Dupont coating removal

[Kody]

Hey guys,

I have been trying to correct the paint on my 2012 boss with some very mixed results!

It would seem that the dealership had my car coated with some dupont coating that is put on to protect the paint but it was put on horribly and is causing all sorts of hazing problems as well as making the correction process very difficult.

I have tried a wash with dawn soap, claying, straight 70% IPA wipe down, and then got tired of messing with it and just went at it with my flex VRG and M105!

It comes off with compounding but in some spots it is really thick and you have hit it again, and it is really slowing down the paint correcting.

What would you guys do to remove this stuff so I'm not wasting so much product having to do multiple passes where I should only be doing one normally?


Thanks
Kody

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

What would you guys do to remove this stuff so I'm not wasting so much product having to do multiple passes where I should only be doing one normally?

IF this "coating" is really coming off hard, then the first thing I would do is contact either the dealership that applied it or DuPont and ask them what "their" recommended procedure is for removing it so you don't screw up the precious, and thin factory clear coat underneath and end up having to have the car repainted.

There must be documentation on how to remove a DuPont product. They have been around for a long time and that would be a normal protocol they would have in place for a paint coating.

At least one would think...

 

[Setec Astronomy]

I'm unaware of any dealer-applied paint protection that is anything more than (at best) simply a good sealant. If DuPont was making a coating, I'm reasonably sure we would have heard about it here at the forum.

Are you sure you are not having problems with the M105 drying and creating residue? Are you using a machine, what pads are you using and how much experience do you have doing paint correction?

 

[Kody]

Well that's the thing, I've asked around about this coating and nobody really knows what it is. The best answer I've come across is it is a teflon coating.

If it has been put on "right" (I guess you could say) with a normal pass of M105 it will remove it plus get the paint 95% corrected, but there are just some spots that are really thick (you can see the imprint of the pad they used to put it on in it) and then you have to go over it again and it usually leaves imperfection underneath it.


Thanks
Kody

 

[Kody]

I'm unaware of any dealer-applied paint protection that is anything more than (at best) simply a good sealant. If DuPont was making a coating, I'm reasonably sure we would have heard about it here at the forum.

Are you sure you are not having problems with the M105 drying and creating residue? Are you using a machine, what pads are you using and how much experience do you have doing paint correction?

Ok long story short, I'm 21 and was buying a 2012 boss 302 all I heard when he was telling me about said coating was blah blah blah blah coating blah blah, if ya know what I mean lol!


This is my first time using M105 and I only had one instance where I missed a spot while wiping the panel down and it dried, so I know what it looks like dried, There is one spot that the coating is really bad and it looks nothing like dried compound. I thought the same at first.

As far as pads, I'm limited right now to Adams pads and I have been using there orange pad with M105.

And as far experience, I'm very confident in my abilities (that sounds very arrogant but you catch my drift).


Thanks
Kody

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Ok long story short, I'm 21 and was buying a 2012 boss 302 all I heard when he was telling me about said coating was blah blah blah blah coating blah blah, if ya know what I mean lol!

Sounds about right... they get you into their little cubicle and start up-selling, that's the only place dealerships make any real money is the add-ons.

As far as pads, I'm limited right now to Adams pads and I have been using there orange pad with M105.

I think these are fairly large and thick, the opposite of what you want in a foam pad for a DA Polisher. Next time you re-stock, get some 5.5" thin pads, either LC Flat, LC Hydro or LC CCS, these are all 7/8" thin.


M105 abrades the surface so if you're getting most of it off when buffing just keep buffing and you'll get it all off.

You could also try working the more stubborn areas by hand with a piece of terry cloth. You can exert a LOT of pressure with a couple of fingers and your arm/shoulder/back muscles.

 

[BobbyG]

Kody,

What ever they put on needs to come off so.

Are you using a machine or attempting this by hand?

An orange foam pad is OK to use with Meguiar's M105 but keep in mind it cuts and dries quickly.

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish are available over the counter and work really well. Both have longer working times allowing you to perform the task at hand.

If there is residue left on the panel mix up some soapy water and washed it off.

 

[Kody]

Sounds about right... they get you into their little cubicle and start up-selling, that's the only place dealerships make any real money is the add-ons.







I think these are fairly large and thick, the opposite of what you want in a foam pad for a DA Polisher. Next time you re-stock, get some 5.5" thin pads, either LC Flat, LC Hydro or LC CCS, these are all 7/8" thin.


M105 abrades the surface so if you're getting most of it off when buffing just keep buffing and you'll get it all off.

I might just order some better pads for correcting this car.

90% of the time it comes off no problem first pass, it's just frustrating to do a close inspection of the paint and go from paint that is 95% perfect to this big hazy and nasty spot!


Thanks
Kody