Difference between MarkIII & ES Lines

luckydawg

luckydawg

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There is about $130 or so difference between the two- both seem to have VERY similar specs
What am I missing - failing to see the difference- it has to be something that I have just overlooked
 
Here's my simple answer....


The latest version, the Mark III is a very refined version of the original and even the Mark II.

The tool is able to use the power/electricity fed to it dramatically more efficiently and this shows up to you as better pad rotation through all speeds and less pad stalling.


If it were me and I was going to purchase a RUPES BigFoot? I would ONLY purchase the Mark III versions.


But if I were going to purchase a RUPES tool it would be the gear-driven Mille. Zero pad stalling. And get LOTS of the new CP pads. They work great on any freaking tool.


:buffing:
 
FWIW


Review: RUPES Mark III BigFoot 21 Polisher by Mike Phillips


RUPES BigFoot LHR21 MARK III Random Orbital Polisher


aMark_3_046.JPG








:)
 
Thanks for chiming in Mike- I am thinking about buying one & I had thought about the millie but I already have a flex 3401 and have heard some negative things about the millie
 
luckydawg said:
Thanks for chiming in Mike- I am thinking about buying one & I had thought about the millie but I already have a flex 3401 and have heard some negative things about the millie
Click to expand...


If you already have the BEAST then a quality long stroke would be a great addition for anytime you want to do finish polishing for larger, flatter panels.

I don't do much correction work with any free spinning tool, maybe the Porter Cable or the G9, most of it will be with gear-driven. That said, I think a long stroke, as in 15mm and especially 21mm free spinning will finish out nicer and more consistently on a wider spectrum of paint systems than any gear-driven.

Don't let anyone read this wrong - you can certainly finish out with gear-driven all the time. But for softer or finicky paints, any free spinning random orbital can and will tend to finish better than any gear-driven tool.

Thus a good reason to have more than one tool in your tool arsenal.


One thing for sure, the RUPES BigFoot 21 Mark III is super smooth when using the right pad and product. A real pleasure to finish out with.




:)
 
I hope others chime in with their opinions and experience, I don't want to be the only input you get.


I would highly recommend the new RUPES CP pads. I mostly use the yellow and white, I'm still not sold on the new blue foam formula. At this point in time, if I want foam cutting I'm going with LC Hybrid ORANGE foam cutting pads.



:)
 
I concur with Mike regarding a forced oscillation tool vs. a long throw tool. I prefer to do all the heaving lifting with the forced oscillation tool and finish out with a long throw as well. Forced Oscillation tool best match my buffing style when it comes to compounding and speed. It is a bit more taxing to use but it gives me much more flexibility (being able to varies on angle of approach and pressure) on a panel without constantly having to monitor the pad rotations. To me...Finishing down with a long throw is like driving on cruise control. Just point to where you want to go and you will get there. After hours of compounding, finishing with a long throw tool feels like a "warm down".

Another point of note.... its nice to have both tools since some paint systems dont like the action of a particular tool. I ran into this on numerous occasions.
 
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