Does a rotary really save time?

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sirwaxalot

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I have a makita and am only a weekend warrior. I Know that if I am doing some serious paint correction using a rotary only makes sense but does it make sense to use a rotary to do minor or moderate corrections? Or I guess is it worth trying to become very proficient with it or is it just as quick to grab the PC when you can do a one step or minor correction? How does it save YOU time?


Thanks guys
 
sirwaxalot said:
I have a makita and am only a weekend warrior. I Know that if I am doing some serious paint correction using a rotary only makes sense but does it make sense to use a rotary to do minor or moderate corrections? Or I guess is it worth trying to become very proficient with it or is it just as quick to grab the PC when you can do a one step or minor correction? How does it save YOU time?


Thanks guys
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I think you answered your own question ;)
 
Well, of course the answer to this changes over time as different techniques and technologies come to the fore, but there always seems to have been some difference of opinion or difference in skill levels which create different answers to this.

When I started on detailing forums many years ago, there really was only one DA (orginal PC/G100), unless you count the Cyclo, which then and now was way off the mainstream. Because there was no forced-rotation DA's, Surbufs, M105, MF pads, if you wanted to do heavy correction, there was no choice but to use a rotary. Many rotary users finished up with a DA to remove any holograms, etc. But there were some rotary users, who, either through skill or bravado, always finished with a rotary, in fact I remember one popular detailer on another forum didn't even own a DA, and used his rotary for everything. It seems to me that many at that time stated that they were able to acheive a better final gloss with a rotary than with a DA--let me put a finer point on that--they felt they were unable to get as good a finish with a DA.

Maybe people still say that but I don't remember hearing it lately. Not sure whether this helped you at all. I guess if you are really good with a rotary it's going to be faster no matter what you are doing with it.
 
Yes, a rotary is a lot quicker. I'd say I can do a car in approx. one third of the time, maybe less. It's my understanding that they produce more heat which in turn breaks down the deminishing abrasives more quickly; effectively. I'm no pro so I don't know exactly why they abrade more cc, but they do. I only use mine for moderate to severe corrections. For the one-steps, and LSP apps. I reach for my PC.
 
I'm still a noob, but with only being 2 months in with my Makita, I have no intentions of going DA shopping anytime soon. Maybe down the road when I run out of things to buy ;). Seriously though, even with my limited experience I'm able to finish a full 3 step on a black BMW with nothing left but a few RIDS.

Due to the power/speed I never go past 50% (3-setting), just not able to control it well enough yet and don't even know if it's necessary.
 
My answer will be yes. In my experience, rotary polishing not only allows me to do corrections much faster but pads also last 10 times longer. I have never had the velcro backing become separated from a pad while using a rotary polisher so the rotary polisher also saves money on pads too. There have only been a few paint systems that I absolutely needed to finish out with a DA after doing all of the major correction work with a rotary polisher.

I am one that still believes that a glossier finish can be produced with a rotary over a DA polisher in much less time. Some argue that there is a lot more clean up after polishing while using a rotary polisher but the fact is that you'll get dust from a dusty compound/polish regardless of what polisher is used. Product sling becomes less and less of an issue with experience and the right product selection. Regardless, I wash the car before applying an LSP 80% of the time anyway so cleanup is a non issue to me most of the time.

When I get a job where the customer just wants shiny and cheap and knows or cares nothing about swirls or paint defects I use my flex 3401 to achieve the results but, if there are any paint transfers on the car from the customer lightly brushing against the garage door or another car the rotary polisher comes out to spot polish them before I have at it with the 3401. Why the rotary to spot polish? Because no matter how one rationalizes things, the rotary just gets things done faster.
 
It maybe quicker to polish with a rotary, but you don't have the clean up splatter with the PC like you do with the rotary, so no taping with the PC. Also, there's the risk factor, you can burn the paint, trim, etc. with the rotary that's not a factor with the PC. Just something to think about.
 
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