Does it matter what type of garden hose I use?

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newb001

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Was thinking of getting an extra garden hose to do my non-ONR car washes (as I wash my car at my parent's house and their 1 hose is usually connected to the faucet at the far end of the house away from the driveway...), and am finding a huge range of choices.

As an example, at Sears they range from $10 to $50 for a 50ft hose (Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more).

Does it really matter as far as washing a car goes? I will only be using it to rinse the car, fill buckets, wash tires, and perhaps with an inexpensive Gilmour foam gun.

I'm inclined to just go with one of the cheapest available (providing it doesn't feel like cr-p when I see it in the store), but wasn't sure if certain hoses provide better pressure of whatnot, etc...

Thanks for any thoughts!
 
The higher the diameter on the hose is, the higher that water volume will be. Some hoses are heavier and more durable, they don't kink much and won't pop if pressure builds up. Some hoses a lightweight, they will kink easier, but they are easier to move. The fittings on the hose are important as they will determine the resistant of the hose to leaking.

It all depends on your preference for hoses, my choice is a 50 ft goodyear hose with 3/4 inch diameter. The hose is equipped with filter screens on both ends along with a quick disconnect and on/off valve. I like the set up because i get maximum water flow and pressure, also i can quickly change between a foam gun and fire nozzle without ever wasting water.
 
I think one of the worst things in life is a cheap hose that is hard and retains the coil shape after having been rolled up for a while. I spent $50 for 75 feet of hose at Ace hardware and got a decent hose. I do however see a better hose in my future. The best hose I have used to date was a Craftsman black rubber hose that had a hex shape to it. If you plan on using your hose often, spend the $50 instead of wasting the $10. Just my opinion. The well pump or the city water authority determines the water pressure unless you have an adjustable water pressure regulator installed in your home. The different hoses will not affect the pressure.
 
tuscarora dave said:
The different hoses will not affect the pressure.
Click to expand...

I beg to differ on this. If you have a change in volume going through the same size orifice you will have a change in pressure directly proportional to the volume. (insert ugly looking calculus relation here)

Laidler, Meiser and Sanctuary Physical Chemistry 4th edition pg 374

So if you take into account the volume increase by bringing the same length of hose (50 ft) from 5/8" to 3/4" you would have a volume increase from 183.9 cu in. to 264.9 cu in. This would significantly increase the water pressure, especially considering that the restriction of the hose is normally the limiting factor in water flow.
 
Pressure is increased by restricting the flow. Volume is increased by an unrestricted flow.
If you're looking to increase the AMOUNT of water to the end source you use a larger hose. If you're looking to increase PRESSURE to the end source you use a smaller diameter hose.
 
And any nozzle is going to restrict the flow. So more water trying to get through the same place, means greater pressure. Next time i'll elaborate the thought process more, sorry bout that.
 
JonMiles said:
I beg to differ on this. If you have a change in volume going through the same size orifice you will have a change in pressure directly proportional to the volume. (insert ugly looking calculus relation here)

Laidler, Meiser and Sanctuary Physical Chemistry 4th edition pg 374

So if you take into account the volume increase by bringing the same length of hose (50 ft) from 5/8" to 3/4" you would have a volume increase from 183.9 cu in. to 264.9 cu in. This would significantly increase the water pressure, especially considering that the restriction of the hose is normally the limiting factor in water flow.
Click to expand...
I stand corrected, thanks for the info.
 
Absolutely correct with uninterrupted flow. I'm with you on that. My thought process was relating to sudden restriction like the nozzle i have attached. View attachment 6988

I'm not going to argue bernoulli because he is proven correct in his principle. I was just thinking of the principle in terms of end result, not necessarily the whole system. If you get a chance, put the type of nozzle i show on your hoses and compare. The difference is there.
 
I have that nozzle, it is nice for blasting the dust and splatter out of the cracks.
 
tuscarora dave said:
I have that nozzle, it is nice for blasting the dust and splatter out of the cracks.
Click to expand...

I recommend anyone who details to have one on a quick disconnect just for that reason. Also works amazing in doorjams. Spray them down with apc before washing then blast the nastiness out with the stream nozzle. There is very little splatter if done correctly.
 
I'd be concerned that I wouldn't do it properly and end up with crud and water all over the inside of my car
 
That is when the on/off valve comes in handy. You can use it as a flow control to start slow (least aggressive) then progress until you are comfortable with the technique. If you start at the top of the hinges and work down and around the bottom of the door you can do it successfully. The key is keeping control of the angle so any overspray ends up on the ground and not in the car. The part of the jam near the doorsill takes a little getting used to and I find it helpful to start at about the door latch (a little higher depending on the shapes) then work down the side of the sill.

I have a car to work on tomorrow so i'll try to make a short video for reference.
 
I always buy the cheap hoses and regret it every time. And every time I buy those cheap hoses I say I will never do it again...
 
JonMiles said:
That is when the on/off valve comes in handy. You can use it as a flow control to start slow (least aggressive) then progress until you are comfortable with the technique. If you start at the top of the hinges and work down and around the bottom of the door you can do it successfully. The key is keeping control of the angle so any overspray ends up on the ground and not in the car. The part of the jam near the doorsill takes a little getting used to and I find it helpful to start at about the door latch (a little higher depending on the shapes) then work down the side of the sill.

I have a car to work on tomorrow so i'll try to make a short video for reference.
Click to expand...
Well I have a on/off valve - thanks for the info
 
I noticed that the control valves can reduce flow slightly since the water has to flow through a smaller opening (1/2-in diameter or less).
 
Through the years I've gone this route as well buying the cheapest I could afford, after all it's only water passing through it.

Then it kinks, the hose fittings corrode through, it freezes once and splits, the sun attacks the plastic, it never lays flat...............

Normally lasts 2 years then it's time to start over, if you haven't done so already.

Premium hoses withstand just about anything. The hose connections for the most part are solid brass and not some stamped and formed junk that wears out after a year or two.

Buy a good quality hose and buy it once.
 
I have a Goodyear rubber hose in the mid-price range that I got on sale at Sam's. It still kinks, but not as bad as the cheapo ones I had been using. Pay the extra to get solid brass couplings and get quick disconnects and shut off valves (also solid brass). You won't regret it. I use teflon tape on all the connections so they don't leak. And get a good nozzle also, the cheap ones aren't worth the aggravation.
 
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