Do you use different pads for different color vehicles?

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pittpens24

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Say you were detailing a light colored vehicle and you went with the following using the LC hexlogic chart:
Orange - compound
White - polish
Black - sealer/wax

Would there be a need to change it up for a black vehicle to get a better finish?
Orange - compound
White - polish
Green - glaze
Blue - sealant
Black - wax

My thought behind this is I am a woodworker and when sanding you start course and progress to finest and DO NOT skip grits. Been out of the detailing scene for a while and with all the pads and products out there now, it is mindblowing!
 
•Regardless the paint system (SS;
BC/CC): You’re only working on the
top-coat of paint-film.

•Buffing pads are fabricated to abrade
paint in a prescribed manner.


With that in mind:
-I never saw the need to use different pads
for different top-coat paint-film colors of SS
paint systems.

-That’s even more true with BC/CC paint
systems as you’re only dealing with the
CC paint film, which by self-definition, is
considered to be “un-colored”—i.e.: clear.
(“Tinted” clears contain a complementary,
role-playing ‘color’.)


•Bottom line:
-The best method, IMO, to find out which
pads are needed to perform the entire buffing
process—from the beginning to the end—still
remains the proverbial “Test Spot”.



Bob
 
No.

I match the cut or the lack of cut of the pad to the condition of the paint.

Colors are primarily a method of differentiating one pad from another.


Don't use hex logic pads either. We don't sell them on the AG store but if we did I still wouldn't use them.

Flat pads are the best option. Anytime you introduce a "design" to the face of the pad you introduce the potential for a problem.

KISS - Keep it Simple Simon


:)
 
I let the paint be my guid rather than it's color.

On hard German paint I can go with a mild compound an a medium pad and get it LSP ready in one step. On soft paint I can do all the correction I need with a finishing polish and a medium pad. For harder to correct areas I'll either increase the agressiveness of the pad or the polishing product, but will almost always have to then go back to the lighter polish and pad to even things out.
 
Mike Phillips said:
No.

I match the cut or the lack of cut of the pad to the condition of the paint.

Colors are primarily a method of differentiating one pad from another.


Don't use hex logic pads either. We don't sell them on the AG store but if we did I still wouldn't use them.

Flat pads are the best option. Anytime you introduce a "design" to the face of the pad you introduce the potential for a problem.

KISS - Keep it Simple Simon


:)
Click to expand...
Sorry I meant to say LC ccs smart pads which I bought here at AG. Stay away from these as well because of the indents?

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk
 
The abrasive technology has come a long way the last years. So what I think you where wondering about if you should use every step of the polishes from where you get the deeper defects leveled to the last finishing polish step. Say you would need to be compounding with a pretty aggressive combo of compound and pad. It's now able to leave a finish that you mostly only need a finishing polish and polishing pad to get the last most even finish you can get. Say that you where haveing a show car and want to get that last of gloss you can jeweling the paint with a finishing pad and a very low cut and finishing ability from the finishing polish. With that said it's maybe not even noticeing for the human eye to capture this. And maybe you could notice it in when the light hits the paint and on a certain angle.

And as the rest has mentioned it's no different between the paint color on the bc/cc paints. The glaze part is pretty much not used today. And that's also cause of the abrasive technology and the DA polisher. Many used the glaze to cover up holograms from the rotary polisher. With the DA polisher and the high gloss you can get the glaze may not do that much and the LSP does that little extra filling that is needed to be getting as flat paint as possible. Now this is much generally speaking and some still like to be useing a glaze where the glossenhancer and filling ability is something they like. The drawback can be a little shorter longevity from your sealant. I think that if you are dialing in the finishing polish step to a clear finish and it's cleaning up the step before if you have done that you will get a finish that you are very satisfied with.

Some like to apply a sealant and top it with an organic wax or a hybrid wax. Or if you apply a coating and use a topper on it. Also keep topping the base protection during it's lifetime is also common. You can get a slightly difference on the finish with combos of different protections and glossenhancing products. This is something you mostly will notice when experimenting on the same vehical. The most gloss comes from the polishing though and you can get a slightly increase with different LSP. And remember that you have the last product applyied cararictics on the paint. That can be degrade the finish if you have a less ability from the product you applyied last. And say you have applyied a really great sealant or coating with a high water repellent and self cleaning ability from it. And top it with a product that have a less water repellent and self cleaning ability from it. Then you have that ability on the paint. Especially when you have a coating on this is important to use products that don't leave anything behind or don't degrade the water behavior and self cleaning ability. A car soap with glossenhancers can be doing this. And it's the same with hybrid waxes and sealants.

It's hard to know what products to use. The experience from the forum members is a help to find something that you would like to go with. See what you want from the products in ease of use or longevity or any else ability you want.
 
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