Drying aid vs topper?

[raysaint]

As a follow-up to my recent Cancoat prep thread, maintaining Cancoat is my confusion.

If I use an Si02 spray (diluted in a quick detailer) as a drying aid, 1) does it get to be overkill, too many layers of sealant on the ceramic base? 2) would I ever need a topper then, if the drying aid is going on every wash?

3) If I apply a Si02 topper now and then, do I need an Si02 drying aid?

Since we've had the car, I've applied Klasse HGS, then Wetcoat over that a couple times; Aquawax in a detailer as an aid. But in May hope to use Cancoat now.

 

[Desertnate]

When using something like CanCoat or other durable coatings, you don't HAVE to use anything.

I would probably use one or the other based on whatever makes you happy, but not both. Using both won't harm anything, but it could be a waste of money as you're not really gaining any additional advantage.

 

[raysaint]

When using something like CanCoat or other durable coatings, you don't HAVE to use anything.

I would probably use one or the other based on whatever makes you happy, but not both. Using both won't harm anything, but it could be a waste of money as you're not really gaining any additional advantage.

That kinda was my way of thinking, however, it seems lots of people do both. I think the drying aid is the way to go, to help the towel glide better, ensure no water spots, and lay down the little bit more Si02. Maybe once during the year a full topper to ensure durability/longevity.

 

[Desertnate]

With the more durable, high solids, coatings I've not noticed any difference in durability from adding a topper. If it is a cool, shady day and I can get the car dried without any water spots I don't even bother.

 

[BLM]

With the more durable, high solids, coatings I've not noticed any difference in durability from adding a topper. If it is a cool, shady day and I can get the car dried without any water spots I don't even bother.

With the warmer months coming on and lots of sunny/warm days coming I had a thought on this. To avoid getting mineral spots and in an effort to add lubrication in the drying process was wondering about the feasibility of the following. Even if one is doing a traditional contact wash with shampoo, while the vehicle is still wet with the rinse water, mist the wet surface with a rinseless wash and then dry. That way one is not contaminating their good drying towels or wasting drying aids/etc, just to get some lubrication. Just would need to have a pump sprayer at the ready that contained the rinseless wash. Thoughts on this?

 

[Desertnate]

I think the only way your idea works is if you can keep the surface can stay wet the entire time and nothing dries. For my little car, it's pretty easy just about any time of year because I can get around it pretty quickly. For larger vehicles, like our mid-sized SUV, there is no way I can get around it without stuff drying on the surface unless it's late in the day or on a cool, heavily overcast day. There is a risk of the waterless wash drying on the surface.

Caveat: I have a driveway with no shade and there always seems to be a light wind blowing, so surfaces dry very quickly.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

Just would need to have a pump sprayer at the ready that contained the rinseless wash. Thoughts on this?

At that point why not just use the sprayer and do a rinseless wash? I'm about to pull the trigger on a battery garden sprayer for rinseless pre-spray...like I have been for months...I guess I have trigger finger paralysis.

 

[BLM]

At that point why not just use the sprayer and do a rinseless wash?

I'm a believer that there is a point where a vehicle is too dirty for a rinseless wash. For myself that point is usually November-April. Also the idea was not about cleaning the car but getting lubrication without damaging my drying towels by using them with drying aids. In essence the the rinseless is replacing the drying aid. Also much cheaper to cover a vehicle with rinseless than most drying aids.
Also do you suppose if the rinseless solution was made with DI water and you misted the car with it and it still happened to dry before one had a chance to towel dry it, do you suppose if you rewet the already rinseless sprayed areas with additional rinseless that would be sufficient to avoid getting mineral spots?

 

[raysaint]

So I guess I'll now ask this: for an Si02 spray that can be diluted in QD for drying, I need the Si02 that can be applied to a wet car.
Should I get an Si02 spray sealant, or Si02 quick detailer (which may not need dilution).
Any suggestions?

 

[raysaint]

With the more durable, high solids, coatings I've not noticed any difference in durability from adding a topper. If it is a cool, shady day and I can get the car dried without any water spots I don't even bother.

Yeah, manufacturers promote the durability of their ceramics, but push toppers on everyone. Kinda talking out of both sides of their mouth.

 

[Desertnate]

So I guess I'll now ask this: for an Si02 spray that can be diluted in QD for drying, I need the Si02 that can be applied to a wet car.
Should I get an Si02 spray sealant, or Si02 quick detailer (which may not need dilution).
Any suggestions?

I'll offer up a different possibility: A waterless wash concentrate with SiO2 that can be diluted to QD ratios.

My go-to is CarPro ECH2O. I've never actually used it as a waterless wash, but I've used it as a QD, a drying aid, and an exterior glass cleaner (not windshield).

The stuff comes highly concentrated, so a single bottle will mix up gallons at QD ratios and last a really long time.

 

[BLM]

What about using TEC 582 as a drying aid? I use it diluted 1:1 and it's a great sio2 detailer/drying aid. You can either spray it on your wet car and rinse it off or spray it on your wet car and dry it off with microfibers or a drying towel. I dry my car off then spray it on a microfiber pad, apply it to the paint, then buff off. You can use it every wash if you wish or wait for a few washes to apply it.

 

[Big DaveBig Dave is verified member.]

I'll offer up a different possibility: A waterless wash concentrate with SiO2 that can be diluted to QD ratios.

My go-to is CarPro ECH2O. I've never actually used it as an waterless wash, but I've used it as a QD, a drying aid, and an exterior glass cleaner (not windshield).

The stuff comes highly concentrated, so a single bottle will mix up gallons at QD ratios and last a really long time.

I'm a big fan of Ech2o too, I love it on glass as well, even the windshield, I tried ADS Amplify and it's great on the side and rear glass, but I got chattering from my wipers at the front, and because it's not a concentrate it's not as cost effective. I even use Ech2o on my shower screen. I did try diluting it to 200:1 as a glass cleaner but I didn't like it as much, I might add some more to make it 100:1 and test it again.

 

[Desertnate]

I've become a little sloppy in my ratio measurements with ECH2O. On my bottle they list QD as 20:1 and I found that to work OK, but it's still pretty thick. I think I'm down to somewhere around 40 or 50:1 maybe more. I've got a Sharpy mark on my spray bottle for the product which was measured at one point, but I always add extra water to thin it out to a point I think looks right.

One thing I've come to notice on my blue car is ECH2O tends to look a little better than Amplify, which I also use. The little bit of carnauba in the ECH2O adds depth on darker colors Amplify can't provide. I now use ECH20 on my blue car and the Amplify on our white pearl vehicle where Amplify's reflective gloss has the most benefit.

 

[raysaint]

A couple other threads on here said Ech2o needed a wipe down after drying, due to streaks. I don't want another step. And I don't put ceramic or any coating on glass, seems to reduce visibility at night in the rain.
The TEC had good reviews, as did ADS Amplify, and Sonax Ultra Slick. I try to get it down to 3 choices, read a bit more, and pull the ripcord.
I also still have some regular QD that I can use for dust, bird poo, etc.
Thanks for all your help.

 

[Desertnate]

A couple other threads on here said Ech2o needed a wipe down after drying, due to streaks. I don't want another step.

I've heard people say something about streaking, but I've not personally experienced it and I've been using the product routinely for 8~9 years in all temperatures. For me if it is a wipe on, walk away type effort. I wonder if those experiencing streaks apply it too heavily. A little goes a long way.

And I don't put ceramic or any coating on glass, seems to reduce visibility at night in the rain.

I don't use it on my windshield for the same reason, but on side/back windows it's great. The glass on our vehicles is fairly hydrophobic already, but it is nice to be doing a wipe down after a wash to remove water spots and not have to change products between the paint and the side/rear glass.

Good luck, all the options you list should serve you well.

 

[DFB]

A couple other threads on here said Ech2o needed a wipe down after drying, due to streaks. I don't want another step. And I don't put ceramic or any coating on glass, seems to reduce visibility at night in the rain.
The TEC had good reviews, as did ADS Amplify, and Sonax Ultra Slick. I try to get it down to 3 choices, read a bit more, and pull the ripcord.
I also still have some regular QD that I can use for dust, bird poo, etc.
Thanks for all your help.

If you want a simply mist and wipe with minimal towel work, then Amplify will be the best choice here. Nothing against TEC or ECH20 because they have their charms, but Amplify benefits from a more modern formula. It also won't built up like most Si02 spray products do, in turn causing streaks. Try not to overthink it.

 

[DFB]

I'm a believer that there is a point where a vehicle is too dirty for a rinseless wash. For myself that point is usually November-April. Also the idea was not about cleaning the car but getting lubrication without damaging my drying towels by using them with drying aids. In essence the the rinseless is replacing the drying aid. Also much cheaper to cover a vehicle with rinseless than most drying aids.
Also do you suppose if the rinseless solution was made with DI water and you misted the car with it and it still happened to dry before one had a chance to towel dry it, do you suppose if you rewet the already rinseless sprayed areas with additional rinseless that would be sufficient to avoid getting mineral spots?

I think the time spent going around misting the car with rinse-less, you'd probably have the car dried in the same time. Just blow the car down to remove excess standing water, grab a towel and finish it off.

 

[BLM]

I think the time spent going around misting the car with rinse-less, you'd probably have the car dried in the same time. Just blow the car down to remove excess standing water, grab a towel and finish it off.

I don't know about that. When washing in the sun, which is unavoidable at times, blowing off removes much of the water but not all of it. The remaining water dries very quickly. Quicker than i can get around my pickup with a drying towel thus leaving spots.

I may have concocted a solution for no spots when washing in the sun. Presoak with preferred solution, such as Bilt Hamber Touchless/etc. and rinse. Immediately after rinse spray entire car with rinseless. Then just go into a rinseless wash and dry in sections. By Immediately spraying the rinseless wash after rinseing the prewash should prevent the formation of water spots. If any of the sprayed rinseless dries before one gets to the rinseless contact by rewetting during the rinseless contact will remove all the dried rinseless.
The Bilt Hamber/Primus/ADS decon soap/etc. Presoak will do most of the heavy lifting. Any dirt remaining can easily be taken care of with the rinseless contact wash. One can even make the rinseless wash solution with distilled water if they wish.
With the warmer months approaching in the USA washing in the sun/heat can be an issue for the next 6 months. Last couple contact washes I've done I've had issues with rinse water drying too quickly and leaving water spots and we aren't even into the full on warm weather yet.
Often I am washing more than one car at a time. So even if I start the first car at 6:00 AM when the sun is very low., by the time I get to the second vehicle we are full on sun.
Having a DI system would solve any mineral spot issues. However I don't have such a system nor will I be getting any such system so I'll just have to find a way around.
So in theory the method above should avoid water spots, provide excellent lubrication for a drying towel and not make ones drying towels hydrophobic.

 

[raysaint]

If you want a simply mist and wipe with minimal towel work, then Amplify will be the best choice here. Nothing against TEC or ECH20 because they have their charms, but Amplify benefits from a more modern formula. It also won't built up like most Si02 spray products do, in turn causing streaks. Try not to overthink it.

Yes, provided you mean mist the car right after rinsing, then dry it. I don't want to dry it, then have to mist and dry again.
Thanks.