Do black cars really need products specific for black paint?

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Silvaria

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It seems to me that the clear coat negates a "need" for products that are supposedly designed for specific paint colors, but I am VERY new to this and I could be wrong.
 
Glazes and waxes marketed for black cars are generally those that have certain oils meant to bring out the depth of black, rather than make it super shiny which may not be everyone’s favorite look on black. Even with a clear coat, how your finish looks is partially dependent on how light reflects off of it and this is where the oils can slightly alter that look.

With the above being said, there is no functional or health reasons why black waxes are better for the paint. Black waxes can look great on light colors; non-black marketed glazes and waxes can look great on black. I wouldn’t worry about narrowing down to a black marketed product unless it interests you to try it. I have many black waxes and many non-color charged waxes and I reach for any of them for any color.
 
No. Black shows everything but same happens on all paint colors. If you can perfect black paint, you can perfect all!
 
Getting black paint perfect is like having a “black belt” in detailing! :-)
 
In my experience I have found some products appear better on my black DD as far as LSP's.

Having said that I have found other products that look better on white, silver, red, blue etc. again, regarding waxes, sealants and coatings.

The differences are slight but a discerning eye can see these slight differences. The key for all paints is in the cut, buff, polish and jewelling to perfect perfectly flat paint. That's 95% of the look and reflection. The LSP chosen is the remaining 1%-5%.

The products used for correcting i.e. compounds and polishes are paint characteristic specific, not color specific.
 
Paul A. said:
In my experience I have found some products appear better on my black DD as far as LSP's.
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I think this may be the case, 'color-specific' product or not. Have had 3 different coatings on my black daily driver since 2017, each had a slightly different 'look' to it. First one had a kinda 'thick', molten gloss look to it, Second had better depth, a bit less sharpness & 'reflectivity' but a warmer glow to it and the latest on is *very* reflective. The latest coating *looks* cleaner from 5 ft away than the other 2 did when I haven't washed it in a while although up close it is still somewhat 'dirty', a relative term in the eyes of an OCD-ish person.

I'd say that to the average person who watched the 3 over that time, they would say the 3rd coating 'keeps the car cleanest for the longest period of time between washes' even though the dirt accumulation is likely equal among the 3 given similar circumstances.

It's almost like the increased sharpness and reflective nature of the 3rd coating visually 'burns' through any light dirt on the surface.
 
Silvaria said:
It seems to me that the clear coat negates
a "need" for products that are supposedly
designed for specific paint colors,

but I am VERY new to this
and I could be wrong.
Click to expand...
Because I’ve always found it nigh to im-
possible to change-up/dye the ’color’ of
ClearCoat paint that’s been sprayed, and
subsequently cured, in the OEMs’ factory
(or other OEM approved) paint kitchens:

I’m going to state that, IMO:
No, you are not wrong in your
above “negates-assessment”.



Bob
 
Silvaria said:
It seems to me that the clear coat negates a "need" for products that are supposedly designed for specific paint colors, but I am VERY new to this and I could be wrong.
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But what about the 'tinted clearcoats' or is that just mfg justification for charging higher amounts for those 'special' paint colors?
 
Despite clearcoat being clear, the end optical appearance of light reflecting off/absorbing in the color coat in different ways is what some the LSPs do different than others.
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
But what about the 'tinted clearcoats'
Click to expand...
I personally believe that I had
already covered that scenario.


However, if you believe it’s necessary,
please feel free to add the letter “s”
to the word ’color’, found in the below
posting, for furtherance of clarification.


TO WIT:

FUNX650 said:
....I’ve always found it nigh to im-
possible to change-up/dye the ’color(s)’ of
ClearCoat paints that’s been sprayed, and
subsequently cured, in the OEMs’ factory
(or other OEM approved) paint kitchens:
Click to expand...


Bob
 
IMO NO! I have a Black ride and I know my ride has a Clear Coat that protects my Black Paint. That being said, I use Polish Angel Centurion Liquid wax and that is "designed" for a black car. But I also use Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax and Vic's Red Paste wax. They are designed for all color cars. Again, you are protecting the clear coat after you compound/polish/prep.

It's just another marketing ploy IMO. I know I use Centurion! LOL
 
I appreciate the replies and advice, I've never heard of "black soap" so I'll have to do some research on that.

I ended up purchasing Meguiar's M20508 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish because it is my understanding that it is less harsh and I don't think my car's paint needs that much work, with only 6600 miles. Also, it is apparently better to start with less and move to more if needed.

I also bought Turtle Wax ICE Spray Wax for some coverage until I have the time to go over the entire car with a good paste or liquid wax.

It's going to be hard work until I can get a machine to help but I'm extremely dedicated to keeping my car looking beautiful! :)
 
My personal sample set is quantity 1: Turtle Wax Jet Black Spray Detailer. Note there is no "ICE" in the title. I think I posted this somewhere already, but it was like cleaning with pruning sealer. Terrible, awful product that I threw away right away.
 
bofh said:
My personal sample set is quantity 1: Turtle Wax Jet Black Spray Detailer. Note there is no "ICE" in the title. I think I posted this somewhere already, but it was like cleaning with pruning sealer. Terrible, awful product that I threw away right away.
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Noted, thank you!
 
Silvaria said:
I appreciate the replies and advice, I've never heard of "black soap" so I'll have to do some research on that.

I ended up purchasing Meguiar's M20508 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish because it is my understanding that it is less harsh and I don't think my car's paint needs that much work, with only 6600 miles. Also, it is apparently better to start with less and move to more if needed.

I also bought Turtle Wax ICE Spray Wax for some coverage until I have the time to go over the entire car with a good paste or liquid wax.

It's going to be hard work until I can get a machine to help but I'm extremely dedicated to keeping my car looking beautiful! :)
Click to expand...

“Black soap” isn’t really a thing, to my knowledge. I think it was sarcasm.

TW ICE is a solid spray wax, good choice... albeit not sold here so I’ll refrain from discussing further. M205 is a favorite to many here, and is a great starting polish. I myself started with it (actually Ultimate Polish, but basically the same).

As for good waxes/sealants/coatings (last step products or “LSPs”) for your situation... There’s so much out there so it may be hard to choose right now, but the positive is that there’s a ton of great choices. It’s almost hard to go wrong these days. So don’t fear that you may accidentally pick something “bad”. I don’t think that will happen if you follow the guidance of the new and old posts from members on this site.
 
The black paint as in polishing no no special products. But you can spot bad polishes or to aggressive combo of polish and pad easier on darker colors. There is haze or micro marring on light colors too if used with bad polishes or to aggressive combo of polish and pad but less visible.

I do think that there is different LSP that looks better on dark colors and on light colors too. Montan wax is an ingridient in 3D Speed and Blackfire Blackice Hybrid Montan Sealant Wax. That suits black color paints more than on other colors. Dodo Juice has many different waxes where you can see what kind of wax blend they use to get the most out of it on certain shades of colors. As their Blue Velvet wax it's carnuaba and dark beeswax and montan wax for the dark paints.

With sealants and ceramic coatings is a little harder to know which suits better than the other. But you get a different kind of gloss and crispy looking on these. Then it's also about what you like on just your paint. A darker deeper carnuaba glow look or a sharper high gloss. So also personal preferences comes to play. Polish Angel also does LSP for certain shades of colors. You can even get Cosmic v2 coating color coded where you send in the color code on your paint. And they make it to play as good as possible to that.
 
Every LSP you apply or layer on top of another LSP will change the way the light travels through the layers of LSP and clear coat and then back through. They will have different angles of refraction and different angles of total reflection as the light passes from one medium to another. This causes the slightly different looks with LSPs. I know we are only talking about LSPs that are few microns thick, but the visible light wavelengths are measured in billionths of a millimeter. Sometimes these factors compliment certain colors, some times they don't.
 
DBAILEY said:
Every LSP you apply or layer on top of another LSP will change the way the light travels through the layers of LSP and clear coat and then back through. They will have different angles of refraction and different angles of total reflection as the light passes from one medium to another. This causes the slightly different looks with LSPs. I know we are only talking about LSPs that are few microns thick, but the visible light wavelengths are measured in billionths of a millimeter. Sometimes these factors compliment certain colors, some times they don't.
Click to expand...
Well described, DBAILEY.
 
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