Do you use your hand, balsa wood or a rubber sanding block?
- Thread starter Finemess
- Start date
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 6
Hi Finemess,
I started a dedicated thread for you for your topic!
I try to and hope to machine sand everything I can as it's easier, faster and buffing out something like the #3000 Grit Trizact sanding marks or the #4000 Grit Abralon Sanding marks is faster and easier than removing hand sanding marks any day of the week.
If i have to hand sand then I like a rubber backing pad for general purpose, a short hard block for knocking down orange peel, and these cool little water-fed sanding block made by the Wet Wedge company. I also will use the Abralon foam backed discs by themselves for tight areas and curves.
Here's an example, this is #2000 foam backed Abralon folded in half to sand the curve in the Dodge door where the Joker's teeth are as it's a pretty tight curve.
Note I was holding the camera and taking the shot while trying to hold my hand in the curve like what would be normal for that type of curve.
But air-powered DA sanding is always my first choice.
I started a dedicated thread for you for your topic!
I try to and hope to machine sand everything I can as it's easier, faster and buffing out something like the #3000 Grit Trizact sanding marks or the #4000 Grit Abralon Sanding marks is faster and easier than removing hand sanding marks any day of the week.
If i have to hand sand then I like a rubber backing pad for general purpose, a short hard block for knocking down orange peel, and these cool little water-fed sanding block made by the Wet Wedge company. I also will use the Abralon foam backed discs by themselves for tight areas and curves.
Here's an example, this is #2000 foam backed Abralon folded in half to sand the curve in the Dodge door where the Joker's teeth are as it's a pretty tight curve.
Note I was holding the camera and taking the shot while trying to hold my hand in the curve like what would be normal for that type of curve.
But air-powered DA sanding is always my first choice.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 6
What are you working on?
We-sanding is tricky, mostly around edges and body lines as you have to be careful when you cut out your sanding marks using a wool pad with a rotary buffer.
It's best to do this thing shorty after the paint has been sprayed and after discussing with the painter so he's spraying enough clear to give you some wiggle room.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 6
Be careful not to get the surface too hot, as weird as this may sound, if you get the surface/touch-up paint too hot you'll actually pull or yank the touch-up paint completely out of the rock chip or defect and be right back to where you started only now with a thinner top coat than when you started.
(Don't ask me how I know or how many times I've done this)
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: