diamondite glass resurfacing creme and LC glass polishing pad - what to do with it all?

builthatch

builthatch

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i've had this bottle and pad for a couple years and i have yet to use either. the creme has grit in it, as a good glass polish should. is it too harsh for glass water spots?

the pad, well, it's a very strange composition. it's dense and sparkles...for real.

i've searched the heck out of this forum and found that people were using M04 and a rotary for a while, maybe still are, for water spots and killing it.

i've read about the DP glass polish, again, for water spots. but some people said it wasn't aggressive enough.

so, anyone use the diamondite creme with success for water spots and if so, with what?

what about this funky LC glass pad i have???

i have the following at my disposal:

PC with every 5.5/3" pad color available (yellow up to red), no wool/foamed wool
9227c with plates for the above pads

which reminds me: can i use any of the pads and tools i have with optimum compound to get rid of the spots without micro marring the glass?

thanks.
 
I've had good success using M105 on an orange 5.5 inch CCS pad to remove water spots:

before


after (pardon the dust)
 
Here's the description of that pad: Lake Country 5.5 Inch Glass Polishing Pad

I used that creme with the thin white hard pad on my Flex rotary to take scratches out of my friend Jr's windshield. I believe I tried the yellow foam glass pad on my PC or Flex 3401 before I resorted to the rotary...but I'd think it'd work pretty well on the water spots. It's a little confusing if the abrasives are built into the pad...why you need to use a polish at all...anyway....
 
I used the DP Glass Restorer on my badly waterspotted mirrors and it worked wonders. I just applied it with a terry cloth towel and minimal pressure.

before:
Before.jpg
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after:
After.jpg
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builthatch said:
i've had this bottle and pad for a couple years and i have yet to use either. the creme has grit in it, as a good glass polish should. is it too harsh for glass water spots?
Click to expand...

The answer is "no" but the caveat is how you apply a product is a factor, as long as you apply using something that also won't scratch glass then neither product is going to scratch the glass.

builthatch said:
the pad, well, it's a very strange composition. it's dense and sparkles...for real.
Click to expand...

The pads do work with the creme to remove scratches of glass when used with a rotary buffer, it's a little messy but it does work and it will or at least should remove water spots also.

This gets back to the type of water spots we're dealing with. The spots on your glass are Type I, that is they are a deposit on the surface.

So often people think their car paint has Type I when in reality they have Type II, that is the spot is actually an etching "in" the paint and that means you'll need to abrade the paint, not simply clay it or use vinegar on it.

Since glass is pretty much impervious to chemical attack the spots are almost always topical, or Type I Water Spots.


built hatch said:
i've searched the heck out of this forum and found that people were using M04 and a rotary for a while, maybe still are, for water spots and killing it.
Click to expand...

That all comes from me and posts on MOL and I've explained this for more than a decade now... M04 uses a macroscopic diminishing abrasive, it's the "chunkiness" that works to remove Type I water spots off glass and the type of diminishing abrasive used in the M04 doesn't scratch glass.

Background: Lived in Oregon most of my life, it rains a lot in Oregon, as a detailer you cannot restore the shine to the paint but leave the glass covered with water spots, since I always had M04 with me I found that it worked well by hand or with a rotary to remove water spots off glass without scratching.

Other products can and will but in my experience not as well as a chunky product. M105 has abrasives but they are microscopic in size, does it work? Sure but so would spit and a terry cloth towel with enough elbow grease. It's the chunky factor that is responsible for the actual abrading off of the bonded minerals and built-up road grime. There's a thread about all this on MOL that goes into absolute depth on the issue. It's in Hot Topics I believe.


builthatch said:
i've read about the DP glass polish, again, for water spots. but some people said it wasn't aggressive enough.
Click to expand...

I've only used it once for water spots and it did work, but application material and process are aways factors as it relates to how aggressive a product is or isn't.

builthatch said:
what about this funky LC glass pad i have???
Click to expand...

Seems to work well for removing scratches in the glass when used with a rotary buffer.

builthatch said:
i have the following at my disposal:

PC with every 5.5/3" pad color available (yellow up to red), no wool/foamed wool

9227c with plates for the above pads
Click to expand...

Wool pads work best for removing water spots off glass with some type of compound or glass polish. An aggressive foam cutting pad can work depending upon the polish. Might have to experiment or do a test spot.


builthatch said:
which reminds me: can i use any of the pads and tools i have with optimum compound to get rid of the spots without micro marring the glass?

thanks.
Click to expand...

I always recommend doing a test spot to an inconspicuous area first, don't just try any product pad combo out right where the driver looks through the windshield.


:)
 
Setec Astronomy said:
It's a little confusing if the abrasives are built into the pad...why you need to use a polish at all...anyway....
Click to expand...

exactly. i got it originally because of that unusual feature, but i've yet to use it for that very reason.

mike, thanks a ton for your detailed answers. i'll play around and see what's doin'. this is the exact reason why i hate collecting stuff because i'm a creature of habit- when i find something that works i stick with it until they don't make it anymore, and using new stuff isn't in my DNA. but i'll try these items.
 
use some time of window cleaner or just soapy water or just water with a razor blade, i use it for when i tint windows to get a clean surface and takes out water spots with ease
 
MID said:
use some time of window cleaner or just soapy water or just water with a razor blade, i use it for when i tint windows to get a clean surface and takes out water spots with ease
Click to expand...
It might be easy on interior spots, unless you tint windows from the outside.
 
I too have had that glass pad for a couple years and never used it. I was scared of it I think. LOL

I used an orange pad with M105 on my two year old car's windshield and it only took out about 60-70% of the spots. This was after using Menz intensive polish first. Not sure if that makes them type 1 or 2.

Next time I'm going to use some DP glass polish I just got, and maybe I'll break out that crazy glass pad too.

Is the DP polish a step down from Megs 105 though?



.
 
Silverstone said:
Is the DP polish a step down from Megs 105 though?
Click to expand...


I think you're comparing apples to oranges... M105 is an aggressive cutting compound for automotive paints. It uses Super Microscopic Abrasive Technology for it's abrasive cutting action. Some people use it successfully for polishing glass. It is NOT a chunky feeling abrasive product. See the word microscopic in what I wrote above.

Detailer's Pride High Performance Glass Restore is a product for restoring glass surfaces, not a compound for automotive paints.

The page here does not mention the type of abrasives used but it does state that it won't scratch glass so it's probably a type of diminishing abrasive...

DP High Performance Glass Restorer


:)
 
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