Drying with a DP Turbo Car Dryer

Centexhokie

Centexhokie

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I got a DP Turbo car dryer and used it this weekend on my car. The car has been recently, within a month, been coated with Getechniq Serum light so it beads water like crazy. In using the blower for the first time, it does a great job of getting the water out of the nooks and crannies, but it also seemed like it exploded the water beads into tiny droplets on the hood and trunk which left little tiny dots. I had to go back over the horizontal surfaces with a quick detailer to remove the little water spots. Before the dryer I would flood dry and then use waffle weaves to dry, but I thought this might be better to limit the touching. The car is my daily driver, but I wash it at least once a week and polish and correct it whenever needed. Any ideas? or suggestions?
 
That's kind of the way it is with a blower, I would always try to leave a little more water than I could, so it would be less likely to dry into spots before I dried it. One of the reasons why rinseless is becoming more popular...to not have these nagging drying issues.
 
I walk down the water as best as I can with the turbo dryer. I then use a griots pfm drying towel to pat dry the little lines that I missed on a coated vehicle. Most of the time I use the turbo dryer to knock down the big water so I can apply a spray wax, but I see where you would not want to do that with CSL applied.
 
I try to keep the nozzle angle to the paint shallow so you are herding the water off the paint rather than just blasting them into beads.
 
Bunky said:
I try to keep the nozzle angle to the paint shallow so you are herding the water off the paint rather than just blasting them into beads.
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Thanks I'll try that. I also will try the sweep nozzle on horizontal surfaces. I will say that blower does put out some force.
 
no matter what kind of blower you use it's going to leave some droplets behind. the best thing to do is use the flood/sheeting method to get rid of the majority of the water from the surface and then follow up with the dp turbo car dryer. i'm sure we all follow up with a qd/spray wax in conjunction with a microfiber towel anyways which will catch the remaining water left behind. the dp/mckee's turbo car dryer is a great product!
 
Centexhokie said:
I got a DP Turbo car dryer and used it this weekend on my car. The car has been recently, within a month, been coated with Getechniq Serum light so it beads water like crazy. In using the blower for the first time, it does a great job of getting the water out of the nooks and crannies, but it also seemed like it exploded the water beads into tiny droplets on the hood and trunk which left little tiny dots. I had to go back over the horizontal surfaces with a quick detailer to remove the little water spots. Before the dryer I would flood dry and then use waffle weaves to dry, but I thought this might be better to limit the touching. The car is my daily driver, but I wash it at least once a week and polish and correct it whenever needed. Any ideas? or suggestions?
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Does Crystal Serum Light leave the surface slick or grabby?

I've only experienced what you described with waxes/coatings/sealants that do not leave the surface slick (initially or a weeks after being applied). It's common for the slickness to diminish over time for virtually every product on the market, coating or not.

If the slickness is gone, consider using some type of (compatible) "booster" product (ie: detail spray, etc). Check with the manufacturer (or a reputable detailer that's familiar with CSL) to see what they would recommend.
 
Nick@McKees37 said:
Does Crystal Serum Light leave the surface slick or grabby?

I've only experienced what you described with waxes/coatings/sealants that do not leave the surface slick (initially or a weeks after being applied). It's common for the slickness to diminish over time for virtually every product on the market, coating or not.

If the slickness is gone, consider using some type of (compatible) "booster" product (ie: detail spray, etc). Check with the manufacturer (or a reputable detailer that's familiar with CSL) to see what they would recommend.
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It's slick and only about a month old. Most of the water rolls off, but like I said, some of it turns to very small beads that dry on the surface. Looked like some areas were dotted with ink pin size dots. It's not a coating problem. Could be an operator problem and that is what I am trying to determine :)
 
I had the same experience at first when I got mine. Kind of like what the heck?

Now I just try to flow as much off as possible and concentrate on the water holder areas.
I can get by with one 16 x 16 eagle edgeless with Opti-Seal spritzes to dry after air drying.
 
Nick,

Any chance to get a shorter hose for the DP Turbo Car dryer? It's so long, no matter how I wrap it around myself I find I'm bumping the car with the hose or dragging it on the ground. You have to have the nozzle within a couple inches of the paint to be effective and the super long hose is the only bad part of the tool. I'd happily pay for a shorter hose. Thanks!
 
gspam1 said:
Nick,

Any chance to get a shorter hose for the DP Turbo Car dryer? It's so long, no matter how I wrap it around myself I find I'm bumping the car with the hose or dragging it on the ground. You have to have the nozzle within a couple inches of the paint to be effective and the super long hose is the only bad part of the tool. I'd happily pay for a shorter hose. Thanks!
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I want the exact opposite because of the noise. I would like to get the blower portion further from me while I am drying the car and the strap seems to be an afterthought.
 
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