My new car has been detailed with Blackfire Wet Diamond and Blackfire Crystal Seal. About a week after washing (BF products had been on the car for 3-4 months and haven't been reapplied,) I got caught in a little rain drizzle and figured it would be a good time to use Meguiar's LDS (in garage with not too bright lighting) as the car appeared to be quite clean and I wanted to put a nice shine on it. Car was about 95% dry when I applied the LDS with a MF cloth. As I was putting the stuff on, I noted that there was smearing which I went over with another MF cloth. Figuring that the product needed to "dry out," I did the best I could and checked back the next morning (with garage door open for better lighting.) Some areas looked great, while others showed smears/smudges, which I again wiped out with a clean MF cloth. The only things that I think I may have done wrong was that I used too much product (eg, about 5-6 sprays for the hood,) cloths weren't as clean as I thought, maybe the LSD isn't comparable with the BF products??? Certainly would appreciate some guidance here, thanks.
Doing something wrong with Meguiar's Last Detail Spray?
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UTdetailing
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The only thing that I can think of, is due to inadequate lighting you did not see all of the product on the final wipe/buff, therefore missed some.
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Eldorado2k
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Are you talking about Last Touch?
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vanev
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Last Touch Detail Spray: D155?
If so, I have used this product quite extensively all year long.
Used in every temperature and weather condition imaginable.
Used in many different dilution ratios.
Used on all types pf paint and clear coat.
Never had an issue with this product.
It is a deceptively good product.
Meaning, It takes a good 24 hours before the shine comes to life.
Initial application may present itself to be underwhelming.
Two things to consider:
- Did you use distilled water when mixing?
Meguiars detail sprays and spray waxes are very finicky, in my opinion.
Tap water will cause this product to fight you.
Only use truly clean water.
- What towels did you use?
Make sure to use quality microfiber towels of the right GSM, Nap, and Denier for the specific application you are attempting.
Watch the edges of the towel and don't let them drag.
Make sure to do a final buff, don't leave the product to dry on its own when applied.
If so, I have used this product quite extensively all year long.
Used in every temperature and weather condition imaginable.
Used in many different dilution ratios.
Used on all types pf paint and clear coat.
Never had an issue with this product.
It is a deceptively good product.
Meaning, It takes a good 24 hours before the shine comes to life.
Initial application may present itself to be underwhelming.
Two things to consider:
- Did you use distilled water when mixing?
Meguiars detail sprays and spray waxes are very finicky, in my opinion.
Tap water will cause this product to fight you.
Only use truly clean water.
- What towels did you use?
Make sure to use quality microfiber towels of the right GSM, Nap, and Denier for the specific application you are attempting.
Watch the edges of the towel and don't let them drag.
Make sure to do a final buff, don't leave the product to dry on its own when applied.
The Guz
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- Jun 17, 2013
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He got some good advice on Autopia as well.
What am I doing wrong with Meguiar`s Last Detail Spray?
I've used tap water with it and never had an issue with last touch.
What am I doing wrong with Meguiar`s Last Detail Spray?
I've used tap water with it and never had an issue with last touch.
Eldorado2k
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What different dilution ratios do you mix it at? What particular tasks or weather conditions do you see the benefits of using it diluted?
I treat it like a waterless wash and only use it straight. Lately I've been using it as a drying aid and it leaves the paint super smooth and slick afterwards.
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Eldorado2k
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I went and checked out the thread over there, and between that 1 and the recent "Dusty Car" thread, I disagree with about 90% of what's posted in those 2 threads.
"Too much product"- Not too long ago Mike Phillips posted a thread showing proper waterless wash method, he showed how you shouldn't be afraid to be liberal with the spraying of it onto the panels. I totally agree. Not to mention, for all the people who are generally against WW in favor of Rinseless Wash... What's the worst that can happen if you overuse Last Touch? It can turn into that very same thing most people prefer, a Rinseless Wash.
I don't normally use this much Last Touch, but if I did I can't imagine it would lead to horrible results. [D114 pictured here]
"I would never use a Waterless Wash or Detailer on a vehicle I cared for"- I use it all the time on my own vehicles.. I've even pretty much switched exclusively to waterless to maintaining certain customers vehicles, even black vehicles such as this. [I know there's swirls on this paint, it's been like that since before I ever met the car and a full correction isn't in the immediate plans]
I would never mess around and wash a vehicle of this quality and paint color if I was instilling swirls everytime I did it... None of us would. Point is I see nothing to be afraid of if you use proper WW technique.
...Speaking of technique.
"Fold to a new side for every wipe during a WW"- If I did that, I'd probably wind up like this next guy..
"20 microfiber towels per waterless wash"- I cannot believe some people actually use that many towels for just 1 car. It boggles the mind. Lol. I seriously use no more than 3 towels everytime I do a WW, including the drying towel. I've never used more than 4, and even 4 is rare.
There's less to fear than you actually would think. As long as you're not breaking obvious principles, it's very easy to do just 2 sides of a towel for an entire hood. [drying with a separate towel]
Look how dirty 1 of my 2 towels is once I'm done with the whole car. 2 towels that's it. And it's not a Toyota Yaris, it's a full size Cadillac Sedan.
Instill no swirls. Technique is very important though. But IMO it's actually very easy once you figure it out.
And I exclusively use Kirklands for my waterless washing! [my good towels are for removing polish and sealant].
"Prefer Last Touch as Claylube, it doesn't dry well, I like detail sprays that flash more"- Who even uses Last Touch as claylube anymore? Unless you're getting gallons for free, why would you be using LT when you should have D114 on your shelf? It doesn't dry well? Try a dry drying towel. If you refuse to do that, then use a dry waffle weave then. And if you're afraid to use a dry waffle weave then I've got nothing nice to say about you. Lol.
Detail spray "flashes"? What the heck does that even mean? I've heard of polish flashing, but I seriously never heard of waterless wash or QD flashing. No clue what that even means.
And last and least of the good advice...
"I've applied 17 coats of the same Blackfire Wax and use Meguiars Detailer to wipe down daily, and the shine Never Ever Comes Out Nice"-
I'm serious, that's a direct quote found in that thread.. Who in the world layers sealant 17 times? And uses the same quik detailer everyday even though he himself admits the results "never ever come out nice"... I'm at a loss for words. Lol.
I'm sorry for the long post, but don't listen to any of that advice because it's simply not true. I'll tell you exactly what caused the situation you described in OP:
1st, you should've sprayed Last Touch directly onto the panel, not the towel. The reason it lead to streaks is because certain contaminants such as bee pollen [those yellow dots that are on your paint] can streak if/when they're not completely removed during a wash, especially a waterless wash. Dirt/dust can also lead to streaking if/when it's not fully wiped off and allowed to sit, even if you followed it with a second towel, which is why it's important to spray as liberally as needed in order for enough product to effectively clean and do so safely without treading too close to the danger zone where you could potentially marr or swirl your paint. Dry with a separate dry towel, and if your drying towel gets too damp, then turn it into your next wiping towel and rotate a fresh dry towel. Lastly, always have enough lighting to be able to fully see what you're doing.
It really is that simple. I'd be willing to bet good money that's all that happened. Hope this helps. Good luck.
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vanev
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I have used in everywhere from RTU to 20:1
I typically stay around the 4:1 ratio with it now for most detail purposes.
When it comes to polymer based detail sprays and spray waxes, I am sure I use more product than most detailers.
I am not trying to get years worth of use out of the same bottle.
I don't find that extreme ratios advertised, such as 256:1 or 128:1, are anything more than sales gimmicks.
I still use D155 for clay lube, but a lot of products can be used for clay lube, so it depends what I am in the mood to do sometimes.
I also use D155 as a rinseless wash, but only for mildly dirt vehicles.
D155 is pretty benign as a cleaner, it does not do much for cleaning stuck on dirt , or even loose surface contaminants.
osiapstndp
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Great commentary! It sure made me laugh! I would share my opinion too, but you nailed it.
D155 is a wonderful product and performs very well. Try using the product at full strength and follow the instructions Eldorado2k mentioned. If the directions are followed and one still experiences streaks or even light holograms (maybe on paintwork with an LSP that was installed very recently) I suggest reducing the product with distilled water. I use Last Touch at a dilution ratio of 1:1, but even a mixture of 8:1 (product to distilled water) should help. Hopefully you won't have to dilute it because you will not experience the product to full effect.
Setec Astronomy
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OK I've been watching this thread and holding my tongue while people have been trying to explain away the OP's problem.
I'm sorry, I find Last Touch to be one of the greasiest, smeariest QD's I've ever used. Of course I find most QD's to be greasy/smeary, and aren't QD's obsolete, anyway? I'm fairly sure I'll never buy one again, I think waterless washes and multi-use products that can be diluted for rinseless/waterless/QD use obsoleted dedicated QD's years ago.
The only reason I still even have any QD's is I accumulated so many by belonging to The Flavor of The Month Club (and the related Why Don't I Buy a Gallon at That Lower Unit Cost Club), and that most of the time I reach for something else when I used to reach for a QD.
I'm sorry, I find Last Touch to be one of the greasiest, smeariest QD's I've ever used. Of course I find most QD's to be greasy/smeary, and aren't QD's obsolete, anyway? I'm fairly sure I'll never buy one again, I think waterless washes and multi-use products that can be diluted for rinseless/waterless/QD use obsoleted dedicated QD's years ago.
The only reason I still even have any QD's is I accumulated so many by belonging to The Flavor of The Month Club (and the related Why Don't I Buy a Gallon at That Lower Unit Cost Club), and that most of the time I reach for something else when I used to reach for a QD.
Eldorado2k
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I'm sure I use more product than less, and I think that helps out alot in being able to finish out without instilling swirls. Other than D114 [which isn't even a detail spray/waterless wash, and has never been marketed as such] I pretty much had only used D115 and it's over the counter version. I had never used any quik detailers except of course for Megs maroon bottle Quik Detailer, but that was always used as part of the Claybar Kit.
So when I 1st tried Last Touch I honestly wasn't expecting much more out of it than a post wash drying aid that hopefully added a bit of gloss and slickness, it did its job at that task. But the more I fiddled with it the more I began to get a familiar feeling, and I'm still convinced it performs spot on the same exact way D115@6:1 does, except the only small differences are D115 leaves wax behind, whereas D155 substitutes the wax part with more slickness and a hair more shine. But take away the scent and color, and I'd have a hard time telling which 1 I was using.
Which makes me surprised that you say it's not really all that capable of cleaning. Are you referring to unprotected vehicles? Or does that even include properly maintained vehicles that have been through clay and sealant/coating/etc.
I also understand that you're almost exclusively a rinseless wash/waterless person.. I would think that because of that your standards could be much different than alot of us.
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Eldorado2k
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You own a black BMW right? If you were to use Last Touch to wipe down that vehicle, what kind of towels would you normally use? And what side of the fence do you stand on, are you a dry a waterless/rinseless wash with a dry towel, or dry with a damp towel type of person?
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vanev
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First let me say that I enjoy reading your posts.
You are definitely out there in the trenches of detailing, and putting products through their paces.
Your real world experience shows and I appreciate that.
D115:
This is a product that is one of my favorites, as is/was D114.
It is also a product that I find to be finicky.
While both D114 and D115 are among my favorite detail products, when each of my respective gallons are finished, I am going to see what else is out there.
The cost of a gallon of D115 is a bit ridiculous at $80 per gallon, so that plays a factor into it.
I realize that one gallon lasts quite a long time, but as I stated earlier, I use more than the recommended amount.
Typically, I find that 1oz/32oz bottle to be the winning ratio for me, sometimes even more.
The smell is amazing, I love it, and my customers love it.
I use it also for door jams and it assists in creating a blend of interior scents along with other interior cleaners.
Have even used it on interior plastic, rubber, and trim and it worked great.
D155:
Speaking from my own experience, I just don't find any dedicated detail spray to be a good cleaner.
This includes D155, and I would even include D114 in that mix.
This has more so to do with unprotected vehicles vs protected, but see this on protected vehicles sometimes as well.
I would say that most of the vehicles I detail are worst case scenario vehicles.
More work trucks and mommy mini vans than anything else.
Even the nice vehicles are way over due for a detail, and loaded with contaminants.
Wash methods:
I would say my focus and time spent in detailing is a lot more with rinseless / waterless washes vs traditional washes.
A better way to say that would be hoseless, not necessarily waterless, though I try to go completely waterless or rinseless every chance I get.
I have spray bottles with water in them, a steamer for moisture, and have even used a 2 gallon pump sprayer for a water source.
I typically incorporate detail sprays, waterless washes, rinseless washes, and spray waxes into my details in one form or another.
These are typically used in a multi step wash process, and sometimes LSP's, but never as the first step unless it is a maintenance detail on an already detailed vehicle.
As time goes on, and my detail business grows, I have learned that incorporating a good pressure wash is the way to go when cleaning a truly dirty vehicle.
This has more to do with tires, wheels, and wheel wells than anything else.
The time factor is always at play, and a good hose or pressure wash is proving to be more time effective for first time details, and details of really dirty vehicles.
Rinseless wash and waterless wash proves more time effective for maintenance details.
All of this is just my opinion.
Eldorado2k
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@ Vanev. I'm sitting here nodding my head at everything you just said in your post.. It's very true about the difference a hose wash could make especially for the initial detail of a vehicle..
Then there's those times when even though the vehicle isn't necessarily gritty, but just leveled in dust that you find out you may take even longer to perform a waterless/rinseless simply due to your keen eye and the little nooks you know exist that could be hiding more dust.
That's exactly what happened when I thought I would breeze through this doing a waterless exterior paint + full wheels & tires with the hose and full interior + condition leather...
And you know how it is when the paint is this dusty, the glass is just a straight up mess. I use D114 and a squeegee to knock off the initial dirt from the glass, which of course drips and you know at the end of it all it took even longer to finish than if I had done a bucket wash.
Then there's times when I can waterless wash the exterior on that black car in 20min. and it looks more than fine. It's crazy. Lol.
I think our view of what we believe the customers expectations would be if We were paying someone to do the job is what drives us to overthink/overdo things sometimes. Gotta know when to say when and look at things from a big picture point of view and get our detailers OCD out of it sometimes.
Darren from Auto Fetish said it best, "the customer's paying for the results, not how hard I have to work in order to achieve them"
And thanks for the kind words, I'm humbled to hear that, as often times I worry that I talk too dang much.
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Then there's those times when even though the vehicle isn't necessarily gritty, but just leveled in dust that you find out you may take even longer to perform a waterless/rinseless simply due to your keen eye and the little nooks you know exist that could be hiding more dust.
That's exactly what happened when I thought I would breeze through this doing a waterless exterior paint + full wheels & tires with the hose and full interior + condition leather...
And you know how it is when the paint is this dusty, the glass is just a straight up mess. I use D114 and a squeegee to knock off the initial dirt from the glass, which of course drips and you know at the end of it all it took even longer to finish than if I had done a bucket wash.
Then there's times when I can waterless wash the exterior on that black car in 20min. and it looks more than fine. It's crazy. Lol.
I think our view of what we believe the customers expectations would be if We were paying someone to do the job is what drives us to overthink/overdo things sometimes. Gotta know when to say when and look at things from a big picture point of view and get our detailers OCD out of it sometimes.
Darren from Auto Fetish said it best, "the customer's paying for the results, not how hard I have to work in order to achieve them"
And thanks for the kind words, I'm humbled to hear that, as often times I worry that I talk too dang much.
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Quick detailers still have there place. I think oily type QD gives you a better gloss
Setec Astronomy
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- Aug 31, 2010
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Yeah, didn't that go out with the "I don't want to change the beading characteristics of my coating" era?
What do you mean by right GSM? I thought that was all opinion
I wouldn't know but I still use both