips with P21S Polishing Soap.
DECONTAMINATION WASH –
Because of how clean the car was, I skipped the multi-step, multi-pH decontamination process I normally go through. After a pre-rinse, I went around and applied NV Purify and allowed it to dwell while packing away the wheel cleaning kit. On return, I noticed very little iron reaction. I later asked if he had clayed or used an iron remover before, he hadn't. After rinsing the iron remover, I foamed with KCx Active Foam and went ahead with the contact wash. The paint had absolutely nothing on it in terms of protection, the water behaviour completely flat.
At this point, the paint was feeling relatively smooth but also quite grabby owing to the complete lack of protection on the car. The only rough feeling area was the rear bumper, which is pretty normal. So, the paint and glass were treated with a clay mitt and Gyeon Clay Lube. The final step was a thorough rinse before moving into the garage. To dry, the blower was of limited use considering how flat the water behaviour was, so I followed with a large drying towel and Carpro Eraser.
POLISHING -
Being an older vehicle, there was quite a lot of rubber trim to tape on this car. That included the door trims and seals, the front and rear windscreen rubbers, the sunroof rubber surround, the old-school aerial, front windscreen scuttle, rear wiper pedestal, rear washer jet, the front chin splitter, and the various side marker lights.
It was then time to get polishing. The paint condition was great, just a lot of love marks and random isolated scratches. The gloss black rear tail lamp connecting trim was also hazed out. I had explained to the owner I wasn’t going to hammer down on the paint chasing every single scratch. I did try several combinations, gradually stepping up in aggression, and yet I wasn’t seeing a corresponding increase in defect removal. So, I wound back and played it safe, the last thing I wanted to do was burn through the clear on such a rare, original and valuable vehicle. That meant using Carpro Essence with a blue intermediate ShineMate foam pad, used in conjunction with my iBrid Nano, ShineMate EB212 3-inch and ShineMate EB351 5-inch.
I also polished the glass as it was lacking clarity. For this car, I used the brilliant Griot’s Fast Correcting Crème and a yellow ShineMate foam cutting pad. Machine choice here was the ShineMate EB212 for the side glass, and the Rupes HLR15 for the front and rear windscreens.
After removing all of the tape, I went around with Meguiar’s M39 to clean up the rubber trims and plastic bumper splitters. While attended to other tasks, I returned about an hour later with Carpro Eraser to wipe down the paint and glass.
PROTECTION –
While Essence can be used as standalone protection, I decided to follow with a layer of Carpro Reload to bump up the gloss, slickness and protection. For the glass, I just wiped down with Opti-Coat Glass Clean & Protect. The windscreen scuttle, plastic front splitter and rear diffuser were treated with Reload as well.
I didn’t do an engine bay detail on this car, although I did give it a quick wipe down with ECH20.
Continued next post.....................
This car came to me after my father mentioned my skills to a long term friend. With intentions of selling his car, he wanted it polished before listing it for sale. At that point I knew it was RX-7, but had no idea what year or condition it was in. After a short phone call, he explained it was a 1986 RX-7 and that he would bring it around for me to take a look. At that point I was quite nervous considering the age of the paint. The next day when he turned up, that’s when it got interesting.
What greeted me in the driveway was NOT an 80’s RX-7, rather a 90’s FD model RX-7. Puzzled, I again asked what year it was, and again told a 1986. Because the car still had a rego sticker on the windscreen, which were made redundant more than a decade ago, I noted it said 1996. From here, the more he spoke of the car, the more it resonated…………………
This Mazda is quite a special car! And not just because of the obvious desirability factor from being a Japanese cult classic. The client bought the car brand new in 1996 with 12 km on the clock, and despite being 30 years old, its only done 52,000 kms (32,000 miles). He has never driven it in the rain, never parked it in the sun, and importantly, never modified. The car has been driven and enjoyed, but never unreasonably flogged. Does any of this sound familiar?
I have no doubt the owner had some reservations of handing this car over to a stranger. The way he talked about it and the condition it was in, this car is his baby. Clearly my Dad talked up my skills, but when he came over and spotted the condition of my own cars and the garage setup, he remarked that he didn’t trust anyone else to touch it. So, I hope his mind was at ease leaving it with me.
THE BRIEF -
For such a well-cared for vehicle, you could easily assume there wasn’t much to do. And to a degree, that’s true. For example, the door jambs were clean, the rubber trims in excellent condition, no water-spots on the paint or glass, a clean interior, no obvious contamination. Clearly, it’s been maintained very well.
The main focus for this car was a paint enhancement, and I was also asked to check out the leather seats.
WHEELS & TYRES -
While the wheel face presented well, clearly the barrels hadn’t been maintained properly owing to a build-up of brake dust. Whenever dealing with long term brake dust deposits, there is only so much you can do without taking the wheels off the car, not something I want to do on a customer’s car, especially one this rare.
The tyres were scrubbed with Wise Guy, the wheels got pre-treated with NV Purge, then contact washed with foamed Brake Buster. Once clean, I followed with Hydr02, then Atom Mac on the rotors. After this, the wheels looked good and only the closest inspection would reveal what remained.
During this step, I also polished the exhaust tips with P21S Polishing Soap.
DECONTAMINATION WASH –
Because of how clean the car was, I skipped the multi-step, multi-pH decontamination process I normally go through. After a pre-rinse, I went around and applied NV Purify and allowed it to dwell while packing away the wheel cleaning kit. On return, I noticed very little iron reaction. I later asked if he had clayed or used an iron remover before, he hadn't. After rinsing the iron remover, I foamed with KCx Active Foam and went ahead with the contact wash. The paint had absolutely nothing on it in terms of protection, the water behaviour completely flat.
At this point, the paint was feeling relatively smooth but also quite grabby owing to the complete lack of protection on the car. The only rough feeling area was the rear bumper, which is pretty normal. So, the paint and glass were treated with a clay mitt and Gyeon Clay Lube. The final step was a thorough rinse before moving into the garage. To dry, the blower was of limited use considering how flat the water behaviour was, so I followed with a large drying towel and Carpro Eraser.
POLISHING -
Being an older vehicle, there was quite a lot of rubber trim to tape on this car. That included the door trims and seals, the front and rear windscreen rubbers, the sunroof rubber surround, the old-school aerial, front windscreen scuttle, rear wiper pedestal, rear washer jet, the front chin splitter, and the various side marker lights.
It was then time to get polishing. The paint condition was great, just a lot of love marks and random isolated scratches. The gloss black rear tail lamp connecting trim was also hazed out. I had explained to the owner I wasn’t going to hammer down on the paint chasing every single scratch. I did try several combinations, gradually stepping up in aggression, and yet I wasn’t seeing a corresponding increase in defect removal. So, I wound back and played it safe, the last thing I wanted to do was burn through the clear on such a rare, original and valuable vehicle. That meant using Carpro Essence with a blue intermediate ShineMate foam pad, used in conjunction with my iBrid Nano, ShineMate EB212 3-inch and ShineMate EB351 5-inch.
I also polished the glass as it was lacking clarity. For this car, I used the brilliant Griot’s Fast Correcting Crème and a yellow ShineMate foam cutting pad. Machine choice here was the ShineMate EB212 for the side glass, and the Rupes HLR15 for the front and rear windscreens.
After removing all of the tape, I went around with Meguiar’s M39 to clean up the rubber trims and plastic bumper splitters. While attended to other tasks, I returned about an hour later with Carpro Eraser to wipe down the paint and glass.
PROTECTION –
While Essence can be used as standalone protection, I decided to follow with a layer of Carpro Reload to bump up the gloss, slickness and protection. For the glass, I just wiped down with Opti-Coat Glass Clean & Protect. The windscreen scuttle, plastic front splitter and rear diffuser were treated with Reload as well.
I didn’t do an engine bay detail on this car, although I did give it a quick wipe down with ECH20.
Continued next post.....................
DFB
Well-known member
- Aug 12, 2019
- 5,718
- 4,800
- Thread starter
- #3,066
1996 RX-7 continued.......................
INTERIOR -
The interior didn’t really need much, nor did the owner request an interior detail. However, I did give it a quick vacuum and wipe down with ADS Pilot. The interior glass was in desperate need of cleaning, so I went over that with True Vue.
The only interior request was to take a look at the leather, the owner had noticed some mild discoloration appearing. I started with ColourLock Mild Leather Cleaner for the seats, it easily removed that discoloration and created a lovely uniform finish. For the steering wheel, gear knob and handbrake lever, I switched to Strong Leather Cleaner to cut through 30-years of grime.
From here, I applied Colour Leather Protector. Well, the leather virtually inhaled the protector, like a thirsty camel! That didn’t surprise me, the seats had NEVER been cleaned or conditioned in their 30-year life. The only maintenance has been a wipe down with a damp rag.
This was probably my favourite part of this detail, primarily because the leather responded so beautifully. The somewhat dry, patchy appearance transformed into a naturally soft, rich and uniform finish.
FINAL TOUCHES –
The tyres were treated to a generous layer of OG Tire Dressing, then knocked back with a towel after 15-minutes. Believe it or not, these Hankook’s replaced the factory originals. As part of the final inspection, I lightly wiped the paint down with Bead Maker for a little extra pop.
RESULTS -
White is so hard to make pop, it basically hides all of your hard work. Even so, I did make a massive improvement to how the car looks. The paint was completely lacking in gloss and felt quite "dry", well now its popping and feels ultra slick. The glass polishing played a part as well, likewise getting some dressing on the tyres.
Ready for customer pickup -
This car is remarkable for not being some over modified beast that’s been tuned to within an inch of its life. It’s stock as a rock and all the better for it. I would love to have given it a quick run around the block to see what it felt like. Having said that, even moving it in and out of the garage was revealing. I can’t remember the last time I’ve “driven” a car with a proper throttle pedal, as in a cable going to the throttle body and not fly-by-wire. I can tell this because there was this thing called throttle response, not the totally dead and delayed fakery that’s the norm these days. The steering was surprisingly heavy, and yet this thing is sub 1300 kg. The photos make this car look bigger than in real life, its surprisingly petite and ultra-low. Jumping in the drivers seat, you sit so close to the ground, making it feel like the car is wrapped tightly around your body.
This was my first rotary experience, even if it was limited to my driveway. The starter motor throws you because it doesn’t have that off-beat alternating whirr of a piston engine, just a smooth wind-over. I have to say, I was expecting a little more zing from the engine, but with the stock exhaust it was very tame. As mentioned, throttle response was lovely, which made balancing the clutch a doddle. From what I’m told, once the second turbo takes over, the RX-7 takes off like a scalded cat. And because of how light and low it is, this is a very responsive car to drive. I love that, especially with how bloody heavy and over-sanitized cars have become. A modern sports car might be faster, safer and more comfortable. But more fun to drive? Hmmm……………….
For its age, lack of milage and almost new condition, I dare this RX-7 would be worth quite a large sum of money. Because the owner had never really “detailed” it, he remarked that it has never looked like this. Whoever buys this car is going to get a gem, I just hope it will go to the “right” person and not completely destroyed with cannon exhausts and hideous tuner-spec wheels and body kits.
Either way, it was a massive privilege to work on this car today. I adore the carefully crafted curves, the smooth look created by the pop-up headlights, and the blacked out rear lights. And those curves serve a purpose, they were aerodynamically tuned to provide low drag and meaningful downforce. With how over styled modern cars have become, there is a refreshing simplicity to this RX-7. Then consider the era that this car came from, a time when the Japanese made uniquely flavoured vehicles that no one else could match. Cars like the RX-7 could only have come from Japan.
INTERIOR -
The interior didn’t really need much, nor did the owner request an interior detail. However, I did give it a quick vacuum and wipe down with ADS Pilot. The interior glass was in desperate need of cleaning, so I went over that with True Vue.
The only interior request was to take a look at the leather, the owner had noticed some mild discoloration appearing. I started with ColourLock Mild Leather Cleaner for the seats, it easily removed that discoloration and created a lovely uniform finish. For the steering wheel, gear knob and handbrake lever, I switched to Strong Leather Cleaner to cut through 30-years of grime.
From here, I applied Colour Leather Protector. Well, the leather virtually inhaled the protector, like a thirsty camel! That didn’t surprise me, the seats had NEVER been cleaned or conditioned in their 30-year life. The only maintenance has been a wipe down with a damp rag.
This was probably my favourite part of this detail, primarily because the leather responded so beautifully. The somewhat dry, patchy appearance transformed into a naturally soft, rich and uniform finish.
FINAL TOUCHES –
The tyres were treated to a generous layer of OG Tire Dressing, then knocked back with a towel after 15-minutes. Believe it or not, these Hankook’s replaced the factory originals. As part of the final inspection, I lightly wiped the paint down with Bead Maker for a little extra pop.
RESULTS -
White is so hard to make pop, it basically hides all of your hard work. Even so, I did make a massive improvement to how the car looks. The paint was completely lacking in gloss and felt quite "dry", well now its popping and feels ultra slick. The glass polishing played a part as well, likewise getting some dressing on the tyres.
Ready for customer pickup -
This car is remarkable for not being some over modified beast that’s been tuned to within an inch of its life. It’s stock as a rock and all the better for it. I would love to have given it a quick run around the block to see what it felt like. Having said that, even moving it in and out of the garage was revealing. I can’t remember the last time I’ve “driven” a car with a proper throttle pedal, as in a cable going to the throttle body and not fly-by-wire. I can tell this because there was this thing called throttle response, not the totally dead and delayed fakery that’s the norm these days. The steering was surprisingly heavy, and yet this thing is sub 1300 kg. The photos make this car look bigger than in real life, its surprisingly petite and ultra-low. Jumping in the drivers seat, you sit so close to the ground, making it feel like the car is wrapped tightly around your body.
This was my first rotary experience, even if it was limited to my driveway. The starter motor throws you because it doesn’t have that off-beat alternating whirr of a piston engine, just a smooth wind-over. I have to say, I was expecting a little more zing from the engine, but with the stock exhaust it was very tame. As mentioned, throttle response was lovely, which made balancing the clutch a doddle. From what I’m told, once the second turbo takes over, the RX-7 takes off like a scalded cat. And because of how light and low it is, this is a very responsive car to drive. I love that, especially with how bloody heavy and over-sanitized cars have become. A modern sports car might be faster, safer and more comfortable. But more fun to drive? Hmmm……………….
For its age, lack of milage and almost new condition, I dare this RX-7 would be worth quite a large sum of money. Because the owner had never really “detailed” it, he remarked that it has never looked like this. Whoever buys this car is going to get a gem, I just hope it will go to the “right” person and not completely destroyed with cannon exhausts and hideous tuner-spec wheels and body kits.
Either way, it was a massive privilege to work on this car today. I adore the carefully crafted curves, the smooth look created by the pop-up headlights, and the blacked out rear lights. And those curves serve a purpose, they were aerodynamically tuned to provide low drag and meaningful downforce. With how over styled modern cars have become, there is a refreshing simplicity to this RX-7. Then consider the era that this car came from, a time when the Japanese made uniquely flavoured vehicles that no one else could match. Cars like the RX-7 could only have come from Japan.
Klasse Act
Well-known member
- Feb 21, 2012
- 28,434
- 3,978
Klasse Act
Well-known member
- Feb 21, 2012
- 28,434
- 3,978
Deyon...INCREDIBLE WORK, I bet he brings the FD's replacement to you, no doubt about it
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
Dirty Harry
Member
- Aug 28, 2023
- 79
- 83
Man, you brought that RX-7 to a new level! Outstanding work on a very cool car!
Eldorado2k
Well-known member
- Nov 9, 2015
- 14,655
- 832
The Mazda turned out Great.
Klasse Act
Well-known member
- Feb 21, 2012
- 28,434
- 3,978
Deyon, keep us updated on the sale, my buddy Hectour is a big Mazda fan as he's owned a 79' SA since Feb of 2013. He says THAT car, with THAT ownership, miles, stock condition and YOUR country should net HUGE bucks
️️
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️️Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
DFB
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- Aug 12, 2019
- 5,718
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- #3,074
Thanks for the feedback, it means a lot.
I have to say, I was somewhat intimidated working on such a special car, especially considering the customer was like me and very protective of his car. It bothers me that I didn't achieve a near complete correction, you know how it is. For me, I find it hard to reel in that need for complete perfection, and ultimately draw the line where to stop. I'd rather play it safe and have the car leave looking great, not damaged because of my OCD.
I actually spoke with the customer again today and was told he sat in the shed with a beer just admiring it. "It's never looked like that, even from new". At which point, I'm kinda at ease that I didn't go chasing every single scratch or swirl.
A quick online search reveals there is nothing like this example of an RX-7 currently on the market. They are either high mile examples, heavily modified, or special edition models. Prices range from about $60,000 up to $180,000 AUD. The most expensive appear to be the later 2000's build examples, the cheapest being thrashed high milers. In my opinion, he should be asking no less than $100,000 AUD, but more likely $120,000 to $140,000 given the condition and lack of modifications.
I have to say, I was somewhat intimidated working on such a special car, especially considering the customer was like me and very protective of his car. It bothers me that I didn't achieve a near complete correction, you know how it is. For me, I find it hard to reel in that need for complete perfection, and ultimately draw the line where to stop. I'd rather play it safe and have the car leave looking great, not damaged because of my OCD.
I actually spoke with the customer again today and was told he sat in the shed with a beer just admiring it. "It's never looked like that, even from new". At which point, I'm kinda at ease that I didn't go chasing every single scratch or swirl.
A quick online search reveals there is nothing like this example of an RX-7 currently on the market. They are either high mile examples, heavily modified, or special edition models. Prices range from about $60,000 up to $180,000 AUD. The most expensive appear to be the later 2000's build examples, the cheapest being thrashed high milers. In my opinion, he should be asking no less than $100,000 AUD, but more likely $120,000 to $140,000 given the condition and lack of modifications.
DFB
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- Aug 12, 2019
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Deyon...INCREDIBLE WORK, I bet he brings the FD's replacement to you, no doubt about it
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That's the thing, I don't think he will be replacing it. From what I was told, he just wants to pass it on for someone else to enjoy. He otherwise drives a current model Ranger Raptor, or one of his work vans.
Eldorado2k
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- Nov 9, 2015
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That’s exactly how I feel about this Mercury Marauder that a customer brings me around once per year. He’s got a stable of cars but this one is his favorite and with only around 16,000 miles it’s a pretty rare example of however many there are out there in the wild.
1 time in particular he came to pick it up and he actually asked me if I had polished it, which admittedly made me feel a bit uncomfortable for a second, because I actually had polished it, but I purposely didn’t strive for 100% perfect correction because the fact is when it goes home whatever method he uses to wash it obviously isn’t optimal because it has returned with some swirls 4 times now.
So I guess that particular time I went with a light 1 step polish, enough to make it pop without bearing down any harder than I needed to, looking out for the long term life of the car in its original state. I’ll make sure to talk with him about this next time he brings me that car and I’m sure he’ll agree that it’s the best way to approach it while still keeping the car looking good.
DFB
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Since release in late 2020, I've been using P&S Rag's to Riches to clean my microfiber towels. Prior to that, I was using Bowden's Microfiber Wash.
Now, I was quite happy with the Bowden's product, it worked much better than normal laundry detergent because it didn't leave a residue behind, and therefore maintained towel performance. At the time, it was also very well priced. But then I tried R2R and never looked back.
Rag's to Riches was developed in conjunction with The Rag Company........who better to decide what is needed to properly clean towels used with a variety of modern detailing chemicals. In particular, R2R was designed to break down and remove Si02 and polymer compounds that would otherwise cause poor absorbency and a lack of softness. While it was more expensive, R2R is more concentrated and requires less per load compared with alternative products.
The first thing I noticed after washing that first load of towels, R2R revived several that were on the verge of replacement. Instead, it restored softness and absorbency to almost new. That means I extended the life of each towel, in turn offsetting that additional price by not having to replace as often. Once again, I had little reason to change.
Overall, R2R is an excellent product that I happily recommend. The thing is, R2R is now significantly more than competitor products. I've also noticed (and tolerated) the lumpy consistency that forms at the bottom of the bottle. P&S say that is normal and not detrimental to performance, but there is no denying the jankiness on that count. I also like to explore different options rather than doggedly sticking to one brand or product, mainly because there might be something that does it's job better out there, something more efficient, something better value.
And so I've decided to give 3D Towel Kleen a try. Most detailing companies have a towel detergent. I initially looked at Carpro MFX, but was then led to this 3D product. Funnily enough, P&S and 3D are now both owned by the same parent company. It's the price that got my attention.
P&S Rags to Riches 3.78-litre (gallon) - $101.70
3D Towel Clean 3.78-litre (gallon) - $60.49
Carpro MFX 4-litre - $75.95
Bowden's Microfiber Wash 5-litre - $84.99
Now, I get those products a little cheaper, but the overall price differences remain the same. The alternatives to R2R are between $16.71 to $41.20 cheaper. After asking around, someone suggested Towel Kleen offered excellent performance, so ultimately that's the direction I took.
I normally recommend buying a small bottle of something before committing to a gallon, I've been bitten in the past by ignoring that advice. However, 3D don't offer Towel Kleen in a smaller bottle, only the 3.78 and 18.9-litre drums. It also means using a secondary bottle to make dosing easier.
https://www.amazon.com.au/AcbbMNS-Twin-Bottles-Chamber-Chemical/dp/B0C1RJWNT1?th=1
Will that cheaper price mean a lower level of performance? Well, I guess I'll find out soon enough.
Now, I was quite happy with the Bowden's product, it worked much better than normal laundry detergent because it didn't leave a residue behind, and therefore maintained towel performance. At the time, it was also very well priced. But then I tried R2R and never looked back.
Rag's to Riches was developed in conjunction with The Rag Company........who better to decide what is needed to properly clean towels used with a variety of modern detailing chemicals. In particular, R2R was designed to break down and remove Si02 and polymer compounds that would otherwise cause poor absorbency and a lack of softness. While it was more expensive, R2R is more concentrated and requires less per load compared with alternative products.
The first thing I noticed after washing that first load of towels, R2R revived several that were on the verge of replacement. Instead, it restored softness and absorbency to almost new. That means I extended the life of each towel, in turn offsetting that additional price by not having to replace as often. Once again, I had little reason to change.
Overall, R2R is an excellent product that I happily recommend. The thing is, R2R is now significantly more than competitor products. I've also noticed (and tolerated) the lumpy consistency that forms at the bottom of the bottle. P&S say that is normal and not detrimental to performance, but there is no denying the jankiness on that count. I also like to explore different options rather than doggedly sticking to one brand or product, mainly because there might be something that does it's job better out there, something more efficient, something better value.
And so I've decided to give 3D Towel Kleen a try. Most detailing companies have a towel detergent. I initially looked at Carpro MFX, but was then led to this 3D product. Funnily enough, P&S and 3D are now both owned by the same parent company. It's the price that got my attention.
P&S Rags to Riches 3.78-litre (gallon) - $101.70
3D Towel Clean 3.78-litre (gallon) - $60.49
Carpro MFX 4-litre - $75.95
Bowden's Microfiber Wash 5-litre - $84.99
Now, I get those products a little cheaper, but the overall price differences remain the same. The alternatives to R2R are between $16.71 to $41.20 cheaper. After asking around, someone suggested Towel Kleen offered excellent performance, so ultimately that's the direction I took.
I normally recommend buying a small bottle of something before committing to a gallon, I've been bitten in the past by ignoring that advice. However, 3D don't offer Towel Kleen in a smaller bottle, only the 3.78 and 18.9-litre drums. It also means using a secondary bottle to make dosing easier.
https://www.amazon.com.au/AcbbMNS-Twin-Bottles-Chamber-Chemical/dp/B0C1RJWNT1?th=1
Will that cheaper price mean a lower level of performance? Well, I guess I'll find out soon enough.
DFB
Well-known member
- Aug 12, 2019
- 5,718
- 4,800
- Thread starter
- #3,078
That’s exactly how I feel about this Mercury Marauder that a customer brings me around once per year. He’s got a stable of cars but this one is his favorite and with only around 16,000 miles it’s a pretty rare example of however many there are out there in the wild.
1 time in particular he came to pick it up and he actually asked me if I had polished it, which admittedly made me feel a bit uncomfortable for a second, because I actually had polished it, but I purposely didn’t strive for 100% perfect correction because the fact is when it goes home whatever method he uses to wash it obviously isn’t optimal because it has returned with some swirls 4 times now.
So I guess that particular time I went with a light 1 step polish, enough to make it pop without bearing down any harder than I needed to, looking out for the long term life of the car in its original state. I’ll make sure to talk with him about this next time he brings me that car and I’m sure he’ll agree that it’s the best way to approach it while still keeping the car looking good.
Not that I'm an expert on those particular vehicles, but it's nice to see a Marauder in a colour other than black. It looks kinda like a colour Ford Australia used on the Falcon in the late 90's and early 2000's called Regency Red.