Dual Action Polisher: Wool Vs Microfiber?

With a traditional DA, MF is more agressive.
With rotary, wool is more agressive.

Edit: Have not used the Carpro Wool Pad.
 
SonOfOC said:
With a traditional DA, MF is more agressive.
With rotary, wool is more agressive.

Edit: Have not used the Carpro Wool Pad.
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yeah that's the curve ball because apparently the wool pad was designed for the DA...
 
I will have to get some to try out on my next order along with some 101
 
Anyone got info on the Optimum and Surbuf MF pads?
I am searching for a cutting pad that is able to leave a LSP ready finish....
 
What's wrong with adding more 105 for lubricant and/or shrinking the work area down to accomplish this? Both will allow you to work an area longer.

TuscaroraDave made this suggestion to me with some rotary work I was doing and it worked flawlessly. Can't see why it wouldn't work for a DA as well.

2old2change has also suggested that M100 works well in his experience with a DA and adds more working time. You might try that.

Either way, for what Dave suggested to me, on the project I was working on...I went from a 2'x2' area to 10"x10". Not suggesting you to go that small, but play around with it, shrink your work area a bit and see what happens.
 
Hoytman said:
What's wrong with adding more 105 for lubricant and/or shrinking the work area down to accomplish this? Both will allow you to work an area longer.

TuscaroraDave made this suggestion to me with some rotary work I was doing and it worked flawlessly. Can't see why it wouldn't work for a DA as well.

2old2change has also suggested that M100 works well in his experience with a DA and adds more working time. You might try that.

Either way, for what Dave suggested to me, on the project I was working on...I went from a 2'x2' area to 10"x10". Not suggesting you to go that small, but play around with it, shrink your work area a bit and see what happens.
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My area is already shrunk down to a 6" by 6" area and M100 didn't provide enough cut. In fact, it was less cut than offered by M105 imo, albeit I only tried it a few times so I'm not a hundred percent convinced on that as it is quite possible that it was just my fault.
 
I wouldn't be afraid then to keep using 105, and add a few drops of M100, or a few drops of D300. I've heard of lots of guys having success by mixing. I know what the manufacturers say, but lots of people experiment and it certainly won't hurt any to do so. You might even be able to increase the amount of product and the work area at once. That's a win, win.

I'm just trying to think of alternatives for you.
 
You must be using a 3inch pad to have a work area that small...J/K.

My work area was shrunk so small on that particular project because of extreme oxidation. Without getting liberal with product, shrinking the work area alone would not have worked.

Seriously though, 6"x6"? What size pad? You can't be using enough product in my estimation. M105 dries fast enough using foam. I've never tried it with micro-fiber, but if it's anything like it is on wool it's gone if you breathe wrong...depending on the paint.
 
Hoytman said:
You must be using a 3inch pad to have a work area that small...J/K.

My work area was shrunk so small on that particular project because of extreme oxidation. Without getting liberal with product, shrinking the work area alone would not have worked.

Seriously though, 6"x6"? What size pad? You can't be using enough product in my estimation. M105 dries fast enough using foam. I've never tried it with micro-fiber, but if it's anything like it is on wool it's gone if you breathe wrong...depending on the paint.
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I'm chasing a single scratch in this one small area of my hood... I can't even manage to get the scratch in a picture, but it mocks me in the daylight!

And I appreciate all the alternatives and help you are offering. I am open to anything :)

I have some M101 coming in which I will try out, but I was wondering about the wool as a fail-safe
 
As long as you don't think you'll go through the clear, it's okay to nibble at it a little at a time. Get too much cut with a little too much ambition and you could create yourself a bigger issue.

Good luck!
 
Just to chime in...

Generally speaking, fiber pads of any type offer the potential for a more aggressive cutting action because the individual fibers themselves are a type of abrasive when moved over a scratch-sensitive surface like automotive clear coat paints.

I share this in all my classes because it's some pretty basic information.


Of course the product, that is the compound, polish or even cleaner/wax you use will highly affect the aggressiveness or NON-aggressiveness of any pad.


For the same reason any type of fiber pad can offer more aggressiveness it's also the reason why it won't finish out as nice as foam on a wide spectrum of paint systems.


That's why I'm still in the camp that foam pads finish out nicer than fiber pads, at least finish out more consistently on the widest spectrum of paints where fiber pads are limited to primarily just harder paints. At least at this time. Technology is always changing so be open to change.


:)
 
if you're chasing a scratch, why not try a little trizact 3000 or 2000 wet and then move on to a compound with foam?
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Just to chime in...

Generally speaking, fiber pads of any type offer the potential for a more aggressive cutting action because the individual fibers themselves are a type of abrasive when moved over a scratch-sensitive surface like automotive clear coat paints.

I share this in all my classes because it's some pretty basic information.


Of course the product, that is the compound, polish or even cleaner/wax you use will highly affect the aggressiveness or NON-aggressiveness of any pad.


For the same reason any type of fiber pad can offer more aggressiveness it's also the reason why it won't finish out as nice as foam on a wide spectrum of paint systems.


That's why I'm still in the camp that foam pads finish out nicer than fiber pads, at least finish out more consistently on the widest spectrum of paints where fiber pads are limited to primarily just harder paints. At least at this time. Technology is always changing so be open to change.


:)
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Thank you Mike for your response. I do understand that microfiber cuts more than foam but I was wondering if you knew if microfiber cuts more than the carpro wool pad (which is designed for DA) or vice versa?

I've been told by a few people that microfiber pads will cut more than the wool pad, and would like to confirm that with various sources :)
 
Hoytman said:
As long as you don't think you'll go through the clear, it's okay to nibble at it a little at a time. Get too much cut with a little too much ambition and you could create yourself a bigger issue.

Good luck!
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Thank you :) That's what I think I am doing, just attacking it a little at a time.

y8s said:
if you're chasing a scratch, why not try a little trizact 3000 or 2000 wet and then move on to a compound with foam?
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That will be my last resort :)
 
ihaveacamaro said:
Thank you Mike for your response. I do understand that microfiber cuts more than foam but I was wondering if you knew if microfiber cuts more than the carpro wool pad (which is designed for DA) or vice versa?
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I haven't used them so I don't have a comment yet.

I was just saying in general, fiber pads of any type have the potential to cut more than foam pads of any type.


IF the fiber length is short that's a plus for use with a non-forced rotation DA Polisher. If it's long, the fibers will tend to just wiggle a lot and dissipate the oscillating/rotating power coming out of the too.

Somewhere Todd Helme penned just the right words to explain the issue and the action of long fiber pads used on DA Polishers, check with him as he knows where that article would be.

Words mean things and finding and using just the right word to explain an "action" can be very helpful in aiding people to understand the topic at hand.


:)
 
I have some Cool Wool Hybrid on my way, and I'll be able to put it against some Meg's MF Cutting Pad... I'll let you know when I do it.... there's still very little info on these pads... but if I did get it right... it's just nothing like a conventional wool pads...
 
That must be some concrete paint if 6 passes with 105 and MF pad doesn't remove > 95% of the defects. I've never had to do 6 passes with 105 and I've worked on the worst of the worst. I would recommend changing up your technique / applied pressure and see how it turns out. Personally, if something won't come out after 6 passes, I won't bother with it unless it's a show car.
 
RZJZA80 said:
That must be some concrete paint if 6 passes with 105 and MF pad doesn't remove > 95% of the defects. I've never had to do 6 passes with 105 and I've worked on the worst of the worst. I would recommend changing up your technique / applied pressure and see how it turns out. Personally, if something won't come out after 6 passes, I won't bother with it unless it's a show car.
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Actually I faced something like that early this year. It was a repaint job on some panels of a black honda civic.....

But to give you an idea some D300 (which is not very far from M105) + MF cutting pads from Meg's on a G110v2 barely made some swirls disappear....
So I went the brute force route..... a trunk and a good amount of weight over it... I only left the pad rotating about .75 turn per second on speed 6... some good 1 minute over each section and I made to correct swirls, destroy the pad and level the paint like I was sanding.
Now I have some M101 + Cool Wool Hybrid pads hoping it won't need to get to that point again... or even to rely on a rotary.... because sometimes I can't bring my rotary with me.
 
DaC said:
I have some Cool Wool Hybrid on my way, and I'll be able to put it against some Meg's MF Cutting Pad... I'll let you know when I do it.... there's still very little info on these pads... but if I did get it right... it's just nothing like a conventional wool pads...
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Thanks, I can't wait for your comparison :props:
 
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