DFB's Garage

Chasing perfection could've been bad, i.e. getting through 20+ year old paint, it's sidt Japanese car paint AND older

The owner saying what he said was as good as a tip, plus I bet that Ranger RAPTOR comes in for a detail🤌🤌

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Chasing perfection could've been bad, i.e. getting through 20+ year old paint, it's sidt Japanese car paint AND older

The owner saying what he said was as good as a tip, plus I bet that Ranger RAPTOR comes in for a detail🤌🤌

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I'd like to see that but probably a little long to fit in Deyon garage with the other cars. (I may be wrong)
 
This is what a cool change and shower of rain created the other day..............







This was a good chance to put Optimum Touchless Decon Soap to test. I've used this a few times now, but not on a vehicle this dirty. Considering it was just dusty water spots, I assumed it would be a walk in the park for this soap.







It seems I underestimated this dirt. While the Touchless Decon removed most of it from the paint and glass, there was still residue left behind that ultimately the contact wash sorted, Optimum's regular car soap in this case. However, the aluminium roller tonneau has been stained by this dirt, it even resisted heavy APC. So, I'm not sure what to do about this from here. The tonneau is not coated because I was warned not to by dealer when the car was purchased.
 
It was quite windy that day, but the rain arrived at night so I'm not sure.
 
That RX7 is amazing, love everything about it. You did a great job on it, lots of care indeed.

I’d list it on Bring A Trailer. That seems to be a good place for low mileage rare cars.


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It was quite windy that day, but the rain arrived at night so I'm not sure.
That's an ash dirt combo mix blowing in from Adelaide, through Mildura.

My right eye won't stop twitching
 
Placed a decent sized order on Monday, taking advantage of a trade promotion and a Christmas gift voucher. Some of this is restocking, some new products to test. (Note, the ColourLock stuff came from a different supplier)



Carpro GofX launched at Sema last year and represents a more user-friendly glass polish, anyone who's used CeriGlass will know what I mean here. This product is along the lines of P&S Clarity Creme, which is more a deep cleaner for glass rather than a targeted scratch remover like CeriGlass. You can buy GofX on it own or in kit form as pictured. The kit includes a 150ml bottle of GofX, a microfiber towel, a glass pad and applicator handle.



I also bought a couple of Carpro's new glass cutting pads, which differ from their white Rayon glass pads. I note that these black pads are not recommended for new glass or glass in good condition, they are for targeting swirls and scratches beyond what the white rayon pads can achieve.



And I decided to try yet another headlight coating, this time the relatively new Carpro DLight. This is the marketing blurb....................

"DLight isn’t just another trim or headlight ceramic coating it’s a ceramic-grade solution developed to preserve and protect plastics from the inside out. At its core, DLight is armed with advanced UV absorbers and light stabilisers that shield against UVA and UVB rays in the 260–360nm range, including the most destructive 313nm UVB spectrum. That means better protection from yellowing, fading, and cracking - especially for headlights, PPF, and clear plastics that are prone to aging in harsh climates.

Beyond UV defence, DLight adds hydrophobicity, enhances clarity, and resists fine scratches. It goes on easy, requires minimal effort to level off, and can even serve as a top coat to extend the lifespan of your base layer. Whether you're preserving new PPF or restoring tired headlights, DLight makes it easier to keep plastics looking sharp for years."






I guess I'll find out soon enough if this is just another coating, or if it truly helps extend the time between refinishing the headlights on the Ranger. Note that my 10ml bottle didn't come with a box, just a sealed plastic pouch.
 
The Ranger's turn today, a bit of a hybrid wash was on the cards.

First, as normal I hosed out the tray. I then went around and foamed all four wheels with Optimum Touchless, then scrubbed each tyre, then rinsed. I'm not impressed with this soap, even on wheels with a healthy coating, it doesn't really do the "touchless" thing. Optimum say this is a pH neutral soap, but I pH tested it today as part of a project I'm working on. Interestingly, in both concentrate and diluted forms, it registered at a pH of 9.0. Yet another "pre-cleaning" decon soap that doesn't really do anything.

From there, I rinsed the car down, then moved back into the garage for a rinse-less wash with ADS Hero, followed by ADS Amplify. As you can see, I had a "helper".......................



From there, the door jambs and tray sides were dried with Shine Supply Punch It, glass via Hero at 128:1, Griots Interior Detailer for the inside wipe down, and finally some 1:1 Carpro Perl for the tyres.
 
The Ranger's turn today, a bit of a hybrid wash was on the cards.

First, as normal I hosed out the tray. I then went around and foamed all four wheels with Optimum Touchless, then scrubbed each tyre, then rinsed. I'm not impressed with this soap, even on wheels with a healthy coating, it doesn't really do the "touchless" thing. Optimum say this is a pH neutral soap, but I pH tested it today as part of a project I'm working on. Interestingly, in both concentrate and diluted forms, it registered at a pH of 9.0. Yet another "pre-cleaning" decon soap that doesn't really do anything.

From there, I rinsed the car down, then moved back into the garage for a rinse-less wash with ADS Hero, followed by ADS Amplify. As you can see, I had a "helper".......................



From there, the door jambs and tray sides were dried with Shine Supply Punch It, glass via Hero at 128:1, Griots Interior Detailer for the inside wipe down, and finally some 1:1 Carpro Perl for the tyres.
Calender worthy pic there Deyon

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For today's project, it was time to polish the Ranger's headlights...................again.





The above images don't fully display how bad the hazing had become, or how it was dragging down the appearance of the vehicle. In previous treatments, I simply polished the UV damaged sections, typically the horizontal edge facing the sky. This time I just went ahead and polished the entire headlight.

After taping up, I started with Sonax Cutmax on a Rupes blue wool pad, the most aggressive combination at my disposal. Machine choice was the 3-inch ShineMate EB212, and the Rupes iBrid Nano in rotary mode with a 1-inch pad for the edgework. That EB212 is absolutely brilliant for this role, primarily because it just won't stall out on what is a complex surface like a headlight.



Following the cutting stage, I switched to a ShineMate orange foam pad and Carpro Reflect to jewel them up. From there, a thorough wipe down with Eraser. There are still some imperfections, but I'm happy with the finish.

It was then time to try yet another miracle potion in an attempt to slow down the return of oxidation. The ultimate solution here would be to have PPF applied, but no one does it around here, and I just don't have the skills or patience to do it myself (which is way harder than it looks due to the multi-dimensional shape of these lights). Applying a clear coat to headlights is not recommended, mainly because you need to be a wizard painter to get a uniform finish. And if you don't get it right, you end up with a distorted light distribution.

I've tried various methods for protecting headlights, including spray sealants, ceramic paint coatings, dedicated polymer sealants, even a VERY expensive headlight coating from Opti-Coat. All but the Opti-Coat would last a few months at best. Having said that, Opti-Coat suggest 12-months protection for their solution, I got about 9-months.

Enter Carpro's new Cquartz DLight, which is a dedicated ceramic coating for plastic. Compared to other ceramic coatings, DLight offers significantly higher resistance to UV, which provides a high-level of protection for plastic surfaces and in turn will prevent fading, yellowing and cracking. Carpro put a focus on protecting headlights, but they also suggest it can be used on PPF, clear plastics, textured black plastic trim and bumpers, vinyl, and even as a top-coat to a base layer coating for ultimate protection in high-UV environments.

Carpro claims DLight can last "up to 3-years". We shall see..................

NOTE - Unless you are a professional detailer, all you need is the 10ml bottle. Also note that the 10ml size doesn't come in the pretty box, just a sealed bag.





Application method and amount vary depending on the surface being treated. For headlights, Carpro recommend two layers for ultimate durability and protection. Like any ceramic coating, prime the supplied applicator with product, then apply in crosshatch pattern to ensure full coverage. Allow to flash for about 5 minutes, then level off with a towel, followed by a final wipe with a secondary towel. Carpro suggest the product rainbows as it flashes, but I found it sweated.

After an hour, the second layer can be applied in the same manner.







The finished result certainly looks the goods. I've always loved these headlights with the black bezels, which differ from the tacky chromed out XLT and Wildtrak models.

I also went ahead and coated two replacement windscreen wiper arm trims for the XR6. I recently discovered one of these had broken, but the OEM originals are NLA. These replacements are 3D-printed using durable "high-quality ABS plastic". Coating them seemed like a logical thing to do, especially with an already used applicator with product on it.





It will be interesting to see how this coating performs going forward.
 
Did you get my PM?? Quick question if someone hits the Xr6 or the Xr8 can you even get replacement panels or are they a copy.
 
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Did you get my PM?? Quick question if someone hits the Xr6 or the Xr8 can you even get replacement panels or are they a copy.

I did and had a quick look, but they are mostly a supplier of replacement globes and bling.

You can still get OE panels from Ford dealers, and the aftermarket too.
 
I did and had a quick look, but they are mostly a supplier of replacement globes and bling.

You can still get OE panels from Ford dealers, and the aftermarket too.
Well if you ever want to swap out headlights and get new ones installed, I'd give them a go because there was plenty of pictures with them doing this. Your welcome
 
Another little refresh task on the Ranger today. This is something I've had on the to-do list for over a year now, I just kept telling myself I'd get to it when I had a moment...................you know how it is.

A black unpainted plastic deflector is mounted to the bottom of the front bumper. This part was designed to improve aerodynamic properties and deflect road debris and stones. Certain owners of these vehicles think they are smarter than the highly trained Ford engineers who designed the car, then go ahead and remove these deflectors. So, I'm not going to remove this thing for absolutely no reason at all.

Anyway, 10-years on the road and this deflector looked like it could use some enhancement. Other than regular washing, I've never touched this area of the car, I don't even dry it with a towel and drying aid. Solution Finish to the rescue....................



Prep is key with products like this. I soaked the deflector down with Green Star and agitated with one of those interior scrub pads. From there, I flushed with rinse-less wash (ONR), then two rounds of 99% IPA. With textured plastics like this, it's best to leave the material to fully dry for at least 30-minutes before applying the product. The Solution Finish is then loaded into a small foam block and worked over the plastic. After 10 to 15-minutes, level off any excess with a towel.

I absolutely love what Solution Finish does to black plastic. Yes, it can be a little messy to work with, but then its also forgiving to use and leaves a deep, dark, as-new OEM finish. The shot below doesn't fully illustrate the difference it made to this deflector.



With refreshed headlights and deflector, its given my nearly 10-year-old workhorse a nice little facelift.

You may question the point of putting this sort of effort into a daily driver. And fair enough I suppose. When I purchased my first Ranger in 2010, I never intended to be this detail-focused on what is effectively a tool-of-trade vehicle. But..............that's just not how I operate on pretty much any high value purchase I make, from tools to vehicles, phones to audio systems.



For several reasons, that "keep it looking nice" mentality flowed into my current Ranger..............

1. I didn't intend on keeping this vehicle for so long. However, Ford no longer make this low-ride model, and even if I did accept the high-rider, the replacement cost would be north of $45,000 and up to $60,000 for the engine I want. For context, I paid $30,000 on the road with a custom tray for this PX MK II. I've toyed with "upgrading" to the latest model many times over the last few years, but the sums just don't add up.

2. With that in mind, at this stage I've decided to keep it for quite a bit longer.

3. Considering both of the above, it means I want to keep it looking as good as I can for as long as I can. Hence regular washing, coatings, refreshment of aging parts ect.

4. I often use this vehicle as a product and tool testbed. Testing would happen regardless of it was new or old.

5. When it comes to product testing, there is an element of enjoyment and curiosity at play here. So those questioning the point of spending so much time and effort detailing this vehicle just don't understand this isn't "just a work car".

 
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