Diluting Klasse HGSG for spray sealant?

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jbgrant

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I have a liter of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze arriving tomorrow with 26lbs of other stuff from AG (hurray for free shipping!) and want to know what (and how) forum members are diluting this stuff for other modes of application?

So googling and forum searching leaves me to believe that this stuff is water-based and that makes in a very flexible yet finicky sealant. Multiple members modify the directions by using a panel by panel WOWO approach which apparently doesn't compromise the sealants integrity and saves loads of time and work. Some let it sit hazy on their finish for 12-24 hours for the best cure and the easiest removal. Others take this further and dilute it 1:4, 1:5, or 1:10 and use it as a spray sealant. And of course those that use it as directed suggest using a very small amount, which I believe is true of any sealant. Does anybody use diluted klasse HGSG as a primary tool in their detailing arsenal?

I will be using it as a stand-alone sealant as I prefer dedicated polishing compounds and protection to AIOs, but I recognize their potential value. What have those experienced with klasse HGSG found is a great top coat to add depth to the sealant? (I will be trying pinnacle liquid souveran wax, CG wet mirror finish, etc.).

Does klasse hgsg stain plastic trim or rubber?


Thank you!
 
I dilute 1:1 to use as a spray sealant. Spray on and buff until it is totally gone. It cures in 30-40 minutes so you can retop with another layer after that. Its as easy to use as a QD. I dont top KSG with anything as it detracts from the looks it gives.
 
Hey Guys,

I'm just throwing my 2 cents in here..

Are you talking about Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze?

Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, klasse SG sealant, klasse sealant glase,klasse sealant

I've never heard of thinning or diluting it and as far as layering the web-page says the following:

• MULTIPLE COATS will increase the clarity of the reflective shine, and deepen the overall mirror like finish.

• DAMPEN YOUR MICROFIBER PAD with a quick detailer, such as Wolfgang Instant Detail Spritz or DP Final Gloss. Then apply a dime-sized amount of Klasse onto the pad. Wipe in long, layered strokes and use just a little pressure; it won’t hinder the results. Let the sealant remain on the entire surface area of your vehicle until it is absolutely dry before you buff your car. Mist the surface with quick detail spray if it resists buffing.

• WAIT 8-12 HOURS BEFORE LAYERING additional coats of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze or any other product. I recommend you let your car sit overnight and then reapply in the morning or afternoon.
 
Lasthope05 said:
I dilute 1:1 to use as a spray sealant. Spray on and buff until it is totally gone. It cures in 30-40 minutes so you can retop with another layer after that. Its as easy to use as a QD. I dont top KSG with anything as it detracts from the looks it gives.
Click to expand...

The description in AG store says to let it cure 8-12 hours before layering it. Is that because it is at full strength? Does it cure in 30 mins because it has been diluted?
It sounds like good stuff, how do you like it?
 
S2K said:
The description in AG store says to let it cure 8-12 hours before layering it. Is that because it is at full strength? Does it cure in 30 mins because it has been diluted?
It sounds like good stuff, how do you like it?
Click to expand...

The 8-12 hour cure time is for sealants in general as they are made of polymers that need sufficient time to cross link and bond to the paint. Water based acrylic sealants like Klasse are different in that there are no polymers in it to cross link. Once the carrier solvent(water) has evaporated the acrylic instantly bonds to the paint. That is why if you apply to much it is incredibly hard to remove the haze.

Acrylic sealants are very durable and produce a very bright and glossy finish which look great on lighter color cars. I used Klasse for several years until I made the switch to Jeff Werkstatt' line up which is an updated version of Klasse.
 
Lasthope05 said:
I used Klasse for several years until I made the switch to Jeff Werkstatt' line up which is an updated version of Klasse.
Click to expand...

That's interesting Alan, what Jeff Werkstatt product would be comparable to Klasse All In One and Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze?
 
Klasse All-in-one = Jeff werkstat Prime
Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze = Jeff Werkstat Acrylic Jett

What I like about the JW products is their newer updated versions. In JW prime for instance they also have Prime Acrylic which has more sealant in it for a more durable finish, Prime Carnauba that is wax based instead of acrylic, and Prime strong which is regular prime on steriods with 20% more cleaners and acrylic sealant.

Also In addition to JW Acrylic Jett, they have Acrylic Jett Trigger(AJT) which is the outrageously easy to use spray version.
 
Can you guys comment on how it acts on unpainted trim or rubber?

Thanks,

Joel
 
It protects trim just like it does paint but it does not restore nor stain it. It also works great on glass. If you have Klasse all in one use it on the rubber trim too.
 
S2K said:
The description in AG store says to let it cure 8-12 hours before layering it. Is that because it is at full strength? Does it cure in 30 mins because it has been diluted?
It sounds like good stuff, how do you like it?
Click to expand...


I never diluted it but three layers of KSG looks like glass! (gotta have that third layer IMO)

And yeah it dresses/seals rubber window trim nicely. Although I hit it with 303 first, and then the KSG seals it in. :xyxthumbs:
 
Silverstone said:
I never diluted it but three layers of KSG looks like glass! (gotta have that third layer IMO)

And yeah it dresses/seals rubber window trim nicely. Although I hit it with 303 first, and then the KSG seals it in. :xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

Do you ever cheat on the cure time (like Lasthope) when applying three coats, or do you give it 8-12 hours between coats?
 
KSG is rather thin on its own, you can just add it to a sprayer and use undiliuted. Best way IMO ...
 
Yep, agree. I followed Mr. Killrwheels method he posted in another thread and just put it in a small 2 oz spray bottle and lightly sprayed one panel at a time and wipe on with one MF and buff off with another and it works fantastic. Think this might be one of the best tips I've come across. Beading is like crazy with KSG too, love that stuff. //bluegoose//
 
Very happy to hear this stuff doesn't make a mess of trim like many sealants.

First I'm going to try the undiluted spray method using a fairly non-absorbent applicator and do one panel at a time buffing off the product before moving on. Then I will try a 1:1 dilution and see how that changes things. Next I will try using it traditionally as direction suggest. Finally I will try a 1:5 dilution as a quick WOWO sealant and gauge the results. Will let you guys know what I think Saturday.

Thanks for the great input. Keep the opinions coming!

Joel
 
jbgrant said:
Very happy to hear this stuff doesn't make a mess of trim like many sealants.

First I'm going to try the undiluted spray method using a fairly non-absorbent applicator and do one panel at a time buffing off the product before moving on. Then I will try a 1:1 dilution and see how that changes things. Next I will try using it traditionally as direction suggest. Finally I will try a 1:5 dilution as a quick WOWO sealant and gage the results. Will let you guys know what I think Saturday.

Thanks for the great input. Keep the opinions coming!

Joel
Click to expand...

Joel,

I like the test plan, looking forward to hearing your thoughts and seeing the results...:props:
 
Anybody else use water to help remove the KSG residue? a spray or two per panel of distilled water on the hazed Klasse SG wiped with a microfiber and you will never consider it to be finicky again! :dblthumb2:
 
Just use some more SG to get the residue off, then you don't have to worry about washing it off before it's fully cross-linked.
 
Upon receiving my Klasse HGSG today I was surprised to read right on the bottle that it "contains no water" which suggests it's in a pure hydro-carbon solvent carrier and perhaps not compatible with H20..? (any chemists opinions?). Seems like something formulated with zero water is very possibly not going to like water? Interestingly is does not have that typical petro-solvent volatile odor at all, almost odorless in fact. I will experiment this weekend.
 
Use it undiluted on one panel let haze for about an hour and remove.If you have any problems then go forward with the other methods mentioned.I have used it undiluted several times and never had a problem with removal.I would clay first though because i think that helps with removal as the surface is clean.
 
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