Do I need to Strip Wax before polishing

J

joe18741

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Honda CRV washed and waxed by owner by hand now owner wants me
to machine polish and wax.

My intention is to use mothers foam pad polish with an LC Blue pad
on a Flex DA.

The question is ???? do I have to strip wax off before doing machine polishing?

Thanks
Joe - New Member - still learning
 
I would strip the wax so it doesn't gunk up your pads. I use dawn (or similar soap) when washing before compounding/polishing.
 
You can also do a strong wash, like Chem Guys Citrus Wash and Clear at stripping concentration. If you're going to do that, as well as clay .... that should take care of a lot of it. As jankerson said, the polish will remove it ... but I like to have the finish as clean as possible before I start the polish process.
 
Why was claying left out as a means to:
"clean some wax off the paint" prior to polishing?

And since no one has asked yet:
At what stage (if any) of an LSP's expected life-cycle
will/can Dawn strip waxes, or any other LSP's?
Scott@IncrediblyDetailed said:
Any product that is between you and the paint will have an effect on your pads.
Click to expand...
That would include surfactants, right?

willy_nilly.gif


Bob
 
When was the last time the vehicle was waxed? I would.......

1: Wash
2: Clay
3: Polish
4: Apply LSP

Work foward my friend. :)
 
I usually use my nanoskin wash mitt and then use menzerna top imprecation
 
FUNX725 said:
Why was claying left out as a means to:
"clean some wax off the paint" prior to polishing?

And since no one has asked yet:
At what stage (if any) of an LSP's expected life-cycle
will/can Dawn strip waxes, or any other LSP's?

That would include surfactants, right?

willy_nilly.gif


Bob
Click to expand...

I think it depends on a lot of factors.

I use 3-4 oz of soap in my foam cannon with hot water and this has removed the majority (if not all) of the LSP that is at least several weeks into it's life span.

I have no idea whether or not it would work, if you apply something like Klasse SG and try to remove it using dawn a week later.

I'm sure your wealth of knowledge in chemistry and products will come out shortly in this thread and teach me a thing or two. :dblthumb2:
 
If it only has one coat of wax I'd wash, clay and polish.
If layered then I'd see the need to strip.

Having a lot of pads is great to have, I normally use an avg. of six pads per car.
 
spiralout462 said:
When was the last time the vehicle was waxed? I would.......

1: Wash
2: Clay
3: Polish
4: Apply LSP

Work foward my friend. :)
Click to expand...

This is right. Ive figured out about how much wax is on my car - its under 5ml. That's 1 teaspoon (volume). If you think a teaspoonful of wax spread out over an entire car is going to "mess up" your polishing, you need a new polish.
 
Having been a fan of Klasse sealant glaze over the years, I can tell you that a sealant can most definitely affect a polish job.

In the case of the Klasse, I had missed a few spots claying my black Challenger, as the car's paint was in pretty good shape at my usual 6 month check. Just the forward facing and sky facing surfaces had any amount of minor embedded debris, so I went a little faster than normal over the vertical panels on the sides and back.

Well, when I got to those panels on the polishing step, the pad would slide right over the areas where there was still sealant present, best way to describe it is they didn't "bite" the same way. The polish itself also revealed where the sealant was because it wouldn't cling as well to the sealant compared to the bare paint, and this effect was very noticeable on the black paint. I dug in and buffed those areas a little more aggressively to get through the sealant, and the end result was a layer of residue on the very top of the pad that basically rendered its cutting power useless. It's also more stubborn to clean off than the standard "polish plaque" that builds up on the pad.
 
aim4squirrels said:
Having been a fan of Klasse sealant glaze over the years, I can tell you that a sealant can most definitely affect a polish job.

In the case of the Klasse, I had missed a few spots claying my black Challenger, as the car's paint was in pretty good shape at my usual 6 month check. Just the forward facing and sky facing surfaces had any amount of minor embedded debris, so I went a little faster than normal over the vertical panels on the sides and back.

Well, when I got to those panels on the polishing step, the pad would slide right over the areas where there was still sealant present, best way to describe it is they didn't "bite" the same way. The polish itself also revealed where the sealant was because it wouldn't cling as well to the sealant compared to the bare paint, and this effect was very noticeable on the black paint. I dug in and buffed those areas a little more aggressively to get through the sealant, and the end result was a layer of residue on the very top of the pad that basically rendered its cutting power useless. It's also more stubborn to clean off than the standard "polish plaque" that builds up on the pad.
Click to expand...

What polish were you using? It's hard to imagine a polish with even mild abrasives not making quick work of an LSP.
 
Megs UP. My guess is the heavy oils played a part in it.

It did cut through, just gummed up the pad in doing so.
 
Gum up your pads. Lol
How much wax do think is actually on the paint?
Just Polish it!

Sent while I was Detailing or something related to detailing ;) or...
 
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